repairing kingpin stuff

sounds good

 

Good luck with the project, zed. It really isn't difficult to do. Dan and I did it all in about 6 hrs time. It will go way quicker after you get one side done and know what you're doing.

By the way, I didn't need to replace the studs. There really isn't any way of knowing until you get into the project, though. If there is any sign of wear, I'd replace those too. YMMV

 

speed buggy, thanks for the reassurance.

do i drain the differential first as well and remove the axle?
then just pump the 140wt into the ball and knuckle?

laffster, i will post the images later tonite. that stuff is on another machine.

 

I didn't need to drain the diff, but I did for inspection. I used a knuckle pudding as well.

 

do you remember the formula for the pudding?

 

Yep-

I took a handfull of wheel bearing grease and put it in a butter tub. I added 90 wt gear oil until I could get it to suck into my hand pump. Then I filled the knuckles with it. Did the trick

 

lafester ( i think i have now spelled your screen name 6 dif. ways.)

the picts of the tilt column are posted @
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=217806#post217806

two posts long. enjoy and let me know if you need any more of the complete setup. it looks a little nicer since i finalized it.

 

Why are studs better than the bolts? Are bolts not as strong? This is something I'm about to start too and am courious before I order the parts.

 

I used grade 8 bolts.

 

Very well put. My only suggestion is to pull everything apart first. That way, you can see the condition of all of it before ordering parts. I always feel more comfortable ordering once I see all that is there

 

In moses ludel's bible he used grade 8 button head bolts. any advantage or disadvantage of these over the studs from krage?

 

Ahhh, I re-read Verns write-up. I get it now.

Everything is apart. Whats interesting to me is that the bearings and cups on the driver side were bad (upper and lower), but on the passenger side they were like new. Asked my dad and he said he never touched 'em. You would think both sides would be equally shot.

Another question as long as I'm here...how do the shims change the pre-load? How can raising or lowering the cap cause a change in this?

Thanks again...

Brad

 

The fewer the shims, the tighter the bearing is pushed into the cup, making it harder to turn (tightening up your steering).

 

locktite when he installed em. i assume red. i can never remember the different numbers.

what do you press them in with that fits and won't damage the parts?

 

i just tapped 'em in with a hammer iirc.
use a drill press and a nice new bit to clean out the old threads.
clean up any sharp edges and tap in your new studs.
the spindle will be very tight, but will go in... once the nuts are tight it will straighten all the studs nicely so removal won't be as bad.

chris