Ball Joint replacement

I did the ball joints on my D30 when I was changing gears and adding the detroit. Actually I replaced about everything on the axle... So now that I have a small fortune tied up in the thing I am still trying to find an answer to my issues. Pictures speak thousands of words;

mine with the adjuster torqued to 40ftlbs moog best ball joints


my 77 D30 unmolested ball joints


Any idea why the heck the adjuster came out so far like that? I installed per the instructions included with the ball joints. Then removed them and installed using the steps from the chiltons. The second time i used a lower torque value with the same end result.

Essentially the install was;
press in new joints
insert the joints into the holes and support it from the bottom with a jack
torque bottom ball joint to spec
torque adjuster to spec
torque upper ball joint nut to spec

 

One of mine did the same thing too, had trouble getting the special socket to ingage prop. for torque. The local machanic here said it's fine as long as you have them torqued properly. He's seen it before.

 

Did you tighten the bottom ball joint first?

 

Essentially the install was;
press in new joints
insert the joints into the holes and support it from the bottom with a jack
torque bottom ball joint to spec
torque adjuster to spec
torque upper ball joint nut to spec

 

I couldn't open your picture attachments but I'm guessing that your split sleeve is sticking out the bottom of the "C". Happened to me too. A couple threads worth protruding on the driver's side. Been like that for about 3 years. No problems. I used aftermarket ball joints from 4WD Hardware and attribute the problem to out of spec joints. Not really sure though.

 

80cj, that is exactly the issue. I used MOOG best ball joints. Next time I think I will just buy the cheapest ones.... Thanks for the response. Oh, my pic server is down...

 

i used moog's too. although i can't see your pictures, what you describe sounds like the same situation i have, with the lock ring protruding below the knuckle, creating a space for the ball stud. seems to work, though.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I am starting to feel pretty confident they are in there right and it is just the way the moog joints are. Pics should be working again now also...

 

That's exactly why I use Spicer ball joints. They fit correctly, last longer, and aren't much more expensive if at all. Around here they are actually cheaper than Moog. Plus they are OEM. Nickmil

 

I would have said they were cheaper. The MOOG joints were all the rage so of course I had to have them...