Clutch Lets Out (too?) Fast

good morning all.

jeep: 68, 225 dauntless, t14 transmission, 3.73 gears

recently installed a new clutch. yesterday after installing new shocks thought i would take it for a spin. there is very little play in clutch travel. i let off the clutch to move forward and i squeal the rear driver side tire leaving the shed.
pulled over on the gravel lane by my house and started in 1st, and same thing, i just throw gravel. i have to really ride the clutch to not do that. and when i say really ride, i mean it seems like a short throw to be in gear, and out of gear when i depress the clutch pedal. what gives?

i am used to the old Fhead, first time buick driver here, but its not supposed to do that, i am fairly certain.
also, my idle is set low, so its not a takeoff from a high idle issue.

 

Cable needs adjusting . I recall about 1/4" slack when peddle is up???/

 

Might just need to break in the friction plate for a day or two, before adjusting.

 

I will try and let it break in first for a bit. Only about 15 shifts in action so far. Pedal travel was set per the FSM

 

Have you been driving this Jeep before the clutch replacement?
Did you compare the new pressure plate with the original? Same with the throw-out bearing, was it replaced and compared to the original?
There are variations in these parts, and even a fairly small difference can affect the way they work.
I have a neighbor with a new-to-him ‘65 DJ5 (F134/T96) that has the same “quick” clutch you are experiencing. I believe his has the wrong bellcrank arm between the frame and transmission, or that the arm was installed backwards.
-Donny

 

There was no transmission/clutch/pressure plate when I bought it to compare back to.

 

I suspect you have some wrong combination of clutch, or more likely linkage parts in your Jeep. There at least four variations of bellcrank crossbars depending on engine and transmission combinations. Most of the “new” ones are sold as one-size-fits-all, namely for the most popular F134/T90. The angles of the two arms relative to each other, as well as the distance to the rod holes varies depending on the application. These variations make a huge difference in the operation of the clutch operation, similar to what you are experiencing. Yes, I have seen these arms installed backwards. One arm is longer than the other, and that changes the “throw”.
-Donny

 

i will post a pick when i get home later today.

 

I just pulled out my parts manual (1195 R1) under Group 11-02 Clutch Control, and there are 7 different “lever and tube” (what I was calling bellcrank), and 8 different “rods” that link the “lever and tube” with the “shaft” (the part that both pedals pivot on). Part numbers follow that are specific to the T14a transmission. Serial # refers to the serial tag on your firewall above the heater box.
For the two rods used with the T14a; 947223 (9.74”) and 991143 (10.28”).
For the “lever and tube” used with the T14a; 941232 (up to serial#350311) and 991145 (after serial#350310)
For the clutch release cable (pulls throw-out arm); 941234 (13.62”, up to serial # 239563), 947224 (14.3” after 239564)
There is even a V6 specific clutch pedal arm used up to the serial #350311
I don’t have a serial #break where the 58.18”clutch cable came into use. Does your Jeep use the long cable-operated clutch, or was that only the very late CJ5?
I doubt this helps you very much, but illustrates that the correct parts are needed to to make your clutch operate properly. You can’t just install any similar part on the clutch linkage and expect it to work properly.
Were any of these parts included with your Jeep, or where did you source them?
-Donny

 

… or is one arm shorter than the other?

 

I believe that was only 70 & 71

 

The clutch I got from rock auto, the clutch tube and all that stuff I got from Kaiser willies.

 

Cross shaft is a fuzz under 8.5" long, 1" Dia.

No way am I getting a 9.75" unit in there. This one was hard enough

From underneath, looking up:

 

I gonna bet that you just need to loosen the cable to your throw out .

 

......Or you may have to bleed the clutch slave.

 

Looking at the image in the FSM, looks like you’re bellcrank is upside down.
Clutch pedal linkage on top, throwout linkage on bottom.

 

What you are calling a cross shaft is what the parts catalog calls the lever and tube. There are two different one’s used with the T14a, depending on the serial number of your Jeep. Check my post #9. What part number did you get from KW?
Again, there are two different length rods used with the T14a, (#16 in diagram in post #16), and you should have the part correct for your serial number.
From your photo, you appear to have the correct orientation of the tube and lever (sorry Andrew, you’re looking at the diagram wrong), but you need to check the rod length (#16) between the pedal shaft and the tube and lever to see if it the correct one for your serial number.
With the correct parts in place, and adjusted correctly, you should have good pedal travel when releasing the clutch.
-Donny

 

Looking at my order history this is the one I ordered:
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/produc...oss-shaft-fits-66-71-cj-5-with-v6-225-engine/

 

bringing this back up. from the manual:



so that tells me i should adjust the cable, if i am reading correctly.

serial # of my jeep 8305 S 238618.
part # 16 in the above diagram is 10.25" from the cross shaft to the pedal.

 

......I believe so. You need to loosen your cable.