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Help me...I'm confused (long)

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Pritchard, Apr 13, 2006.

  1. Apr 13, 2006
    Pritchard

    Pritchard 1963 CJ5

    Burlington, NC
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2005
    Messages:
    22
    I have a '63 CJ with stock engine (F134), tranny, t-case, and axles (D-27 front, D-44 rear with 4.27 gears). Everything is in good working order. I started wishing for more stopping power and considered the 11" drum upgrade. Problem is, I can't find any donor vehicles anywhere. These are the donor vehicles that I was looking for: '66-'73 Wagoneer, late 70's CJ, or early 70's Bronco. Am I missing a type of donor that might be easier to locate?
    While in the midst of the 4th salvage yard the other day, I ran across an early 80's Wrangler or CJ (I'm not totally literate on identifying which carcass I was looking at). From reading through what I could find here on this site, I think it would have a D-30 front axle. It did have the open knuckles up front with disk brakes.
    My head started spending what little money I have in the Jeep budget by thinking about a front and rear axle swap for improved braking and taller gearing for a little more top-end speed. I know that there would be a lot involved in this swap, but I'm willing if this is a good idea.
    Now for some questions:
    What axle might I find at the rear of this Jeep?
    Are they wider than my old D-27 and D-44?
    Will my master cylinder be up to the task of handling the disks and the larger 10" drums?
    Will my F134 be able to push the load with the taller gears?
    What gears might I find in the diffs?
    What would be a fair price for the front and rear axles?
    Am I a total idiot?
    Should I just keep searching for the 11" brakes and be happy with 50 mph?
    Thanks for any and all comments.
     
  2. Apr 13, 2006
    mb82

    mb82 I feel great!

    Charlottesville Va
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2003
    Messages:
    2,706
    A rear swap would require too much, new T-case new axle all of that makes ther rear not worth it. Most likely a Model 20. The front on the other hand would be worth it, the Dana 30 is only 3 inches wider then the 27. Do a gear swap in the 30 do a dual mastercylinder swap and go for it. IIRC I paid $75 for my dana 30.
     
  3. Apr 13, 2006
    Phalanxx

    Phalanxx Jeep Newbie

    iraq, texas,...
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2004
    Messages:
    363
    i paid $200 for my d 30 and had one of the guys on here sell me the knuckles for disks. mine has 3.73 gears (stock) which is what my rear is. the front will have to use your springs not te new ones though because they are longer on the newer ones and short on our old ones. you will have drag link type steering if you desire, or you can go with the old stuff. personally, i am going with the drag link that came with the new d 30. itll make it drive a WHOLE lot better AND the upgrade will give ya disk brakes to boot. so, itll drive straiter and stop better. the dual master cyl isnt that expensive and you can run a pressure regulator on the front for lower psi on disks. in my opinion, it will be worth almost anything for the safety aspect of it alone. check the gears in the new 30. if they are 3.73 or 4.10, your 4 cyl should push it easily. if they are like 3.55 or lower, i dunno. but, you might get away with just redoing the gears on the back to match the new front gears and save some cash.
    or, put bigger tires on it to counter the 4.27's. 33" will do really nicely with 4.27's.
    just a few thoughts.
     
  4. Apr 13, 2006
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
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    8,524
  5. Apr 14, 2006
    Old Bill

    Old Bill Aggressively passive....

    Really Southern...
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    Nov 12, 2004
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    For the front at least, all you need is the correct backing plates. Everything else can be bought new at your FLAPS. See here for a write up on the subject.
     
  6. Apr 14, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2005
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    2,918
    I recently got lucky and found a set of four 11" backing plates for $40, $10 ea. Local guy too. They're off a '76 DJ5 postal Jeep. I'm just gonna buy all the rest of the parts new at my FLAPS.
     
  7. Apr 14, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
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    6,197
    FWIW I thought the $$ spent on buying all new 11" kits was money well spent...the 11" work great dry, can't imagine that discs would add much. Wet performance can be enhanced with drilling the drums.

    I'd keep the 4.27's - they're a good compromise gearset.
     
  8. Apr 14, 2006
    53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Easley, SC
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    855
    You asked about other vehicles to look for the 11" stuff.

    72-75 CJ5's and 6's. Both the front and rear will work on the front or rear of your '63.

    Wagoneer's all the way up to the 80's (full size) that have Quadratrac. If they have Q-trac, they have a Dana 44 rear with 11" brakes. Those will bolt onto your front or rear axle.

    '76 and up CJ5's and 7's with drum brakes up front. During this time, the disc were an option so you'll still find some with drum brakes. The rear brakes won't work for you though b/c it's an AMC 20.

    My opinion - keep the axles you have. It's too much work and money to swap and you wouldn't get nearly enough benefits out of it to make it worthwhile. Swap what you have for 11" brakes - that'll solve your stopping problem. If you want higher speeds, look for a set of axles from a later CJ5 (up to '71). They'll be a direct bolt-in and bucket loads of the '66-'71's had 3.73 gears. You could probably get a set of these axles for $200 - $300. Whatever you do, you'll want to stay away from re-gearing b/c that's gonna drain the Jeep budget double-quick...
     
  9. Apr 14, 2006
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,470
    I'll add my $.02 - Keep the axles and go with the drilled 11" brakes. You can run these with the stock MC and upgrade to the dual later if needed.

    For speed increase - get an OD. It allows you to keep the lower gears and if you just go 1st - 3rd then OD it gives you a 4th for some more speed.
     
  10. Apr 19, 2006
    Pritchard

    Pritchard 1963 CJ5

    Burlington, NC
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2005
    Messages:
    22
    I appreciate all the input from you guys. I ended up swapping in the Dana 30 front axle with the disk brakes. I would have preferred the 11" drums if I could have found any. But I'm happy with the disk brakes. Stops quicker than the 9" drums for sure. Just need to get the front end aligned now so that I can get it out on the road and up to speed. The best thing about this swap, my 10 yr. old son really got involved (and greasy). Since this is to be his Jeep in a few years, i was glad that he wanted to learn how things worked together.
    Anyone out there have any experience with running 3.54 gears (this is what was in the new D30) with an F134 with 31" tires? The gear selector chart that I looked at said that this combo would give 65 mph at 2500 RPM, but will the F134 handle this?
    Thanks again for your input!
     
  11. Apr 19, 2006
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
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    3,437
    On that front end alignment pay close attention to your caster angle result. When I swapped in a D30, my resulting caster angle was 1 degree. Alignment shop would not source nor install the necessary shims. I had to get some 5-degree steel shims to hit the target of 5-7 degrees.
    We have sources here if you need them.

    Let us know if you experience any weird handling problems... difficult to keep between the lines... and what the alignment reports your caster angle to be.

    BTW.... got pics of the swap process? Cool that you had your son involved :)
     
  12. Apr 19, 2006
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Fairbanks, Alaska
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    Aug 12, 2003
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    Yes, what Lynn said about caster. I could barely keep it between the fences after I got the dana 30 in. Shims are needed - I'm using 5 degree also.
     
  13. Apr 19, 2006
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Aug 10, 2003
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    Certainly the F134 will turn 2500 for long periods if in good condition. I'd be interested to know if it will get up to 65 though... I expect that you will run out of power before you get going that fast.
     
  14. Apr 21, 2006
    Pritchard

    Pritchard 1963 CJ5

    Burlington, NC
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2005
    Messages:
    22
    OH MY, WHAT A NIGHTMARE!! I just drove the Jeep to work and back (~30 miles). I could not believe how bad the handling was. I had only driven around the block a few times before this and steering/handling was not too bad. Today, it was scary!!

    I'm not as familiar with the geometry of caster and camber as I would like to be. Is caster the angle in toward the center of the vehicle and camber the angle toward the rear of the vehicle?

    Where can I get these shims? And where do they go? (yes I'll seek professional help with the installation when the time comes) I have pronounced the Jeep as undrivable until something is done about the handling. What effect would worn out leaf springs have on the handling? My front springs are literally flat when under the weight of the Jeep. The rears still have some arc to them. I know I need new springs, but wouldn't this contribute to the lack of handling?

    Thanks for all your input. I can't wait until the Jeep is finally drivable. BTW, upon regaining my senses, I'm going to keep the 4.27 gears in the rear and change the D30 to 4.27's as well. My F134 just doesn't have enough grunt to push anything lower.
     
  15. Apr 21, 2006
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Fairbanks, Alaska
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    Aug 12, 2003
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    ..
    ..
     
  16. Apr 21, 2006
    Pritchard

    Pritchard 1963 CJ5

    Burlington, NC
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2005
    Messages:
    22
    Well I did some surfing and figured it out. The caster is the angle towards the rear of the vehicle and the shims go under the axle and between the springs. Now I just need to know where to find these wonderful shims.
     
  17. Apr 21, 2006
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Sep 23, 2002
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    12,529
    McRuff has made these for members before. Don't know if still does/can but worth asking him. Nickmil
     
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