11" Drums, right front locks

So here is a little background, when I got the commando it had a leaky MC, I noticed that it pulled to the right when brakes were applied. Changed out the MC and bled the brakes. Now that I have proper pedal pressure its extra scary, the right front is always the first to lock.
I did one test from about 35 on hard packed dirt and it almost sucked me right off the road.. So now I only do the test from about 15mph.
I consulted the FSM and here are the things that I have done/adjusted to try and correct the pull.
Checked the shoes and drums on both front wheels.
Checked the brake springs/adj cable and what not
Adjusted the tire pressure all around from 35psi to 24 front and 28 rear.
Checked wheel bearings, tie rod ends, steering assembly pretty much every thing that I can think of..

What am I missing?

Greg

 

When you bled the brake did you get good flow from the other wheel cylinders? Possible blockages? I'm assuming that the brakes are all adjusted up about the same?

 

We were having all kinds of trouble getting all the air out of the rear but the front were quick and easy. I finally tried the gravity method on the rear.
I adjusted the front when I inspected them. Could mis adjusted rears lead to this?

 

Misadjusted rear won't cause just the right front to lock up. Pull the drum and check the wheel cylinder plungers. Make sure they both move freely. If not, you have a stuck piston in the cylinder causing the problem. What commonly happens is one piston will stick so the other piston receives all the pressure. This causes the piston to slam the brake shoe out too fast against the drum causing the brakes to lock up. Check it and let us know what you find..... Nickmil

 

That makes sense. Ill check that out later tonight.

Thanks for the reply's.
Greg

 

Have a buddy press on the brakes while you have your hand on the jacked up rotating left front wheel, can you feel the brakes move? Wheel cylinders will still bleed good when the pistons are rusted in place. Check that lt front WC.

 

The rear piston on that right front is sluggish to come out, so I have a new wheel cylinder on order.

Good call fellas!

 

You Know, it sounds like you should just invest in four wheel cylinders and a quart of brake fluid, and be be done with it.

 

The brake components look fairly new, the rubber on the wheel cyl boots is newer. Ill just replace the one for now..

 

Got a chance to change out that cylinder today and it still grabs on that side.

What else could it be? Blocked line?

 

Could be but I'd be more inclined to think if it's grabbing on the right it's because the left isn't working properly. Might also want to check the shoes are installed correctly on both sides, short shoe on the front, long shoe on the rear.

 

Thanks for the info ill check out the other drum, I also dident know that the shoes were front/back specific ill check that out as well.

 

Here's a picture of the shoes installed. This is on the rear diff, disregard the equalizer bar for the emergency brakes, but the front are the same.

 

Also check and make sure no oil/grease contamination on the shoes and make sure someone didn't install both short shoes on one side and both long shoes on the other. Also make sure the adjustment is equal on both sides....

 

I checked out the driver side, and the pistons in that cylinder don't move very freely, so I'm going to throw another $10 at it in the form of another wheel cylinder and hope it fixes it. The true Jeep way

 

Ditto on checking the shoes for oil or fluid contamination. Most brake shoes soak up brake fluid from leaking wheel cylinders and swell. This can cause serious lockup for the first few stops. Sounds odd, I know but thats what happens.

 

The shoes are good, that was one of the first things I checked..

 

updates?