Flanged 44 And D30; How Much $$?

I might have a lead on a flanged offset 44 and a D30. No pics yet, so I don't know what condition it is, but the seller is asking $600 for both of them.

Is that a crazy price? A good price?

 

Assuming it's in good usable condition, the rear is worth that. Front would be a bonus.

 

At face value that sounds good. You’ll want to consider how they are set up. Do they have the gearing you want, and are they geared the same? Lockers? Brakes? Axle upgrades can get quite expensive.

 

Yes it is a good price but they will need rebuilt with lockers and gears. It's an all-in sort of item with each axle. There is no half way or slowly upgrading each and you are looking at the same cost as the 4 speed swap for each axle.

I'ld store em away and build one each year.

 

Thanks for the quick responses.

I haven't the slightest idea how they're set up just yet, but I'm hoping the seller can give me some more info.

I'm pretty happy with the 4.88s and OD right now, but I might consider 4.56s or 4.27s if I'm regearing everything anyways just to get it cruising a bit lower when it's up at 60mph and above.

I'll have to start doing some basic math on carriers, rebuild kits, gears, and such. Then I should probably multiply the number I come up with by 3 or 4, since that's always how it seems to work out...

It would definitely be a (relatively) long-term investment. Not sure when I'd get them done, but it would probably be a few years at minimum until I build them, bar me blowing up what's under the Jeep now or making a good bit more $$ than I anticipate.

 

The flanged 44 not only is stronger than the earlier axles, but they're 30 spline shafts, which opens up a lot more options for the differential. I'm running an Eaton E locker in mine and I love it. Most of them came stock with 3.73 or 4.88 gears but you should pull the cover to verify.

 

…and the flanged 44 has 2 3/4” tubes, where the tapered version has 2 1/2” tubes.

 

Just make sure it's a true offset axle, and not just a set off intermediate axles. (centered rear axle).
Seeing it paired with a 30 is the reason for my comment.

 

Funny this should come up. I was just wondering the same thing as I am finishing up a rebuild of a '70 offset flanged Dana 44 and a '72 Dana 30. All new bearings (Timken and Koyo), all new gaskets and seals, new Spicer u joints and ball joints, new shoes and drums (11"). In those parts alone I'm into it close to $800 in both axles (and that's shopping around).

That doesn't include the cost of used front and rear powerlocks, new clutches, and 4.88 gears. Not to mention all the time I spent disassembling, cleaning, stripping, painting, setting up the gears, and reassembly (it was a lot of time).

But yes, $600 for the pair seems like a pretty decent deal for a good used set. Get the spring plates with the 44 if you can as it does have larger diameter axle tubes as mentioned.

 

I bought my D44 flanged off set housing rear cover and axle shafts for $140 local. I then put an Eaton E Locker G2 5.38 gears A G2 install kit with SKF bearings (Japanese Toyota OEM) 11" Bendix Brakes with everything but the backing plates brand new, A brand new Pinion Yoke And I paid a local shop that are absolute experts in setting up gears assemble it because $250 they charged me was well worth it compared to the PITA it would have been for me to do it even though I took rear end class 3 times during my Auto Tech major at Portland Community College. The pattern looked like it came out of a text book it was so perfect.

By the time it was all said and done I think I had just short of $2200.00 in my rear axle. And know what with a whopping 80HP to push into it I will never ever damage it unless I end up with a single wheel spinning at hwy speed and stopped suddenly. And that Ain't likely.

 

I have a matched set I expect I will want to sell in about two years.
1971 Offset flanged D44 30 spline genuine Powr Lok with 4.89 gears is fully rebuilt with all new clutches, deep stamped Timken USA, DS seals etc including 2K paint.
Paired up to a 1972 D30. Again with genuine Powr Lok and all the other goodies mentioned including DS ball joints and NOS 11” Bendix drum brakes all around.
These axles are what I consider to be better than new condition.
Overall Perfect condition ready to drop in.
I expect I have $3000 in them as a pair.

 

Do you know what the axles came from?

 

My upgrade for last winter on my 3B was a offset flanged 44 and D30 with OX lockers, new 5.38's, and 11in drums and front disc brakes. Also a T18 w/r
I won't print how much $$$$ it cost.
If their not bent, their worth $600

 

Haven't heard back yet, I'll update when I do. Still don't know if it's a flanged offset D44, how it's setup, etc.

Did some searches and math, and excluding brakes it looks like I'd be into building both of them around $4k with Ox Lockers making up a good bit of that. That figure includes new gears and rebuild kits from Yukon.

 

That sounds like a heck of a setup. If what I'm looking at doesn't work out, can I get my name in the rolodex for when you eventually sell those?

Do you have a rough ballpark of how much $$ you'd want for those when the time comes? If you don't at the moment, that's fine. I'm going to do some more math...

 

I have an offset flanged 44 from a 71 CJ5 that comes with a Gleason diff. Currently geared at 3.31, but you can get thick gears to make any ratio work on the carrier. No brakes on it, $250 and you pick it up.

 

Had to look up what a Gleason diff was...quite interesting, it's truly a limited slip differential in a very mechanical way. I also didn't know that's what thick gears were for when I'd see them for sale. Learn something every day I s'pose.

Thanks for the offer. I'm going to look into this as well.

 

You may want to also look in to a 30 spline full float rear axle. I'm completely sold on those. If something goes amiss on the trail, just pull the rear driveshaft and drive flanges (or axle shafts if flanged shafts) and drive home in front wheel drive. The wheels stay on and you still have brakes.

 

Remember, just because you buy a used axle doesn't mean you have to spend $$$$ replacing every component. I bought a flanged 44 with a Trac Loc and a matching 27 front and all I did was put in fresh gear oil and pack the wheel bearings.
Later on I did the whole rebuild thing when I put the E locker in the rear and the Power Lok up front but that was years later.

 

No response from the seller, but he changed his listing and won't sell any parts unless he sells his Jeep first. Couldn't be bothered to respond to my 3 questions of course, even just to say "Hey, I've changed my mind."