52 M38a1 Build

Alright a few updates. I’ve got the 33s sitting in the garage with the 2.5” lift springs. I have a Saginaw power steering box coming, should be here tomorrow. I attempted to get the engine and transmission final locations done today but I ran into some problems. The slave cylinder I have doesn’t mount to the bellhousing I have so I need to find another slave cylinder or the correct gm bellhousing. My dust cover doesn’t fit my current bellhousing. I got the van exhaust manifold installed and it’s going to be dang close clearing my frame rails and steering shaft. I took off the old mechanical clutch and brake assemblies today. Hanging pedals were acquired recently as well. I didn’t make the progress I wanted too today however, it did discover some new problems. More to follow soon.

 

Been a while since I’ve given any updates. Not much has changed as far as progress goes. Babies and marriage slows things down at times lol. However, I’ve found a set of wide track differentials, or so I’m told. Dana 44 rear with posi, and what appears to be a Dana 27 (closed knuckles) but wide. 4.10 gears. 11” brakes.

I have my Narrow trac Dana 30 sitting under the Willy’s waiting for a re gear. Or I can get the diffs mentioned for a reasonable price and less than what I’ll pay to regear the 30. Will I regret getting rid of the 30 and going with these? Overall they’re better than what this 52 came with but not as good as this 30.

 

Go with the 30 for the front. Waaaay more better in every aspect than a 27 or the front 44

 

I initially thought I was looking at a Dana 30 Wide trac and Dana 44. Then I noticed the closed knuckles. The width is what throws me off? Did they make wide Dana 27s?

 

The closed knuckle wide front is most likely an early 44 front.

 

The wide closed knuckle 30 is most likely from a very early 70s Wagoneer.

If it's a 27, it could be 60s Wagoneer or early Jeep truck/wagon.

 

That is correct. I use HP tuners and just turn off the VATS and swap the transmission section to manual. Then put in the correct gear ratio and tire size. It takes 4 credits to do that which cost $100 to buy.

If you leave it as is, you run the risk of the ECM going into "limp mode" because it can't read the transmission.

It is also worth pointing out, that the later model 4.3's the Vortec years, which his is, have a different flywheel which has a two piece throw out bearing and works with the external balance. They are not the same as what you find on a common SBC.

 

I decided to go carbureted for now until I am able to afford to get a quality pcm.

 

I’ll definitely let you know what I find out Monday.

 

Turns out I bought a set of early Wagoneer axles with 4.10s. I don’t think I’ll be able to get the front diff centered under the Willy’s properly. Has anyone put these under their early CJ?

 

Memeber BadGoat did that a few years back with a TDK frame. It looks like he partially outboarded the front springs to make it work: Project Old Goat - 1965 Cj5a Restomod

 

Where did you mount the tank? The M38A1’s have a v shaped brace that supported a machine gun. Did you cut that V out?

 

yeah I will wind up cutting that out.

 

Keep in mind that is a structure support, so you will have to add something back when you get the tank figured out. And let me know if you remove and want to sell the original fuel tank. My 52 was missing when I bought mine.

 

Yes I will add a new support to replace the V bracing.

The tank is available and for sale. I’m in Tucson, Az though

 

I made my own full custom frame, so I did not have to deal with that.

 

I’d like to build a custom frame for mine one day. Current garage space won’t allow for it, though.

 

Engine, trans and t case finally set. Now the intricate work can begin.

I seem to have forgotten how to post pictures.

 

I have been wondering how you were coming along. Any progress is a good thing.