Distributor Decisions

I've got a 55 CJ-5 with what I believe is an L-134 (flat head 4 cylinder). I drive it quite a bit on my hunting lease and maybe put 50-100 miles per year on it. When it's been running for about an hour it will start cutting out like it's out of fuel and just die. Usually it starts back up and moves about ten feet before dying again. If I let it sit about an hour and prime... it normally it starts right back up and drives fine for (about an hour). Over the last three years or so I've done the following:
1. Tune up (includes new plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, coil, rotor bug, condensor)
2. New exhaust system
3. New fuel pump (replacement of original equipment)
4. New metal fuel lines most of the way from the tank to the fuel pump
5. New rubber line from the fuel filter to the carb
6. Fuel filter between the fuel tank and the fuel pump
7. Carburetor rebuilt
8. The fuel tank was leaking the last time I drove it and I took it out and had the hole welded. Dumped all the dried rust out of it. When I get a chance I'll buy a new tank.

The last time it did the stall out thing I disconnected the fuel line from the carb and turned it over. I got fuel but it was a pulsing action so I'm guessing electrical problems.

It's been suggested that the old factory distributor may be the cause. I turned the switch on and with the distributor cap off pressed against the rotor bug. I started hearing spark from the points and thought that the bug moved. I'm guessing that bushings on the distributor are shot.
1. Can I purchase just the bushings? Is that a good idea?
2. Should I bite the bullet and replace the distributor with the factory replacement?
3. Should I just go the whole hog and replace the distributor with one of the new fancy ones (Pertronix??)?

All opinions welcome.

 

vapor lock?

 

sounds like distributor or coil to me..

 

I haven't replaced the distributor yet. Just the normal stuff (cap, points, condensor, rotor bug (what's the real name?)).

Can you just replace the bushings or is it better just to replace the whole distributor?

 

If you are going to replace the distributor, now would be a good time to decide whether to keep the points or go to an electronic distributor. I know Walck's carries both:

points:
http://www.walcks4wd.com/product.aspx?pid=1635

electronic:
http://www.walcks4wd.com/product.aspx?pid=1636

 

Lets see... $120 for points ....$140 for electronic hmmmm

Pardon my ignorance. What else do I need for the electronic setup? New wires, plugs, coil, ?????

 

You don't need to get anything else for the electronic distributor, but it's always a good idea to get new wires/plugs, etc, if it hadn't been done in a while.

 

Thanks a lot everyone. It sounds like I'm going electronic. There's just not that much of a price difference and it's one less thing to worry about.

I changed the plugs and wires about a year ago and I don't drive it much so I won't change that to start with.


So if I'm supposed to "open up the plug gap" what setting should I use?


Time to pull out the timing light. Then the

 

Whatever distributor you get, make sure it matches your existing distributor. My new distributor was off by 180 degrees, not a problem, I just had to change the plug wires, but it's good to know before going it. Saves alot of debug time.

 

Are you sure you have the L-head and not an F-head? I didn't think that any of the CJ5's came with the flat head in them.

What it sounds like is you have an electrical connection that becomes loose when it heats up, and connects again when it cools off. You might consider replacing the ignition wiring itself. Or the switch maybe.

One of my cars that I had when in the navy had a switch that would loose contact while running down the road. Wiggle the key and boom! running again. Replaced the switch and the problem went away.

 

I'm pretty sure it's an L Head. Sorry about the pic but it's the only one that I could come up with on short notice and the Jeep is 2.5 hours away.

As far as the wiring goes... When I got the jeep the PO had stripped ALL the wiring and cables. It just had enough wiring to get it running. I've since replaced ALL the wiring. I'm pretty sure the stalling problem is not that but I've been wrong before. When it stalls I've still got voltage to the coil and points. ...and if I just leave it sitting for a while it cranks right up. So I'd guess it's the play in the distributor bushings. When the bushings get warm enough the points won't be opened/closed at the right times so it just quits. ...or at least that's my current theory.

 

Yep, that's an L-head. Does it happen on a cold day? I still wouldn't rule out vapor lock. The exhaust goes right by the fuel line, and I used to get vapor lock on a hot day. I solved it with an electric fuel pump, mounted back by the fuel tank that I only turn on when vapor lock occurs, I also put a heat shield on the exhaust pipe as it goes by the fuel line. (I only see this when I am running above 5000 feet on a hot day)

 

I kind of figured it was an L head. It might have been swapped by the PO. They were supposed to have rebuilt the motor and transmission. If they did it like they did the wiring I'm surprised that it lasted this long.

Usually I don't drive it very far on cold days. Heck, I don't usually drive it very far normally. As I said the jeep sits on my hunting lease (1/2 section). I can get most places on it in under 10 minutes. The problem usually occurs when I have left something back at camp and have to make a couple round trips to the deer stands. Then when I am half way back to the deer stand it stalls and dies. It also happens when I'm filling the deer feeders. I'm usually only at the feeders for a little while before moving to the next one. The jeep gets warm and will just quit.

I replaced all the fuel line except two short pieces (under 4 inches) coming out of the fuel pump. I have a steel line that goes from the factory tank (under the seat (is that an ejector seat??)) to the driver's frame, follows it to the engine compartment where it goes into rubber line, fuel filter, then the one year old fuel pump. From the fuel pump it's metal line to the carb (rebuilt a year or two ago (remember I don't drive it much)). The line is probably over a foot or more from the exhaust pipe most of the time.

Straighten me out.. if it is vapor lock I SHOULD be able to put fuel direct into the carb and it will start and run until the fuel is gone? Sometimes it will start but lately it just spins over. If I pull the fuel line at the carb I'll get fuel but not a steady stream. My understanding of vapor lock is that the pump wouldn't pump because the pump can't push the vapors through.

Maybe take an old gas can and run some rubber line to the carb the next time this happens (this weekend?)? If it starts and runs it's vapor lock, if not????

 

After it dies, have you checked for spark at the plugs when trying to restart?

 

Not at the plug. I'm getting voltage at the coil. I had assumed that I'm getting spark at the plug but since I changed the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs about a year ago.... ...and it would have been running five minutes before.

I'll check. I'm supposed to be up there this weekend. ...unless the boss at home stops me.