Axle question(s)

All,

I swapped out the D25/41 for a D27/44. If the 27 does bomb itself, since Andrew mentioned a chip in the R&P I'll look into regearing a D30.
Anywho, a while back, I wasn't sure if you all were joking about the 5.38's being rare in either axles, but it seemed to be true, both mine have them. Is that possible? Or did I just make a fool out of myself.

Now, here's my "tech" question. I'm keeping these 2 axles as spares. I'd like to store them, either outside, or under my workbench, but have heard the horror stories of the water in them. The seals should in theory be good still, but should I just pump them full of oil and then store them to protect them? Or just go with how much was in them when I pulled them (proper amount, I got excited thinking my 41 had a locker and tore the cover off, only to find a carrier )

And this may be "cross posting" but it's the same issue. I pulled the whaddamacallet? Drive yoke? off the 27 as it was the wrong size, put the right one on, tightened it down, and it's back. While it was off I picked up the front to do something? And all the oil came out. Did I destroy my seal? I didn't see any cardboard come out when it happened.

Last but not least, re installing my pinion nut it was rough but got on there, now the pinion threads look weak. Did I just dig a deeper hole?
Thanks!

 

Wherever you store them, keep them covered. In a dry shed would be ok, but indoors preferential. You won't get anything in them that way.

5.38's are very common in D25 but they were not seen so much in the 60's when the D27 was standard. They were the optional gear for the F head at that point and not the standard gear from what I understand. You should have Bendix or Rzeppa joints in the D25 and the u-joint style in the D27.

Most likely the seal was hard already. The get that way pretty quickly. I would put a new seal on and get a new pinion nut. The nut should be quite a bit softer than the pinion so there should be no damage to the male threads. I did a gear set in a Dodge truck and it was made with a burr on the pinion. Everytime I ran the nut down, it tore the heck out of it. I think it took 4 nuts to finally get pinion depth set.

The pinion nut should be torqued on the Dana axles, so look that up in the book.

 

I missed any earlier converstations. Why are you swapping out the stock axles. You are leaving the L-Head correct? If so you wont have any problems from the stock axles.

 

Well my 41 had 5.38's so the 25 must match since it shifted fine and didn't override so that's interesting. I did jack up the front on without the yoke out of ignorance, and it drained. Putting the yoke back on, the pinion seemed to get boogered even though it went on fine. The R&P is chipped so I suppose I'll change to a NTD30 later on, and just regear it.
Storage, it will be inside then, the garage is heated/cooled to an extent...
How much oil does it take if I may ask? Does the oil go into the tubes then? Since it turns out I never learned it...
But anyway the price was right on these 2 axles with fresh 10"breaks vs the 9" breaks that were worn, and it's parts avaiblity, so it was worth it.
How does on replace a seal? the search engine?
I am keeping the L-Head, though I'd like someone to maybe PM me with why I need to keep the L134 instead of using a 225? Thanks!!

 

yes the stock axles well be 5.38:1 you dont start seeing anyother ratios until the cj5 comes out. The L-head will go anywhere you want it to without breaking parts.

 

These are CJ5 axles for my flattie though, I'm happy with them
Thanks

 

Some flatties had 4.88's also......
Dad's had them with stock 25 front and 23-2 rear and have seen lots of others with them too. 5.38 is probably the most common though. Nickmil

 

Only mb's and gpw's had the 4.88

 

I suppose someone could have put them in back in the day but I had a CJ-2a Dana 41 with 4.88's and matching 25 front. Nickmil