Cold cranking, not happening!

My 75 CJ has a 258 from a 79 so it has the original Carter 2-barrel on it. The carb has ran very well and I have had no problems with it until this "artic blast" moved into NE mississippi. Tried to crank it the other morning when it was only like 35 outside and she wouldn't say nothin, and it's been in the 20's for the past couple of days, so I think I need to figure out something. As far as I can tell, parts of the choke were removed for some reason, and I think I need to figure out a way to get it back like it's supposed to be. Any pics or diagrams out there that shows what everything hooks up to or would I be better off buying a manual clutch cable for it, or maybe a block heater?
Thanks

 

It tried to fire a couple of times, and then I had to hook the cables up to my truck b/c the battery was drained. I kept trying it, pumping it, holding it to the floor, everything. Not once did it flood, but eventually it cranked, but this was yesterday afternood when it was 55 degrees.

 

In the meantime, you can get starting fluid at your FLAPS - squirt it down the carb and it will fire. It's mostly ethyl ether, which is much more volatile than gasoline and vaporizes even at very low temps. Don't go overboard - some say that ether will wash the oil off the cylinders, which will make them wear faster if you use it a lot. IMO it's an insignificant effect unless you start your car that way every day.

Either that, or just pour a tablesppon or two of gas down the carb. Gasoline needs to vaporize to fire, and more gas means more vapor. At low temps, a smaller part of the liquid becomes vapor, so more fuel is needed - hence the choke.

 

That's what I'd try also. Make sure it is getting fuel. If there is water in the gas lines it could be freezing up on you.

 

Wow, 35 is an artic blast?????

It was 11 degrees here this a.m. and only going to get colder

good luck with that carb,

High5

 

It's been in the low 20's, which is very cold for MS this time of year. I'll try that, but I need to figure out a way besides buying a new carb to do this a little easier. Hoping for a new carb from santa, maybe!

 

Be careful about removing choke parts. This can cause a vacuum leak, hence the hard starting routine. Ask me how I know.

 

Regarding your question about the choke parts, I thought that the CJs came with the Carter YF 1bbl until 1981. Trucks and Wagoneers with 258s used the Carter BBD 2bbl on a 2V cast iron manifold, starting in 1977, until 1981. AFAIK all the 258s were changed to the BBD and a new 2V aluminum manifold in 1981.

Does your engine have a cast iron 2bbl intake manifold? If so, it's pretty close to what came stock on my truck, and I can post some pics and description tonite.

 

Mine is also hard to start now that it's getting cold. I pump mine 3 x's & hold it to the floor & switch on. If it doesn't start right up, I take my foot off the gas completely, try it & if still no start depress the gas pedal slightly, probably less than half way & we're off to the races. It sputters a little for a few seconds, then smooths out. Ain't old carbs fun

 

Although we don't see the harsh weather you people see. My CJ-5 was very hard starting especially after sitting for a few days. I stuck a DUI HEI ignition in it and all I have to do is step on the gas pedal to set the choke and crank. It fires up instantly all the time. Previous to changing the distributor, I thought I was having a fuel problem.

 

Well, after much troubleshooting, here's what I came up with.
I wasn't getting any fire until I let off the key, so i'm thinking that the carb isn't my problem, it's getting gas for sure. I thought the coil was bad, so I got a new one, and not it doesn't seem to be firing at all. I'm thinking that maybe it's the ignition box now, which is also new. I was talking to my local mechanic and I told him that I had left the key on accidentally a couple of times for short periods of time (<1hour) and when I went back to crank it, it was dead as a hammer (brand new battery). I'm just wondering if maybe something isn't wired right? Who knows? I don't know for sure, any help or suggestions?

 

I don't know your system, but on some older vehicles, the coil is running on 6 volts normally and boosted to 12 for starting. that is the purpose of the ballast resister on the firewall (dropping the voltage to 6 volts for run circuit). it is possible that the circuit for voltage boost is not completing and you are only getting juice when the key is in the on position... $.02