Buzzbox T.I.G. Welding 101

No. You would still have to scratch start the arc, so, there'd be no advantage to it

With a high end tig welding machine, the foot pedal DOES also turn the current to the torch on, and off, as well as regulate the welding current. These machines don't require a scratch start, because they have a built-in high frequency feature. When NOT welding aluminum (which requires continuous high frequency), the machine can be set to just "start" with the high frequency feature. What this does is, when the pedal is depressed, is to "throw" the spark from the tip of the tungsten to the workpiece, striking the arc.Then the hi freq. automatically shuts itself off, and you can continue with your weld. Really extends the life of the tungsten, too. Pretty nice.

 

Tomorrow...I promise.

 

Very nice...now I have something to look for at the flea market

 

I have an old Linde that should be perfect for this.

And the welds are impressive.............

 

Cool and thanks. I've been playing around with doing that with my Lincoln Buzz Box, I bought it for thicker capacity. It's AC/DC. Now, I was reading on the HAMB that scratch start is only capable for stainless? I may be wrong thought.

 

You can scratch start any metal that is weldable with this setup ( steel, stainless, copper, chrome moly, maybe more). Just can't do aluminum with this setup.

 

The next project, using no filler rod, will be to fuse together an outside corner joint. The proper fitup of a corner joint is called "cabinet corner". This means that the inside edges of the pieces of metal touch each other, like this:



The tacked together pieces look like this:



Now, we're ready to weld. For 16 gauge try about 30-35 amps.Start at one end, and move forward while weaving, side-to-side, bridging the joint. The finished piece looks like these:





I did 3 samples, of different thicknesses ( or THINNESSES, in this case!), because some guys requested to see them. This "no filler rod" method works well for 18-14 gauge.Thicker material ,with the same cabinet corner fitup, should have filler rod used on it. We'll get to that at a later date.


Here are the pieces wire wheeled:





LET ME STATE THIS:
I welded these with my high end tig welder. I only set up the buzzbox as a tig welder, to provide you guys with pics of how to do it. I have since disassembled it. Any welding that I demonstrate for you from now on, will be done on my Thermal Dynamics welder.

I would have been able to weld the 16 and 18 gauge with the buzzbox tig, but not the 20 gauge. That is a real challenge with any machine!

Here's why: It takes about 25 amps to strike an arc. It takes about 10 amps to weld 20 gauge. A buzzbox cannot go that low. You'd disentigrate the piece of 20 gauge! My TD (Thermal Dynamics) welder will go as low as 5 amps. When I step on the foot pedal to start welding, it takes 25 amps to strike an arc, but as soon as it does, I immediately let up on the pedal, which reduces the amperage, allowing me to weld.


For years, I did a lot of portable repair/modification work in restaurant kitchens. Mostly all 14,16,and 18 gauge stainless steel. My little buzzbox tig with the scratch start was all I used. It's paid for itself hundreds of times over!

 

Are you pushing that weld?? Holding the torch like a pencil I'm guessing you would "write" right to left? I've never seen anyone TIG weld or know anyone with one.. So this thread is a great start....

 

Was just wondering because i inherated an old AC/DC Lincoln BuzzBox. Thought of converting it because i do alot of aluminum work and it would be so much more portable than my Lincoln Squarewave125.

 

Wow you are a good welder. I just started learning to T.I.G. weld and it is fun and not as hard as I thought. I had someone who welds and fabricates for a living show me the basics, then I went to town. I have been welding 316 stainless steel with either a lincoln idealarc 250 or a miller maxstar 150 with the leads switched so my polarity is reversed. I can weld flat stuff and pipe fairly well now. All I can say is it takes lots of practice to get really good at it. Oh and I have been trying to "walk the cup" lately and it takes a little getting used to. I also have varied my hand hold position while welding. I also am using a flexible neck torch. It is an air cooled unit and I can't remember the brand but it is like a weldcraft unit w/ a max amperage of 125amps.

 

That's right. Whenever possible, you want to "push" the torch. This method keeps the argon gas at, and ahead of the weld, to clear the way.

 

Portable, meaning around your shop, or going on the road with it? If you take it on the road, the places you go to will have to have an appropiate electrical outlet.

Like I said before, stop by, or call a welding supply house, and tell them what you want to do.

 

rixcj,
Walking the cup as far as I can tell is the way you are supposed to T.I.G. weld. It looks like a figure eight when you are done. You almost do a crab walk with the gas cup. I also have just started to get the hang of heat an speed while welding because it is that gold color when done and I don't really need to wire wheel it up that much. It could be just pure luck though. R)

 

Oh, I get it..that method gives each weave of the weld some extra gas, to cool, and protect it from oxidating. It is a slow process.

When I welded nuclear pipe, years ago, we got those results, because it was so critical. We never had a name for it, though. Most of the tigging in my shop now, is not THAT critical, so I move right along, still get a very good weld, then wire brush it. It's all in the essence of time!

 

I am digging up an old thread, but can someone instruct me as to what a buzzbox is? Maybe a linky to harbor freight or somewhere else? Thanks.

 

A Buzz Box is basically a stick welder. A basic one here at Harbor Freight but it won't work for what's being talked about on this thread. Hope that helps.

 

This is a buzzbox...

http://search.msn.com/products/?q=l...E4817B389C61783CC9B9"]&wf=Commerce&FORM=HBRE2

Some of these only have AC output. Those types cannot be used for the type of TIG welding described in this thread.

The one shown in the link has AC/DC output. That is the correct one needed for TIG welding.

Rich

 

I realize this is a dusty old thread but i have to revive it! LOL!

I just picked up a lincoln Hi-freq box(K799) could that be used with my AC-225 buzzbox/tombstone? Or do I need to find a straight DC box?

Looking to learn to tig weld Chrome-moly tubing!

Any suggestions would be welcome!