Please help identify brakes

I am really struggling to figure out what brakes I have. A previous owner did the 9" to 11" conversion. All the springs for sale seem differant than mine (typical isn't it) ((I looked through the entire inventory at my flaps, just hoping)), and when I bought new wheel cylinders, I was told they were wagon brakes. I really need to replace the two springs (top and bottom), and the eccentric cams, but I don't know what to order.

As always, I'm amazed at the knowledge here. Thanks in advance.

Doug

 

Howard's right, Wagon or Pickup. Those are called "Lockheed" Brakes vs. the more modern self-adjusting "Bendix" Brakes. If you have to sink a bunch of money in them you may want to upgrade to the self adjusting and parts available "Bendix" Brakes. Do a search on this site, tons of info on 11" brakes here. Nickmil

 

Yes old Willys Jeep Station Wagon Brakes---
Remember 70ish Bronco 11 inch brakes will work too.

 

Walcks will have the parts you need.

 

I am really struggling with these brakes. I have replaced pretty much every part. I replaced the master cylinder twice after the original and first replacement were bad, new lines, all new wheel cylinders, new springs on the rears, etc... It took forever (several hours) to bleed. I finally pressurized the system with air pressure, just to make sure there were no leaks, and bled again. I am thinking that the cams on all four wheels were adjusted so poorly, that all my fluid was going to one wheel.

If anyone has any tips, I'm ready to try just about anything. When I bought the vehicle, I knew the brakes would all need replaced, but I had no idea how much of a pain it would be.

It seems the consensus is that it is worth the money to upgrade to self-adjusting, just for ease of installation. It also seems that over time they are safer. I think Im going to try and find a newer set.

 

that's your problem.



Unscrew the farthest away bleeder and SLOWLY pump the pedal with the cover removed. Should take a handful of pumps to remove the bulk of the air. Next insert a hose in a mason jar with about 2" of brake fluid, put the other end on the bleeder. Have a helper repeat the pumping action, while you watch the fluid level in the jar. Be sure to add fluid to the mc as needed.

 

After I pressurized with air, I re-bled with fluid, as the air pushed the fluid back to the master cylinder (and out the seal on the top, and all over my headers and onto the floor of the garage).

I talked to the guy at Vintage Jeep Parts, who I can't remember his name today. He thinks the pedal linkage on the master cylinder is not extending all the way. This is with the MC upgrade to the dual reservoir mounted up high. I'm trying to get new springs, and replace the eccentric bolts, now that I finally know what they are. The ones I took off really shouldn't be put back on. I guess I will re-assemble everything once I get those, and see if I can adjust the linkage.

I'm really torn about whether I want to bother with the older style 11", or replace with the newer self adjusting.

 

FWIW Those eccentric adjuster dohickys are a pita.
The return springs on the brakes can lead to fluid blowback like you described.
Everytime you pump the brakes the shoes go out as the slaves fill, then a release of brake pressure allows the return springs to force the fluid /air back at the MC.
First it might help to bench bleed the MC, then install.
Next use the adjusters to force the shoes all the way out, as in the drums will not rotate.
Then have your helper depress the pedal as you open the bleeder, then have them hold the pedal down as you close the bleeder, they can then release the pedal, Do the slaves as mentioned before furthest away to the closest in that order. When there isn't any brake pedal movement, Lossen up the adjustment a bit, drive a little frequently braking. This should helpm the shoes get seated with there respective drums. Readjust and try driving and braking. The shoes should't drag but having to go to the floor with the pedal isn't right either, neither is pumping a good idea.
Good luck

PS maybe someone has the actual Willys/Jeep spec on how far off the eccentrics should be set?

 

FYI, on the truck and wagon brakes the shoe that has the longer lining goes in the front.

 

Doug, as mentioned you can find the springs and cam at Walcks just ask for truck or wagon brake hardware. Your cam ($5-8 each) looks in pretty good shape and should clean up good. Try to save the nut if you can because I’m not sure if you can buy new ones as their not your typical nut the thread doesn’t run the full length kind of doubles as a spacer.

The cams pictured below are used ones I cleaned up.