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What else to check on the front end

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by garbageman, Sep 29, 2007.

  1. Sep 29, 2007
    garbageman

    garbageman Member

    Lexington, SC
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    Aug 24, 2006
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    Still chasing out last wander problems. When I put on the ProComp lift I added these shackles and new spring hangers on the front. When someone turns the wheel back and forth the shackles move left to right. Its all tight and not worn. Is this normal? About 1/4" in either direction. The HD shackles are 1/2" longer then stock.

    I have added wedges to bring my camber to 5.5*, caster is stock and toe in at 1/8". When I drive and steer in one direction it will stay going that direction till I steer different. A little sway with no return to center. With the front jacked up, I tugged on the wheels and they have no slack. All tie rods and steering components are new and tight. Any suggestions welcome. :?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Sep 29, 2007
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Mmm. You sure you didn't put the wedges in backwards? I believe they go with the thick side to the front, so that the axis tilts forward at the bottom, like a bicycle.
     
  3. Sep 29, 2007
    garbageman

    garbageman Member

    Lexington, SC
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    Fat side to the front. Rechecked camber @ alignment shop and it was 5.5 or 5.7* positive.

    My concern is the movement in the shackles.
     
  4. Sep 30, 2007
    JeepTherapy

    JeepTherapy Sponsor

    Negaunee, Michigan
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    http://www.jeepfan.com/tech/CasterCamberToe.htm

    Are you confusing caster and camber?

    Every jeep I have had has some movement in the shackles when turning stopped. Your shackles and bushings sure seem to be some beefy ones.

    It sounds to me like you have too much positive caster? I would take the shims back out. I thought the jeeps only needed 1-2* positive caster?

    EDIT: OK, I looked it up.... you are right in what you have it set at. Should be about 4* positive. Taking the shims out would only make it worse. Are you sure you have positive caster and not negative? The bottom of the wheel should point forward. I think someone already mentioned, like a bike fork.... You can measure the angle with an angle gauge on the bottom ball joint. I will wander out and measure mine. My 74 drives down the road almost perfect.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2007
  5. Sep 30, 2007
    JeepTherapy

    JeepTherapy Sponsor

    Negaunee, Michigan
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    Jun 29, 2006
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    Went out and measured. I have 2* positive camber. I have 4* positive caster. I didn't measure the toe but I am sure it is pretty close to your 1/8". My jeep will drive down the road at 85mph and still be very stable and controllable without wandering. I have very soft YJ springs and no sway bars. I have no steering stabilizers. I don't understand how you ended up with so much positive caster by just replacing the springs? I am assuming at least a 2* shim which would mean without the shim your at almost 8* positive. Anything else that you changed?

    Are your ball joints new and properly adjusted? Improperly adjusted ball joints will do the same thing as your describing.
    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/front axle ball joint adjustment.pdf
    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Federal_Mogul_4X4_Balljoint_installation.pdf
     
  6. Sep 30, 2007
    garbageman

    garbageman Member

    Lexington, SC
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    Ok to clarify :oops:

    My camber is positive - top of the wheels lean out in front looking at the Jeep
    My caster is 5.5* to 5.7* positive - wedges are fatside to the front.
    Toe is just shy of 1/8" and is Toed In

    Started at the steering wheel and have gone down to each wheel. Tight and true as well as I know.

    I think this afternoon I'll take the steering stabilizer off and see if it helps? Also I'll read up about ball joints and check those. They may be original - everything else was.
     
  7. Sep 30, 2007
    JeepTherapy

    JeepTherapy Sponsor

    Negaunee, Michigan
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    Thick side to the front would add positive caster then, right? Did you drive it without the shims?

    Also, if you are going to try and take the adjusters out you must take the ball joint apart first. I broke my tool trying it.

    hope you can get it figured out. I think I have been lucky with both of mine. Both of my jeeps drive down the road very good. All I have done is replace all the parts and adjust toe in.
     
  8. Sep 30, 2007
    garbageman

    garbageman Member

    Lexington, SC
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2006
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    Bought the shims from here because of the wander - helped a lot. Just looking to get it dialed in.

    -Also, went through the frame, perches and supports with brush and hammer and no cracks or weak spots.

    I'll tinker some more today and see. Beautiful here with a high of 80. Fall just may be coming.
     
  9. Sep 30, 2007
    NorCoJeeper

    NorCoJeeper Member

    Ft. Collins CO
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    Feb 10, 2006
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    The shackles will move a bit unless you tighten the shackle nuts very tight. Of course, then the shackle will be bound up and the suspension will be stiff. 1/4" *may* be a little excessive. The 6" shackles on my rockcrawler only moved about that much. If you are using rubber bushings in the shackles, try changing to polyurethane. They'll tighten up the suspension but still alow it to move freely.
     
  10. Sep 30, 2007
    garbageman

    garbageman Member

    Lexington, SC
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    Aug 24, 2006
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    large diameter shackle bolts with bronze sleeves. No rubber or poly in the shackle or spring ends. Did find that the rear spring perch for the front springs had about 1/4" free space on the sides. Like the springs were 1/4" narrower then previous. Slipped washers in and tightened.

    Did spend time out driving at various speeds and roads. What it comes down to is more of a bump steer. I'm OK on smooth pavement but on backroads with potholes and patches and dips she pulls around. Lift has draglink 2" above tierod @ pitman.

    Plan to try different PSI in the tires.
     
  11. Oct 1, 2007
    fourtrail

    fourtrail Built not Bought

    Carlinville,...
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    Jan 24, 2004
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    Just wondering why you are using brass bushings instead of rubber/poly? This will severely limit suspension flex. Also on the rear of the front spring they used a wider bushing to make up for only having one for the twist as apposed to two on the shackle end.
     
  12. Oct 1, 2007
    garbageman

    garbageman Member

    Lexington, SC
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    The HD shackle uses the larger bolt setup with bronze bushings. You can't use poly/or rubber - no room. Pressed out bushings in spring eyes and pressed in bronze bushings.

    Curious how this reduces flex. Shackles still move freely?
     
  13. Oct 1, 2007
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Reduces flex because the bronze bushing can't twist side to side like a rubber or poly bushing can. Will also give you harsher ride because a rubber or poly bushing absorbs a surprising amount of road shock. Nickmil
     
  14. Oct 1, 2007
    garbageman

    garbageman Member

    Lexington, SC
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    OK, so the HD shackles are over kill and actually are reducing flex and transferring more road shock to the frame?

    I have standard length and duty shackles and new poly bushings in a box somewhere. Would I notice the difference and or is it worth the switch? Front and Rear?
     
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