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Metalshaping Advice Needed

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by jragain, Feb 10, 2009.

  1. Feb 10, 2009
    jragain

    jragain Member

    Billings, Montana
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2008
    Messages:
    91
    I know this is difficult without a picture, but I'm going to try anyway. I recently welded a piece of 18 guage into the front of my driver's side wheelhouse (I "undid" my Boyink wheelhouse notch). Despite my efforts to keep the heat down, I ended up with a bulge in the front of the wheelhouse above my patch. The bulge is probably 3/8" and bulges in toward the front of the jeep. I know noone will see it once the seat is in, my Obsessive Compulsive personality requires that I try and fix it.

    I'm assuming from what I've read that the deformation has come from shrinking around the weld zone. My question is this: do I first start with a hammer and dolly to stretch the metal around the weld zone, or do I just attack the bulged area directly? Thanks.
     
  2. Feb 10, 2009
    Colorado_Baja

    Colorado_Baja JEEPS!!

    Fort...
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2006
    Messages:
    304
    A picture is defiantly worth 1000 words in this situation.

    Anyway you can snap a quick one?
     
  3. Feb 10, 2009
    jragain

    jragain Member

    Billings, Montana
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2008
    Messages:
    91
    I'll post a pic tonite.
     
  4. Feb 10, 2009
    $ sink

    $ sink Gazillians of posts

    Virginia Bch
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2004
    Messages:
    1,373
    got a torch and a shrinking hammer?
     
  5. Feb 10, 2009
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
    Messages:
    8,126
    Method 1-Hammer & dolly, start at along the circumference & work your way in.

    Method 2- Knock the bulge back the other way & shrink it down using a propane torch & wet cloth. Again working along the circumference & in towards the middle heat the metal till it just starts turning blue then slap the wet cloth on it. Do in patches a couple of inches square.

    http://allshops.org/

    H.
     
  6. Feb 11, 2009
    mknittle

    mknittle jeep addict

    auburn ca
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2006
    Messages:
    24
    BULTACO? Did sombody say BULTACO? I havent seen one of those for quite a while.I once had a 69'Matador 250 and my cousin had a Pursang 250. I rememder going to the fairgrounds to the flattrack races and thinking how cool the bultaco astros looked !I still have an old thumbs up cas cap that I am going to put on a plack on a wall. .
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2009
  7. Feb 11, 2009
    mknittle

    mknittle jeep addict

    auburn ca
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2006
    Messages:
    24
    If you use a (Smooth)hammer/dolly combo don't place the dolly right under the spot you want to lower(hammer on as it is called) Unless It is a shrinking dolly(Has teeth sort of like a meat tenterising hammer)! Because if you strike your work between two smooth objects it can stretch the metal (That is how an English Wheel works) and you get a bigger problem! If you have a low spot next to a high spot you can place the(smooth) dolly on one dent and the hammer on the other (hammer off)
    With a shrinking hammer use a smooth dolly or shrinking dolly use smooth hammer;The dolly is placed on the concave side of the dent and the hammer on method is used.

    Shrinking useing heat is harder. To much and you get more warpage; if you use this method heat a small area( about thumbnail size) to where it just starts to get red then cool it on the on the concave side with a wet rag.
    be carefull if it gets too hot and is cooled too fast it can harden the metal! experiment on a peice of scrap first.
     
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