52 M38a1 Build

The computer will still work, just not as well. The crab style distributor is a lot smaller, but youre still going to need to push the whole assembly a bit forward. cant change or adjust timing on that style by moving the distributor. I used the mechanical fan, but if you went with electric, you might get it all to fit as it is.

Another issue is the FI requires the pressure and return fuel lines back there and its really a bad space in a jeep to get to.

My 2000 safari/astro DS exhaust did not work for me and I went with a 95-02 blazer DS manifold. I have like 1/16 clearance with my steering shaft.

 

Are you using the stock tank under the seat? I want to keep it as simple as possible but also know the tbi in the long run is better than running the carburetor.

 

No. I put a stock CJ tank in the rear and made my own inlet/outlet and fuel pump holder. I used AN fittings throughout and tried to use all off the shelf stuff. I used the fuel pump for an astro van because they are available and cheap, but to do so, I have to remove the pump from the stock holder. Its way too big in that configuration.

 

I have thought about looking for a stock cj tank. I’m curious if I can get enough pressure with an external pump and then run a return line to the stock tank off the regulator?

 

You will pay more money for substandard fuel supply. To do again, I would fab a tank with integral fuel pump sump and forget about modifying the one I had... unless I bought an expensive kit. Either way is work, but one custom built for this application would be time saved.

 

I used the stock underneath tank for my tbi system. I had issues with fuel sloshing. I modified a boat fuel filter to be gravity fed by the tank. The filter bracket has a bunch of fittings for the return line, feed from tank and a vent to purge trapped air and an extended pick-up tube.
Basically this recirculates the return fuel and is topped off by the tank. It is assumed the fuel will carry air which will be separated by the wet filter media and float to the vent. When there is no fuel entering from the tank the level inside the filter lowers until it pulls air in the extended pick-up or the tank gets fuel to it. I have not done any tests but it lasts at least a few minutes under load.

 

What fuel pump did you use? This filter is before your pump? Or after?

 

I used the inline pump that came with my kit from affordable fuel injection. Pump is after the filter assembly.

 

You mentioned the computer still working just not as well if it’s not reflashed? How much will I affect drivability? I’ll obviously have trouble codes but will it over fuel or under fuel? I need it to be fairly reliable. I’ll take the kids to school in it sometimes and drive it work. It will drive to locals trails as I don’t have a trailer right now.

 

I can’t speak to its drivability, since I had the VATS and all the transmission stuff turned off. I was told they don’t really flash it, but disable some parts that aren’t used. It’s not like it’s a big deal to get it running then disconnect the 4 connections if you decide to have it done.

 

Fair enough. Looks like I need to work on get a wiring diagram tracked down and get it wired up.

 

Does anyone know if 33x12.50x15 will clear with 2.5” lift springs? I know my turning radius will be worse than it already is with the Dana 25 but I have a Dana 30 that is going in pretty quickly.

 

I’m running 33’s with a 2.5 YJ lift. No problem with fronts but the rears get into the rear part of the rear wheel openings. I’m running a DAna 30 up front and it doesn’t get into the springs.

 

How do you like the Yj lift? I’m debating it. I can source everything locally for it.

I figured they might get into the rear wheel well. Worth trimming them or is it negligible? I haven’t swapped to the Dana 30 just yet. Still saving for gears for it.

 

For me, switching to the YJ springs was one of my better improvements. They flex well giving me lots of articulation. I know there are a lot of members that get good articulation from the BDS, I personally think I’m getting more out of the YJ springs, also a little more work to get up and running. I didn’t take any measurements before switching springs, just seat of pants feel. The trimming of the wheel wells is on my list to do, I know it’s going to cause me a lot of work , (body work and paint), that’s why I haven’t rushed into it yet, they self clearances for now. The Dana 30 is a nice upgrade, helped with turning radius. It’s not cheap converting to the Dana 30, even if it was free. Gears, locker, bearings, ball joints, unjoints.

 

The turning radius for me is terrible with a Dana 30 and 4”YJ springs . I run 35/12.50x15. It’s super annoying so I got some 2” wheel spacers to solve it. Now it’s fine. I cut the rear wheel wells to fit the tires.

 

I’m sure I will need to trim the rear wheel wells which with some cancer being in there isn’t so bad. The Dana 30 swap will be costly for sure but worth it in the end.

 

Are you running power steering?

 

Yes. PS PB too.

 

Awesome. I’m going to try and locate a PS box. I’ve got a hanging pedal assembly with master cylinder and brake booster that’s going in soon.