Advice on which t case

Well I am starting to collect parts to start a build up on a 47 2a and can't decide on which t case to run. Plans are a 360 amc,np435,???? narrowed dana 60 rear and a waggy 44 front. I haven't bought the adapter or a t case, but have access to a dana 18. So should I do a dana 18 or get a dana 300? I haven't narrowed the 60 yet so I can build it centered or offset.

Thanks for the advice,
Adam

 

Hello, Yes I am going to stretch the wheelbase, yj springs in the front and xj rear springs flipped backwards for most of the stretch. Mostly trail rig with alittle street time once in awhile.

 

If your going with new axle then 300 would be best option for the $.
very good Tcase.

 

I like the the fact of the strength and aftermarket support of the 300. But I like the fact that the 18 will lower the driveshaft angle and keep alittle originality to it. Thanks for the responses, keep them coming.

Adam

 

Competitive rock-crawlers run the rear diff right next to the rr tire for maximum ground clearance. Not that important for a good trail jeep. I would make the rear diff just slightly off-centered, so you have the same length axle shafts on both sides. Besides, seriously short shafts are more prone to breakage. Run the slightly off-centered diff and a Dana 300. I run a double cardon driveshaft in the rear so I can point my rear diff up at the t-case. That really lifts your rear driveshaft up and out of the way.

I would not run the waggy 44. If you are going through the trouble of swapping in a bigger front end, Make it a high pinion 44 to lift the front driveshaft up and out of the way. Or a HP-60.

Sounds like you want a good trail Jeep!

 

I want a fun toy. I have the tj for the serious stuff. I was debating swapping the tubes on a hp 44 but is alot of work. Sound like a 300 it is then. I narrowed the 70 in the tj to use the same axle shafts, so I will do the same in the flatty.

Adam

 

Instead of pulling the tubes on a HP 44, I just cut the too long side off and add it to the too short side, install an inner piece of tubing to strengthen the splice. It should be super-strong. Use a 3/4 ton Ford though (not a 1/2 ton) because there is more room on the inside of the tube for the tube you hammer/press inside and of course your axle shaft. The process is much easier that trying to pull tubes out of your differential carrier.

 

I was thinking I would grind off the short side inner c, cut off the lonside to the short side length, cut off the difference for the new longside and sleeve the two together like you suggested. I was planning on the f250 housing because I have to run 8 lug anyway. Thanks for the input.

Adam

 

eh you know who has the 18 parts if you need them R)

 

I still have a set of oiler sliding gears for the dana 300. Pm me if interested.

 

I'd also recommend the Dana 300. It's stronger and quieter than the 18 and 20 and it comes stock with a 2.62-1 low range stock. Can easily be twin sticked for front low only or 2 wheel low as well as the normal ranges and gears, lots of aftermarket support for low range conversions, and some upgrades available for the output shafts. I've got one on the bench right now that I'm working on putting a disc brake parking brake on using some parts from Tom Woods. More to follow on this though! Nickmil