Update--Something just 'aint' right!

All right... Heres the photo to remind everyone... I just bought her last week from the original owner. It is a 68, with a rebuilt Buick 225 engine. He rebuilt it 5 or 6 years ago thinking he would start to use it. However, being 70 plus years old he really never used it. He thinks theres only 1000 miles on the new engine, meaning it sat under car cover for the last 5 years or so. Anyway, It started up right away when we did test drives, and it ran fine. Now, a week later its real hard to start. It actually died at a stop sign yesterday and I had to wait it out for it to start again. What do you guys think of an engine that has been sitting that long with very little activity. Some things to note:

A. I know nothing about engines! (as you'll soon see)
b. new carburetor--however I see that the "nipple like" device haning from the choke area has been taped over. Theres no hose connecting it lower.
C. When I took off the air filter and look at the fuel line...when I hit the gas pedal, fuel only drips out one or two little drops (no spray)
D. Fuel filter looks old
E. Oil was full, but oil filter looks original (not really...but olllldddd)


I guess Im just hoping that it was sitting there unused for so long that maybe the fluids have changed and "gunked" up a bit. That seems like a fairly easy fix.

Anybody have any suggestions, as I dont want to take it to a mechanic who may advise to things not needed.

Thanks!

Ken

 

Gunked up carb, almost for sure. This may not be the total problem but a good place to start and could be alot of the problem. Get a rebuild kit and disassemble it and clean it up.

 

What Patrick said also. There also could be moisture in the fuel tank.

 

based on your own words, I'm inclined to think the acclerator pump has dried up/shrunk. The older pumps/cups are leather and can dry up and shrink. A new one would come in a carb kit. A looksey inside the carb is in your future, ready or not.

 

All great ideas, heres another one to think about. Disconnect the fuel line going into the fuel pump and try to blow back thru it. Maybe varnish clog in the tank getting into the fuel line( I just went thru this) You said this has a rebuilt carb, my question is how long ago was it rebuilt and how long has it sat idle since. I would definately look at the fuel system. Start with the easy stuff such as fuel filter and carb cleaner, then let us know and we can help from there. The better the infornmation you can provide, the better the chance of a proper diagnosis.Let us know what you find. Good luck

 

What about old gas too?

 

Thanks guys...

Answers:
1. Im ***-U-MING that the carb was rebuilt when he did the engine about 5 or 6 years ago. Theres a sticker on the thing that reads "remanufactured carb".

2. Old gas is a possibility however it was low when I got it, so I filled it up right away. Would this mean moisture in the fuel tank--hmmm?

Ill take a looksie in the carb and see if I cant learn how to "clean it up" as you say. As long as Im not having to get a manual on "How to replace an engine" Ill be happy.

Thanks,

 

No spray in the throttle body could mean 1. blocked passage in carb, or bad accell pump, but this wouldn't mean it won't run, it would just stall when accelerating. 2. no fuel in bowl, three possible causes here. Blocked fuel line any where from tank to carb, bad fuel pump, or stuck float in carburator. Silt, rust can migrate from the tank and lodge in the fuel pump valves causing little or no fuel to get to the carb. A lot of fuel filters are between the carb and fuel pump so they dont protect against that problem. 5 years is a lot of time. Gas as it sits has a lot of solids settle out along with evaporation, varnish deposits on the internal components. Modern fuels have solvents in them that desolve light accumulations of varnish. Dormant fuel systems with varnish in them frequently experience blockages whem the placques partially desolve in the fuel lines or float bowl and the go to the passages and throttle jets.

I would get a remote starter or some means to crank the engine and check fuel flow to the carb, (this usually means disconecting a fuel line between the carb and fuel pump and looking at the delivery of fuel, this causes, if successful a quantity of extremely flamable liquid in the engine bay: CAUTION sparks etc may cause explosion and needless entertainment of neighbers or worse yet, spouse. R) ) if it looks like arterial bleeding out of a scifi movie, pumps good, get a three pound maul or any other rochester/carter carburator fine adjustment tool and attempt to free the float by gently tapping on the carb body, because the carb is the problem. Plan or a rebuild or replace. If you rebuild be very, very, sure you clean, clean, clean and then soak the dirty rascal and clean again. Your cleaning will loosen very thin deposits of nearly clear varnish, or paint like deposits, if they are not removed totally then afterv a shoert while of imersion in new fuel they will float free and block fuel passages causing you to suspect the ignition, after all wasn't the carb just rebuilt?

Sorry about being long winded.
Just my 2cents based on personal experience Good luck

 

With all this being said, I think you have a good basis for diagnosis. check it out and keep us informed.

 

And by all means change ALL the fluids in the JEEP.

 

C: Sounds like the choke isn't hooked up right or may not be adjusted. This can cause it to start hard and/or die out at stops. If that "nipple like" thing is what I think it is, there should be a tube from the air clearner down to the manifold, and from there back to the choke (some systems used water from the cooling system here instead). But the idea is to pass either air warmed by the engine (or coolant being warmed by the engine) to open the choke faster. And the choke has to be set just right or you'll get the symptoms you describe.

D: Replace fuel filter if you are at all unsure.

E: Change oil and replace filter if you are at all unsure.

Stan

 

Ken, there is a lot of good advice on this thread I would also like to add buying a Factory Service Manual would be very helpful.

http://stores.ebay.com/Faxon-Auto-Literature

 

Most definately....as soon as you get it home. It allows the two of you to "get aquainted".

 

I aggree with just about everything said here but one item seems to be left out.................what about the NEW gas? In my part of the world the reformulated gasoline that we're forced to use will dissolve some of the components in your fuel pump & carburator. The diaphram in the fuel pump, accerator pump & possibly even the seat on the float are all vulnerable to the solvents in the new fuels. The accerator pump on my Holly just disolved last month so I had to buy a new one. I went to a parts store the sells enough stuff to reduce the chance of buying another "old" one, as the new fuel system components are made from materials that can handle the $hit gas we have aroung here.

 

I thought we had all the $hit gas here, in California!

 

NY too!

 

**********UPDATE**************

Heres what Ive learned (heres whats been done):

I changed the points
changed the vacuum advance
changed the ignition coil
changed the plugs
changed the plug wires
cleaned the carb
changed the oil and filters
changed the diff fluid
adjusted the clutch
changed the fuel filter
added new fuel
hooked the choke back up

I also learned that its easier and less time consuming if you just pay the "pro's" $186.00. Man that thing fires up nicely now. It sounds NICCCEEE.

By the way, they inspected the brakes and every wheel cylinder is leaking. One actually had a drip coming out when they showed me and each were just CAKED with old crusty stuff. I have to decide whether to replace them now, or in a couple months. As I brake, I have to push extremely hard, and it feels to me like metal on metal...however the brake shoes are brand new. Also, it seems as though when I coast to a stop the brakes are rubbing or making me stop on their own. Dont know if this is related to the wheel cylinders or not. I just want to be able to stop without doing a 450 pound leg press each time.
Anyone have a problem with their seat being too close to the steering wheel? Im trying to find a solution, smaller seat, something?!?! I feel like Im a sardine!

Thanks for the suggestions...I do follow your leads.

Ken

 

Good to hear you are in business again. As for the brakes, welcome to jeep ownership. If you do a few searches on this forum you will find brakes are a common issue. I suggest a short search and go from there. Knowledge is power ( not to sound like a cliche') But its the truth. Get up to speed on the subject and it will help you make the right decision for your situation. I would get them up to speed asap. Also might consider a disk brake conversion. Much better than drum brakes.