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Oil Spraying From Fram Filter Canister

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by HellaSlow, Jan 2, 2023.

  1. Jan 2, 2023
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    Okay, now I see we were both saying almost the same thing, on that issue.

    But since there is that escape route, I doubt he'd be blowing gaskets.
     
  2. Jan 2, 2023
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Yes, but that function is there to provide augmented vacuum to the wipers. In my OEM service manual it is labelled as the "vacuum pump."
     
  3. Jan 2, 2023
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2024 Sponsor

    Burbank, CA
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    Interesting! This jeep had a complete frame off resto about 10 yrs ago. Since then, Its sat and been rarely driven (according to the last owner). So All the rubber would be of new stock anyway. The Radiator hose is a bit "crunchy" and the grommets on the valve cover top are crumbling. :D So I was thinking I'd just replace hoses and rubber bits as I go since they are probably made of new age wimpy rubber haha.
     
  4. Jan 2, 2023
    vtxtasy

    vtxtasy oldbee 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    I had to replace almost every seal including the front main rope seal and and oil pump gasket. The rubber seals were rock hard and lived a better life than a lot of people. Temperature Controlled environment.
     
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  5. Jan 2, 2023
    ojgrsoi

    ojgrsoi Retired 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I have experienced the same thing. As mentioned before I would start it up and see where the oil is coming from. The way the spray is on the front of the dipstick tube I would guess it’s from your canister. You should see that at an idle.
    One thing that was a problem for me was the incorrect bolt on top of the canister. Your bolt looks correct. I also went with a WIX filter when I replaced my filter.
    Another issue I had was the oil return was partially clogged.
    Pick off the easy stuff first.
     
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  6. Jan 2, 2023
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
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    O.K. I was guessing from what I thought is saw beforehand.
    Your latest description of where the oil is has changed things a lot in my mind.
    If it was excess crankcase back pressure then the back side of the air cleaner and firewall behind would be notably wet with oil.
    You say it’s only wet on either side of air cleaner which implies the oil is being sprayed back via the fan.
    So then it most likely is coming from either the oil fill cap or the oil filter.
    If the oil filter gasket is bad that should be obvious when removed.
    It is very common to see oversized oil canister gaskets that do not fit properly.
    First thing is to remove the oil filter top and inspect the gasket for a good fit.

    For those who are wondering and FWIW the dual action fuel pump has both a vacuum side and a pressure side.
    Vacuum to the wipers and pressure to the pcv/ intake manifold.
    I suggest you do not replace but rather remove the positive crank valve dis-assemble and clean it internally. They do not wear out.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2023
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  7. Jan 2, 2023
    kenb

    kenb Cleverly disguised as a responsible adult

    Detroit
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    https://cj3b.info/Tech/PCV.html

    I'm still not understanding how exactly the double action fuel pump aids the PCV system. The way I understand it the pump isn't adding to the vacuum drawing gases out of the crankcase.
     
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  8. Jan 2, 2023
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2024 Sponsor

    Burbank, CA
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    Me either! Would love clarity on this before I pull the trigger to buy a new pump. For now I'll be cleaning the current PCV rather than buying a new one too. Would I Just be unscrewing it and soaking it in carb cleaner?

    Was it the hose that was clogged? Or the hole in the engine itself?


    Also.... Per oldtime's comment....
    Should I be trying to figure out another way to plumb the PCV? The jeep was restored and configured like this 10 years and 2 owners ago. I'd imagine If the routing of the plumbing was wrong someone would have noticed before now? Or am I just suuuper lucky? :D
    I'm totally open to changing it if that's the problem but there seems to be conflicting opinions here about it.

    On that note.....The previous owner gave me boxes of stuff to go with the jeep and I just found the old fuel pump that was on the jeep before the restoration. It's also a single action pump. Looks a bit different and has a metal top rather than glass but there are no pump/vacuum ports on it either. Not sure if that helps but I figured I'd share in the spirit of helping the detectives solve the mystery haha.

    YOU GUYS ALL RULE! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR INFO SO FAR!
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2023
  9. Jan 3, 2023
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    My opinion, free and worth every cent...

    You don't need the dual action pump unless you are running vacuum powered wipers.

    Your PCV plumbing looks to be fine as is.

    Cleaning the PCV can't hurt and may help. Washing it in cleaner should work. (They *can* be dismantled, but be very sure to remember which way the internals must be reassembled.) But it may be just fine as it is.

    If I were you, I'd first correct the oil leak, at the filter cannister. Clean the mess. Then take a deep breath, have a cup of coffee, and maybe everything else will be just fine the next time you take the jeep out.

    One thing at a time, and it it ain't broke don't fix it!
     
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  10. Jan 3, 2023
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    Just another suggestion. Clean up all the oil that has previously leaked as best you can, the whole engine, firewall, everything.
    A couple cans of brake cleaner and paper towels/rags works wonders, just watch out so it doesn’t attack the paint.
    After everything is clean and dry, remove the fan belt, and start it up. You can run it a couple minutes from cold with no water pump, but keep the time short. Hopefully, after a minute or two, you can see where the leak is coming from without the fan blowing it all over everything. If the leak is slight, you can “feel” around with a clean paper towel for areas where the leak might be coming from. The paper towel will quickly show you if there is a leak.
    -Donny
     
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  11. Jan 3, 2023
    Jw60

    Jw60 That guy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Fwiw excess crankcase pressure will overfill the oil bath air filter with engine oil. That's not the issue.

    Replace the rubber line on the bottom of the Canister with a hard line using brass 1/8npt to flair fittings and get a new oil filter with gasket.

    Wash the engine bay and floor. remove the fan or just the fan belt. Run it for 5-10 min or less if it starts feeling warm. Turn it off and look at it after lunch.

    I'ld put money it's a little weeping on the Canister fittings or a dry rotten oil line.

    The pcv system looks correct.
     
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  12. Jan 3, 2023
    ojgrsoi

    ojgrsoi Retired 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    As many have said, I would start it up and see what you see. It won't hurt anything-just a little mess.

    My situation was with the lower hose on the oil filter. The fitting on the timing gear cover was clogged causing the oil to back up.
     
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  13. Jan 3, 2023
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2024 Sponsor

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    OK COOL! Pardon my ignorance but is that hard oil line something I can buy premade? Or would I be making my own with some sort of kit? I dont have experience yet with hard lines.

    COPY THAT! Taking a deep breathe currently haha. As far as the PCV goes, Is there a way I can confirm it's working, after cleaning, while it's still uninstalled? like by blowing through it or getting some internal piece to move?
     
  14. Jan 3, 2023
    Jw60

    Jw60 That guy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    It would be a diy recipe. Take the old flex line into the parts store and match the length. You would want to get a hand held tubing bender.

    My motor had the filter moved for a hydraulic pump so I can't just copy it. but it had hard lines instead of rubber.

    Fwiw this is what it looks like when the gasket for the filter housing fails on highway 30 in front of the J.M. Smucker Co store in Orrville Ohio.
    Good times!
    [​IMG]081607_11071 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
     
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  15. Jan 3, 2023
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Often in these situations standard steel brake lines will work or can be adapted.
     
  16. Jan 3, 2023
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2024 Sponsor

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    :rofl::rofl:
    I dig the snail trail! Haha
    Atleast you ended up at a place with amazing jelly!


    Ok great! can I use the same tubing for my fuel lines as well? I had posted another page about trying to install a fuel pressure regulator, and will probably need to include hard lines for that project too.
     
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  17. Jan 3, 2023
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Brake line and fittings are probably identical to the OEM.
     
  18. Jan 3, 2023
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2024 Sponsor

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    Ok cool! I’ll make a trip to the parts store asap! Should I be using 3/16 or 1/4 brake line?
    What about steel vs copper?
     
  19. Jan 3, 2023
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I think you will find 1/4" line is original.

    Do NOT use copper. Copper work-hardens and gets brittle/fatigue under vibration.

    If you can make your own lines with a double-flare tool, a cupro-nickel combination is available and well recommended as being a pleasure to work and bend, and corrosion resistant.
    https://www.brakeconnect.com/4-reasons-to-use-cunifer-copper-nickel-brake-line
     
  20. Jan 4, 2023
    HellaSlow

    HellaSlow Member 2024 Sponsor

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    Oh wow! That stuff looks awesome! maybe I’ll grab a double flare tool from harbor freight and see if I can give it a crack!

    this week I have a long list of to-do’s and this is right at the top. I’m excited to learn this new skill so thanks in advance for the input so far!

    I’ll try to do the fuel lines and the oil line at the same time. Fingers crossed!
     
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