Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Fireball, Jun 20, 2022.
I'll raise (or lower) you a spacer!
Water pump is sub optimal:
Small project tonight while waiting for parts.
Since the carburetor was missing the adapter arm, I checked to see if it was getting full throttle. Nope, this is with the pedal to the floor and the throttle opened all the way. The pedal is about 1/2" short and the throttle was only opening 60% or so:
Here's the adapter from a spare carb:
The spare carb had a bolt to hold the adapter on:
The carb on the Jeep has a pin with a e-clip groove swedged into place. I couldn't get the adapter to fit tightly with just the e-clip, so zip-tie to the rescue for now. I've got a rebuild kit coming for the spare carburetor and I'll swap it on in the future:
Now It gets full throttle before the pedal hits the floor. Speaking of the pedal, this doesn't seem like the right type for a '68. It's similar but not the same as the one in my '71 with a hinge at the bottom and a pedal that pushes on but isn't attached to the rod:
My '69 has the pedal suspended on the rod and it doesn't touch the floor at all:
I remember MOP.
Parts are coming in for repairs. Now I have the radiator, water pump, bell crank, bell crank rebuild kit, drag link rebuild kit, and horn rebuild kit.
I've been very happy with the quality of Champion radiators:
But shiny aluminum doesn't look right in a ratty old Jeep, so I painted it black. I did this with the '69 radiator 3 years ago and the paint is holding up well:
Started removing previous owner installed stuff we don't want/need. First was the tow bar:
After breaking half the bolts holding the bracket from the bumper, I was met with this:
Sigh. Every little thing always takes longer than you think. Time to get dirty with the Benchmark Abrasives cleaning disk. Finished one off in the process:
Such a dirty job:
Cleaned up good enough for this Jeep:
New bolts to keep the bumper from falling off and a coat of Rustoleum:
I hate the too wide, too far forward winch mount. It will get mounted behind the bumper at some point in the future.
My wife took the new Jeep for a spin around the property yesterday. She likes it quite a bit:
Did a few more things with the new blue Jeep today.
First was spraying it with bleach and hosing it out to get rid of the rodent urine smell in the tool box:
Then I replaced the semi-functional cabinet lock in the glove box door with the later model Omix replacement I had kicking around:
I also removed the cigarette lighter powered defroster.
Then I addressed the still-messed-up throttle. The plastic pedal was rubbing on the rod such that the load would transfer from an inch down the pedal to the top of the pedal as you applied throttle. This changed the ratio and caused stiction making it hard to drive smoothly. I'll look for a proper pedal, but in the meanwhile, I'm going to work with what I have:
While trying to adjust the throttle height the welds for the throttle arm broke and I had to redo them. My welds are seriously ugly because it was hard to clean the weld area and I was having a hard time seeing. Seems strong in spite of my incompetent welding:
I bent and welded this nice curved end to pedal rod. It gives the pedal a single contact point with a curved surface that wont' move up and down the pedal too much and won't dig in:
With a little bending and lubricant the pedal travels smoothly through the full travel with predictable throttle application:
After that, it was time for the normal tune-up checking on a newly purchased rig. When warm with the choke in it wanted to die at idle.
I checked to make sure the vacuum advance diaphragm was not leaking and functional. I also verified the centrifugal advance was free and checked the cap/rotor:
Then I set the timing. It was only 5 degrees at idle. I bumped it up to 12 degrees (with the vacuum advance plugged in) and set the idle speed high enough it would stay running. The driver's side idle screw was turned all the way in and the passenger side was almost all the way. I adjusted them which brought the idle up. Then I reset the idle, reset the timing, and adjusted the idle screws again. After a few rounds of this, it's idling happily at 650 RPM when warm with 12 degrees of advance. It's running much better now.
After that, I addressed the seats. I put Smittybilt seats in the '69 and have been happy with them. For this Jeep, I ordered Rugger Ridge seats that look almost identical to the Smittybilt seats figuring they were built in the same factory. They look nice:
But the bottoms are much thicker than stock and thicker then the Smittybilt seats. To make matters worse, there are very firm and you don't sink into them at all. You end up sitting way too high in the Jeep. I'm either going to sent these back and order some Smittybilts or make some custom brackets to lower them a couple inches. God forbid it would be easy to bolt in a pair of seats.
someone has replaced this with a newer version on this setup. What is on the blue Jeep is correct.
The throttle arm looks like it has the set screw dimple for a hanging pedal.
The mod looks very similar to what I needed to use a f-134 pedal.
Roy, you know the obvious answer to that. And you have more than sufficient space.
Pulled the seat brackets so I can return the seats and order some Smittybilts (and hope they are the same as the ones I put in the '69 5 years ago). I'll get them boxed back up tomorrow night.
While I have the brackets out, I thought it would be a good idea to pull the tank and see how bad it was under there. Didn't look great and was still wet from hosing out the inside over the weekend:
After a bunch of scraping and trash removal, it doesn't look as bad as I though it would. I'll hit it with the cleaning wheel and squirt some Rustoleum over it for now:
Managed to snap off one of the gas tank strap screws. At least it's above flush. It's soaking in PB Blaster overnight and with the tank out I can add some heat. I think it'll come out without drilling:
Floor seam is a little crusty but that's not getting fixed right now. Just looking to get the thing running and driving decent for the moment.
Yep. Penetrating oil, heat from a propane torch, and some vice grips took the broken bolt right out:
The floor still needed some cleanup:
Better after hitting it with the cleaning wheel:
This ain't great but it's beyond the scope of getting the thing running and driving well:
A coat of Rustoleum to slow things down for now:
Gas tank cleaned and ready to go back home:
I cut up a serpentine belt for spacers:
Back where it belongs. Now waiting for some Smittybilt seats to show up:
The Post Office wants $239 PER SEAT to ship back the useless Rugged Ridge seats! That's for $160 seats. Will check with UPS/FedEx tonight. The Rugged Ridge seats may end up on Craigslist. If any PNW members are interested in a set of brand new Rugged Ridge low backs, let me know. I'll be in the Seattle area this weekend.
Swapped out the rotten shift boot while I was at it.
After (I had a leather boot left over from the '71 4spd project):
I'll have to figure out what to do about an OD boot some day. Maybe I'll try to find some matching leather and sew something up.
Well UPS wants $159 per seat to ship and Fedex is $171. That as much as the seats cost. The big retailers definitely get better shipping deals than us peons. Guess I'm not returning them. On Craigslist they go.
While I'm waiting for the Smittybilt seats, I decided to start working in the cooling system.
Real actual patina. Neat except this time I don't want it:
Saving it for a possible re-core in the future.
I REALLY did not want to break any of the small water pump bolts or strip the holes in the front cover so I applied heat and penetrating oil before touching them:
And still broke one:
But with more heat, more penetrating oil, and some big vice grips it came out:
Bypass hose removed and it's ready for cleaning when I get back to it:
The usual mess:
I have a list of other tasks to do while the coolant is drained:
Rebuild the steering bellcrank while the top nut is easy to get to.
Remove the block heater. It's an old external one they plumbed into the passenger block drain plug and hooked into a heater hose with a tee fitting in the manifold. Don't need it. It's just something to leak someday.
Pull the heater box out and paint it black. I hate that someone painted it ford blue. I also need to replace the flapper door seal while I'm messing with it.
If you were from south of our southern border you would have another 50K on that water pump!
The Smittybilt seats showed up. I'm beat from doing yard stuff all day long but found enough energy to test fit the driver's seat:
This will work. It's just enough lower and softer than the Rugged Ridge seats. The passenger seat bracket will need about 1 3/4" of height cut out of it to match the driver's seat. I think I have a plan for that.
Plenty to do, but I'm calling it a night because I'm so tired.
More odds and ends with the '68.
Worked on removing the block heater. It's the red can below the battery. We'll never use it and it's just something to leak:
The top line Tee'd into the rear heater hose:
The bottom line was screwed into the passenger side block drain in front of the starter:
It was mounted to the toe board brace. Seems like it was a decent install when it was new:
The tee in the intake manifold has been replaced with a standard heater hose fitting:
The bottom fitting unscrewed and left a 1/8" NPT nipple in the block. There is no easy access to get a monkey wrench on it without massive disassembly so it will get a cap instead of a plug:
Next was pulling the heater box. Ugh, they used so much silicone on the thing. Miday though scraping silicone:
Spent a good hour scraping piles of silicone off the heater itself. The core looks fresh which is nice:
After some Scotch-Brite, sanding and Rustoleum, it's looking better:
I hate cooling system work. Every time you remove another component, shake the Jeep, or look at it funny, more coolant leaks out. Between the heater, heater hoses, water pump, block heater, ...etc. the mess under the Jeep keeps getting bigger:
I wanted to tackle the steering bellcrank while the radiator is out. Easy access to the pivot pin nut:
Simple tool for unscrewing the drag link nuts. Cut a piece of 1/8" stock to fit:
...and use a crescent wrench:
I cleaned up the old bellcrank and removed the bearings thinking I would use it instead of the repo one I have:
But, the ball is pretty far gone, so I'll use the repo bellcrank:
And now I'm at a standstill on this. I ordered a 1 1/8" bellcrank rebuild kit assuming it was the same as the '69. But nope, this '68 V6 has the 7/8" pin. New kit ordered:
I'll pull the drag link next and get it all cleaned up. The steering box seems reasonably tight, but I've got an extra TightSteer I'll throw on it.
Now is a good time to make the heater recirculation work right.
I've thought about it but we've driven both the other Jeeps when it's in the low teens and never been disappointed with the stock heaters. Between the heater and all the heat coming through the floorboards, they've been comfortable enough.
Got the drag link out tonight.
Pictures of the assembly order for posterity. Rear:
40 minutes of scraping and scrubbing later, it's ready to go back in the Jeep:
The only pieces in the rebuild kits that look better than the original parts are the rubber seals where the balls go and the spring clips that hold them in place. I'll reuse the old stuff for everything else.
There is a little but not much on-center slop in the steering box itself. I'm going to band-aid it with a TightSteer for now and rebuild it some day in the future.
TightSteer installed. We'll see if I like it or end up rebuilding the box in the near future. The box tightened up decently without the TightSteer so I don't think it's in too bad of shape internally:
Heater box is back:
Battery bungie cord replace with actual hold-down:
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