Pass side tie rods hit the leaf spring!

Trying to mock up my manual Saggy with Herms tie rod set.

This is what is happening when I try to make a full left turn:


What is goig wrong, and what it the best way to correct it? :? :? :?

Thanks in advance!!!!

Don

 

The easiest way to correct it is probably to put a caster shim under the axle perch so that it rolls the axle back a little, it probably needs more caster anyway, a 2* shim will more than likely make it drive nicer and will add about 1/2" clearance to the setup.

 

MB: Yes, the tie rod is tight. In fact, that's the first thing I tried to do when I encountered this problem.

MR (sure are enough Mikes on this board! ) Can you point me to a good source for these shims?

*sigh* At least the U-bolts look to be fairly new and should come apart easy.

 

That looks exactly like Nixon's TRE on the pass side with the same set up. I never had a problem with it...just always turned till it hit the spring and let her ride. It would turn much sharper in the other direction.

 

Me!! I have made several sets for the guys on this board that actually fit but you can buy them, some alignment shops will have them, just avoid the alumnum ones and use steel only as the aluminum ones are a fit-all and are scored to break to fit but they also have a tendency to brake when installed because of this.

 

I'll stop in at the alignment shop up the road tomorrow and see what they have to say.

Don

 

I'm thinking that the M38a1 has the spring shackles at the rear. This probably makes the problem slightly worse than on CJ5's.
Just an observation & I could be wrong.

 

Hey, you're right about the shackles AKCJ. I just ran out to the garage and looked.

So, is the shim thing still applicable to this particular Jeep?

 

Got mine here:

4Crawler.com

 

Yep. Shims would be the easiest way out.
However, this would be a great time to consider the tie rod flip. If you move it to the top it's less likely to get damaged on the trail. You may want to consider this an opportunity to upgrade. . . .

 

Can I ream out the holes for the tie rod flip bushings with the knuckle still on the axle, or would i need to take them off and put 'em in a drill press?

Concerned about not getting the hole drilled straight.

 

I would think that you could remove the tire, turn the steering wheel such that the steering arm is sticking out from under the fender as far as it will go, and drill away. Should give you plenty of room.

As for drilling it straight - well, that's up to you!!!!

 

i did mine with the tire still on there... but am really starting to question my ability to drill straight holes. it might also pose as an oppurtunity to do the knuckle stud upgrade as well, if you haven't already done it (and check those pesky kingpin bearings).

whoops... knuckle on, tire most definately has to come off.

 

So it appears as though I would need to drill for three bushings. One on each knuckle, and the one for the draglink on the pass side TRE. Is it okay to run with the angled part pointed away from the front bumper?

 

i was more talking of a wallowed out hole. i put jb weld in the hole and around the top, but i seem to have a little bit of play in the steering still. i've done a saginaw swap, kingpin bearings, new tres all the way around, and crossover steering but it still feels like it did when i started chasin things down... it might be something else not completely done right, the caster might be off or something, but i was just mentioning how much i question myself for drilling them out with the knuckle still on. sorta like how i almost drilled the studs out instead of sending them to mike; a sure disaster narrowly avoided.

then again, it's only wanting to hover slowly between the lanes while chugging at 70ish down the interstate. with a short wheelbase maybe that's all i should expect?? sorry if'n i hijacked the thread slightly.

 

that's what i'm running right now, all three have inserts and the angles worked out good for me. lock to lock without a problem.