1952 M38a1 Build: Not For The Purists

I'm keeping the guard and mounting a spot light of some sort in it. because of the weird mounting, I've got to find a light that isn't very tall. I could put a a 12v blackout in there but I wouldn't be very useful. Another A1 owner I know on IG had a LED spot light mounted there.

I'll have to check them out. Thanks.

 

Yeah, it look a while to decide on what kind of light I wanted in there and one that would look centered. You cout fit a 3" light if it the mount was flush to the bottom of the light. I wanted to run some quality lights that had a wide pattern like I run on my other Jeep. It has Baja Designs Squadron SAE's. BD doesn't make an SAE in a S1 housing though. Didn't want to run a modern light on the bumpers either. I figure if I want to hide the lights, I could always 3D print some covers that look like the blackouts though. I'm not sure what I'll run on the driver fender though. Definitely going to be a spot light of some sort.

The only problem is that some parts are expensive. The gas tank was a huge investment. They sure don't get the love of a Flatfender but they are the link between the Flatfender and the CJ5. Even 3B's get more respect.

 

The OEM blackout is kinda cool for a "sneak light." Just enough to drive with slowly, but only looks like a patch of moonlight to any observer.

 

Driving with the blackout lights around the neighborhood at night is fun!
Red dash lights and just a flick of light out front. Did that, looking at the Christmas lights in yards and houses decorated up on a night with a full moon. Very cold and kinda fun, (Wife had a blanket) then we came in and drank hot chocolate. Might become a family tradition. The grandkids love to ride, and they get the old Walkie Talkies out and see how far they can still hear each other on rides. Working on getting the Jeeps ready for the Denton NC Military Vehicle Show in April now.
Got to get the radiator back in the 54 A1, and the 64 A1 is running a little rich, but is running.

Dave

 

Was able to work on the brakes again. We've been having fake Springs here with rain and hail in between. It really limits my ability to work on the Jeep since it's outside. After taking the brake lines out, I've been cleaning up some of the OE parts to reuse. I bought some USA made brake hardlines and I've noticed they only supplied one clamp that ties into the dill cover bolts so I jueat cleaned up the original ones. They're not too bad., just packed in grease and dirt.




The rubber lines weren't USA made and I did run into some issues. The biggest one was that the groove for the clips was cut closer to the base. I found that there was no way to use the clips unless I removed the clip behind the groove. Once I removed those, everything worked fine. The other issue is that the original clips were very thick. Luckily, I bought some new clips which were the right thickness so there was no issues.



Ran into another issue. The PO used 3/8" hardlines for the Bendix HydroVac. There was a plug in the Master Cylinder fitting and a 3/16" NPT to 3/8" flare. So I wasn't able to tighten up the fitting before bottoming out the nut. After some frustration, it looks like they removed the flare part at the bottom. Wasted too much time looking at that hack job.



I had to figure out the "S" lines as well. One way, they were too long to fit between the bracket and the cylinder. Turned it around and it worked. Not sure really sure if they're symetrical.




Boought a Leslie 1/2" Impact Screwdriver and it took those screws out easily! Great to know the drums aren't swedged. When I come back to replace the 9" drums I'm going to replace the studs so they're all RH. Currently, the driver front is the only side with LH studs. Still not sure if I'm going to go with 11" drums or Sidekick discs. I'm gonna have to decide soon though. I really need to take the hubs off and rreplace the bearings. They are very sticky. Also, I need to get new tie-rod ends, too.

 

So, I was looking at this again and realize that my drums are over the hubs up front so does that mean I don't need to worry about the stud? And don't have to drill the discs out?

I'm still thinking about getting a full set of studs since I have to replace the driver front LH studs for RH. I'm thinking J5353025 would work with the Sidekick discs?

Also got the passenger side done. I did flip the S line so they're not symmetrical to the other side. I might have to fix that so my OCD doesn't kick in. Or I'll leave it because I'm lazy... The new lines sure look nice though.

 

If they are on and not leaking you’d be crazy to ever touch them again.

 

When I did the S-lines, I found it much easier if I loosened the wheel cylinder to give more clearance. Once the flare nuts get started okay, tighten it down again, then torque the nuts.

BTW - I think left-handed lug threads are the secret handshake of the True Jeephood. I'd definitely keep them.

 

Helped a friend do brakes on an old Jeep. He said, "I've broken 2 studs, and I know Left hand threads on the left." Turned out PO had swapped the drums. He had left hand threads on the right and right hand threads on the left.
Took a little to figure that out

Dave

 

I was able to fit them in with the rubber line disconnected.

They're only on that one wheel though. At least I fixed that half of the lug nuts were 13/16" and the other half were 3/4" so there were three different lug nuts on the Jeep.

 

Military versus civilian, in my experience.

 

Had to get all the lug nuts the same on the 64 M38A1. Just ordered a new set of log nuts from Midwest Military now they are all the same.

Dave

 

Just found a coffee can of mixed nuts at the dump, along with a 16" wheel that has the 'military' 1/8" hole.

 

Order come new parts. Ordered on Sunday and got them by Thursday. Ordered bearings and races for the wheel bubs. They aren't smooth when spinning them by hand. If I have to pull them for brekes I might as well replace them. I also order a set of tie-rods for the M38A1. A set of 20 lug studs as one set are LH and it's probably a good idea to swap them all out while I have them apart. Two new spindle nutsl as new seals. Oh and also ordered a new brass Y fitting as well as new brash washers for it.



Here's the problem I had easlier. The PO either modified the Y fitting replaced it with one with NPT and no flange.



The M38A1 has a breather on the top of the cap and the PO used that to run a remote reservoir for the HydroVac. Well, I removed the HydroVac and got rid of the line.



And after all that work I was able to connect the lines just like how they were originally run. The biggest difference is that I have brakes now. They are firm and will lock up if I stand on them. No more having to pump them up and still having it drop to the floor after a while.



I have another order of parts coming from Brennan's Garage in a few days...

 

Got most of the wiring done for good I think. Or at least good enough for now. I have all of the wires going through the old vent in the firewall since it was the biggest hole and I know I'm going to make a cover for it. Only the power wire for the brakes goes through a different hole. There isn't much for the engine wiring with the 1-Wire, Toyota Starter, ballest-less coil and Electronic ignition. I'm using a Painless Performance Headlight relay kit as my headlight harness and on the other side is the Baja Designs S1 wide Amber lights that are in the parking light/blackout location. There's one other light that I'll be adding but I haven't decided on what I'll use for it just yet. I'm still waiting for a carburetor air horn to come in as well.



Some parts from my next order started arriving. I bought a Tauler Jack kit with the Trackick Disc brake brackets. I also have his skid plate coming. I decided to go with discs ovver drums since I didn't want to deal with trying to find some old backing plates. I've also come to learn that I hate adjusting manual adjusting brakes. Saving around $200 over drums is worth the hassle of having to source everything myself. So, I'll be diving back into the brakes for the 5 or 6th time soon enough. At least for now the brakes work and on the first try.

 

I'd be interested to learn how you like the taller jack. I was thinking about picking up a kit myself, but hadn't heard any reviews other than from Brennan himself.

 

I've heard good things from a few people. Harry Wagner wrote about his a few years ago. I think it'll be a nice addition to the Hi-Lift.

 

Addition, not replacement?

 

I actually like the Hi-Lifts. Been using them since the '90s. There's some situations where a shorter jack is just easier to use though.

 

I own about four. Use them all the time at work, on the farm, and yes I carry them in my vehicles. Don't leave home without one.