Front Propeller U Joint Zerk

While servicing/cleaning/painting my propeller shafts, I found that one of the zerks had broken off a u joint. Being a kind of smart guy, I extracted the stub and replaced the zerk. Being a kind of dumb guy, I didn’t think why the zerk was broken. The new zert blocks movement at the u joint. Is the solution to use a greaseless (non-serviceable) u joint, reposition the u joint, or put in a different zerk? I’m not sure if this is the original propeller shaft because I have a SM-420 tranny. It’s the u joint on the left below. Thanks in advance.

 

Does your Jeep have a lift kit? Maybe too much angle for the U Joint?

 

I'ld re pack by hand and see if it clears facing the other yoke. even a straight fitting on it would be better than a broken grease fitting and exposed grease.

 

Reposition the ujoint or install a needle type zerk fitting.

 

If it's a very slight interference, maybe a little clearance with a die grinder?

 

Jeep has a lift kit from PO. I’m not sure how much of a kit. The u joint won’t move freely then installed in the propeller shaft because the space between the holes for the cross and the base of the propeller shaft is too shallow. I installed in the same orientation as it originally was with the zerk pointing toward the zerk on the shaft. I will flip it around and see if it is a problem with the yoke when I install the propeller shaft.

Follow up question is one of the u joints had about 6-7 needle bearings that were slightly longer than the rest, but didn’t appear to block the cap from seating down. I’m guessing the PO lost a few needles and replaced them with what he had. Or maybe it was quality control at the factory. Any problem with leaving a few long needles in the caps if the caps seem to seat properly?

 

They do make u-joints that are sealed and ones with the grease fitting on a cap.

 

U-joints are sort of a pain to replace and quality replacements pretty cheap. I would be replacing all of them while those shafts are out. No way would I be using one with mismatched needles. The broken zerc was no doubt from having that installed backwards. The Spicer greaseless versions last well and are stronger. https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p4...universal_joint_1310_series_maintenance_.html

 

Thanks. For all the advice. I will replace the sketchy ones with sealed u joints. It was a good learning experience to take them apart and repack, and I read several posts where people comment that the original parts are better quality than newer parts. To be honest, I’m not sure if these are even original.

 

Me too.

 

Where is the zerk?
I've seen them in the middle of the cross, on an arm, or in the cap.
For anything but the middle:

Middle zerks usually require a 90 degree zerk.

 

Middle of the cross.

 

You should be able to install and position a 90 degree zerk where it won't interfere with the driveline.
You can use a needle zerk, buy you may have to remove the driveline to lube the U joint.
Otherwise, a cap or arm zerk if you decide to replace the u joint.

 

I've seen UJs with the needle point type grease fitting in the center of one bearing cup, fully accessible from the outside. Seemed like a good idea to me. Certainly better than disconnecting the driveshaft every time you want to add grease.

 

From reading old threads on u joints, it looks like the replacement spicer parts are 5-1301X (non-greasable) or 5-153 (greasable) for the rear and 5-248X (greasable) for the front. Unfortunately, it does not look like there is a non-greasable option for the front, and the zerk is in the middle, so I will plan on replacing with a 90 degree zerk. Also, I read on the Spicer web site that the country of origin for both is China. I don't know if that is a recent change, but I read in old posts that you should try to avoid the Chinese parts, so I'm not really sure what to make of that.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about Chinese replacements they should be good enough for an easy driver. you'll eventually get a feel for who has a similar driving style to you, who is easier, and who puts there jeep into the trees.

If it does keep you up at night you can get yokes for the pinion and transfercase from a 4cyl jeep. They used the same u-joints as the rear driveshaft. You just need a new driveshaft to go with everything else.

 

The only thing that keeps me up at night is my snoring (or my wife’s snoring)! Thanks everybody. This has been very helpful.

 

Caution! Hijack Alert! That DeWalt 20V vacuum is an awesome tool.

 

X2. Have one here. 100x better than a dust buster.