67 Cj5 Build Thread By A Rookie

I bench bled the MC, reinstalled it, and bled the lines. Seemed to go ok and with no leaks. Is it normal for air to come out of this hole when the MC cover is off when you press the brake pedal?

Also, when bench bleeding the MC, this floating stuff came out of the front compartment. I flushed it out, but have no idea what it is. It looked like egg drop soup!

 

Did it taste like egg drop soup? It probably is.

 

Finally in town to get some work done.
1. Brake leaks - I have leaks at the banjo bolts at the MC. I have them pretty tight, so I need to figure out how to fix that. I’m thinking loosen a half turn then retighten to see if that crimps the copper washers better.

2. I got the tub back on! Serial number plate cleaned, clear coated, and reinstalled.

3. Needs some touch up work where the rotisserie bracket was attached.

5. Fab’d, painted, and installed the clutch return spring.

 

So the next steps are
1. Shim the body/bushings as needed.
2. Figure out the MC brake fluid leak.
3. Start electrical harness.
4. Finish off fuel filler. The lines I got look funny and I think I might need to get some flex line

 

Seeking opinions. I can put the gas filler between the reverse and tail lights.
Pros: Although my 67 had neither reverse lights or rear gas tank, this would be closer to the look of an earlier CJ5; retains the ability to use the rear right panel for spare tire.

Or I can put the filler on the rear right panel.
Pros: Easier to fill (lights not in the way; avoids having spare on rear right panel which can damage the panel - maybe it wouldn’t even be practical to use.

 

If you ever want to build any type of carrier on the rear for gas cans, spare tires, hi-lifts, etc, then putting it on the side would be better. But it doesn't look original to anything on the side. So I am no help.

 

Here’s what I got done today:
1. Brake MC push rod - I cut this down to length to accommodate the way the new MC is mounted rearward. I experimented with moving the MC forward, but the new bracket would still be in the way. Then I got out the old push rod to determine the correct length before cutting down the new one. Great clearance, and I think enough movement.

2. New speedo line from Deluxe Speedometer in Denver. They made it the same day, shipped it out the next day. 64” was the correct length. I used the bushing from the old cable and an O ring to make it seat snugly.

3. Put in the rear lights and started planning for fuel filler. I think I’m going to go with between the lights. I’m probably never going to add a rack, and I’m fixated on the cool looking but impractical spare on the side.

4. Shimmed all points where the tub bolts in. I have it loose so I can finish up the fuel filler and vent lines.
5. Connected rigid fuel and return lines on frame to rigid lines at engine.



Next steps:
1. Finish fuel filler and vent lines. The preformed lines from MTS don’t fit perfectly, so I need to get some 3/4” and 1” to span the gap. In retrospect, I would have bought regular fill line and added the right fitting at the end where it attaches to the filler. Lessons learned.
2. Final tub attachment to frame
3. Start laying out wiring harness.
4. Install grill, radiator, lines.

I feel like I am getting close to starting this jeep up! I appreciate everybody's help along the way.

 

Wow, you are gonna have a nice jeep, really like the color too! .

 

Took some time off this weekend to get a ‘69 Jeepster. It has the same Dauntless engine as my CJ5, so hopefully will be a good reference for me as I continue to put the CJ5 back together. Oh, and it drives!

 

Nice.! You needed another project and we need more pictures of this...

 

Fuel filler line in place. I’m waiting for a 3/4” 90 for the vent. One thing I learned it to put the hose clamps in an orientation that is easily accessible when everything is put together.

Oil pressure and engine temperature senders installed and harness started.



It was really nice to have the jeepster 1 bay over so I could trace out the electrical connections at the engine.

 

In the second picture, the oil pump looks like it has a gasket that isn’t installed correctly, as part of the gasket is hanging out, is it the correct gasket? Have you primed the oil system with a drill yet? Is it making oil pressure? I would defiantly prime the motor with a drill before attempting to start to make sure it is getting oil pressure. I just rebuilt my oil pump last month and all my gaskets fit with nothing hanging over.
You are doing a great job documenting your build.

 

Thank you. My mechanic who sent the engine off to be rebored (?) rebuilt the oil and water pumps and primed the system. I haven’t started it up yet because I am waiting on the electrical work and cooling. Hopefully soon!

He said I wouldn’t need to reprime it, but I need to double check. I also need to figure out the first time startup recipe. It already has a zinc additive for first time startup.

 

as long as you have a plan, stick with it, I had just noticed the gasket and didn’t want you to hurt the fresh overhaul.
There’s all kinds of info on the web about first time start up and breaking in new cams by varying RPM’s for a certain amount of time. Zinc additive in the oil is good for the break in period. I still add it every time I change oil.
Keep up the good work!

 

I am with Rob on this, that gasket sticking out like that is most unusual. I believe I would at least contact your assembly man and ask him if he remembers it looking like that. If he offers no explanation for it I would probably have him disassemble and check it, I have never seen that before especially on something as close tolerance as an oil pump. After all a brand new engine is at stake here. He might have used a remote pressure pump of some kind to prime the engine rather than spinning your oil pump.

 

Thanks. I will check tomorrow.

 

All electrical work today the first picture is kind of fake. I am going to redo my shared power and ground lines. The first iteration didn’t have enough slack and I used terminals for screws not blades. I had the option for both, but blades will be easier. There is no ground to the speedo, so I’m going to check whether that is through the housing. If that is the case, I am planning on putting a grounding strap from the speedo to the firewall and grounding the rest of the instruments off the speedo.

I got most of the engine compartment wiring done. I need to reinforce the battery tray and put on the fenders to finish up the wiring. I’m not doing any painting until it cools down, so I will be rolling with grey primer fenders!

Light switch is actually installed. There is a set screw on the knob that keeps it from spinning off. Ask me why I know that…


I got most of the wiring started for my ignition switch. The switch is a little smaller than 3/4” and my hole is 1”. I’m not sure why - either it is an aftermarket thing or I didn’t check my cad drawing for the dashboard. Another thing to research. I think I am going to use a 1” nylon washer as a spacer and see how that does. My harness has a wire that goes from the ignition switch to the radio fuse. I’m not planning on putting in a radio, but having it hooked up may simplify things for the future; I just need to check whether it will cause a problem if there is a power source going to a fuse with nothing attached downstream.

 

Go ahead and run it. That fuse could not care less. You can add any load you like later. A blender maybe.