Axle C-clip (snap ring).... "what the hey?"

Hi and thanks ahead of time. Front end is a D27.

Ok here's the problem: After replacing my spindle and bushing I am not able to install the C-clip on to the end of the axle. It's close.... I probably need another 1/8 inch or so for the "groove" to appear.

1. Is the C-clip neccessary?

2. If so, is it's job to keep the axle from moving in?

3. I looked at my old spindle and bushing and the old bushing has a sloped inner edge. (see pic). I don't think that the new bushing did. Is that slight slope neccessary?

4. Let me know how I've screwed up.




Thanks!

 

Re: Axle C-clip.... "what the hey?"

Have you tried wedging a screwdriver in the hole on the end of the shaft and pulling out on it? There's usually about a 1/4" of in-and-out play on the shaft.

For open knuckle applications, I usually insert a prybar into the knuckle, through the u-joints, to hold the shaft out. The problem on a closed knuckle axle is that you can't access this area. When you push in on the axleshaft while installing the c-clip, the shaft will slid in a little, and the groove will dissappear. Been there, done that. I ended up getting my wife to hold outward pressure on the axleshaft with a screwdriver, while I installed the c-clip.

 

Re: Axle C-clip.... "what the hey?"

Thanks for the response Tim.

I forgot to mention that I did try the screwdriver routine but used a bolt instead as it's threads caught the inside threads on the axle. The axle moved out some, but not enough.

Still puzzled.

 

Re: Axle C-clip.... "what the hey?"

Hmmm... Me too....

 

Ok, here's some more info. The problem is with the right front. I just finished the left front. (It's nice to work 4-10 hour days so I can spend more time with my Jeep....ah.... wife on Friday ).

The L- front went together just fine. But some mysteries I was having with the RT front may be answered. The Drum on the "bad" side had a 2 7/8" OD inner oil/grease seal instead of the 3" OD I had ordered. I ended up using the old seal "number" on its side to buy one to fit. The L-front uses the standard 3" seal.

1. I have 10" brakes.

2. The bottom line.... that may be my problem, is that the previous owner replaced the RT front drum with a size that was slightly different(I'm assuming this). Such as a smaller oil/grease seal and a slightly different width from inner seal or bearing to the most outer part near the hub. The greater width must just cover the axle groove for the C-clip. I have also replaced the spindle on this side too.

5. I barely had enough thread to install the spindle nuts, indicating the hub "sets" out farther.

4. Further pondering.... I beleive that when I removed the hub, sometime ago, that the c-clip was not even on.... it was just loose in the hub. Hmmm...

I guess I need to remove the hub and carefully measure it. Agree/disagree/Comments????

Thanks!

 

R) Don ya might want to cut back on the as it's affecting your ability to count from 1 - 5. R)

J/K, couldn't resist.

Anyhoo, as far as I know, only the Spicer axles even had those clips grooves. Not sure about the earlier Rzeppa types, but the Bendix axle shafts weren't engineered with 'em, so I suppose they were subject to some medial/lateral movement at times, but they were made that way. I'd say to forget about the clip on that side, but perhaps someone else could chime in on the specific risks of NOT having a clip on that side (e.g. maximum right turns, speed, front hub locked under accel, etc.) Honestly I know of no such real risk of leaving the clip off (assuming everything else is installed correctly).

 

OOPs! But That's how my fingers are labeled...

If the race is fully set then I guess i'll just leave the clip off.
Thanks!

 

Althought I've never done it, I've heard (read) others debate whether or not that outer C-clip is even necessary. My personal opinion is that you'd be fine to run without it. If all 6 of the hub mounting bolts sheared off, I suppose the c-clip would be the only thing that would hold the hub housing to the axle - but I gotta think there's a pretty slim chance of that happening. And, like you said, the axle isn't going to go inward any more than you can push it in.

YMMV.

 

I've been running without the snap ring for the last 4 yrs, just replaced my grenaded Dualmatics with a newer type hub and installed the snap ring. Still wondering about the hub though.

 

The C clip is not really necessary. When I put manual lockouts on my
F250 the directions said to toss it. The axle isn't going anywhere, as you've already seen for yourself. I don't know if the D30 and D27 bearings are interchangeable, but I have the part # for the 1/8" wider outer race, somewhere. I'll look for it today. It's not likely that you have the wrong drum (although anything is possible with a Heep). More likely that you have the wrong outer race.

 

That's possible, but what has me stumped is that the inner grease seal is 2 7/8" OD instead of the correct 3" OD, suggesting a different drum. Beats me but thanks to all for your help!!!!!

 

first of all, the drum is not the problem
the wheel hub is
sounds like you have a 2A, 3A or early 5 hub that uses the smaller wheel bearings and smaller OD seals
the wheel hubs are interchangable as the spindles are the same
the only diff is the OD of the hub/wheel bearings and seal
that is if I am reading all of this correctly
this would explain why each side has different size seals and bearings
if you were to remove the outer flange of the spindle bushing, it would go together just fine IMO

 

Thanks Jim, that clears it up for me and the fix as well. Thanks much!!

 

My 56 CJ5 has the 2 7/8" o.d. inner seal. (National p/n 40566 S) Since it is of the second year of CJ5 production, I would agree with what Jim says, above.

tommy b