11” Brake Swap Question.

I bought a 11” conversion from Willy Jeep parts for my front axle on my 57 cj5

When I stripped everything down my drum and hub were already separate with the drum being on top of the hub.

The instructions for my swap say the hub goes on the outside of the drum. (Is this super necessary?) so I need to press new studs through the drum into the hubs


I need to press the the old studs out of the hub. Would they have swaged the studs into the hub?

 

Gonna try and upload some photos




Instruction photo
6-AC8-DDC1-5-AE4-40-EF-A018-8-B70-A7-F6244-F

 

Ah okay. I might just do what the distributor said and put the hub on the outside, I’d rather not deviate from there plans.

If my drums and hubs were already seperated by a previous owner would you think it would be safe to say the studs that are currently in my hubs are not swayed then?

 

Some off the cuff history on variations of the brakes, no promise of accuracy.

The WW2 Jeeps, and the CJ2A Jeeps, and other Jeeps from that era had the Lockheed brakes as are contained in your "kit". These all had the four eccentrics for adjustment, with the drum mounted inboard of the hubs.

The M38 and later CJ Jeeps had an improved design, I don't know whether it was Wagner or Bendix, brake system with only two eccentrics, and the drums mounted outboard of the hubs. A big Improvement, but still manually adjusted brakes.

Somewhere around the late sixties or early seventies the CJ Jeeps were outfitted with a Bendix design brake system that was self adjusting. This was a major improvement.

I have done a bunch of these 11" brake conversions on old Jeeps.

IMHO, It is unfortunate you ordered this particular kit. I have seen these kits out there and always thought it was a rip off.

The better 11" brake conversion is to use the Bendix design as used on early 70s Jeeps, Ford Broncos, IH Scouts, and some DJ5 Jeeps.

These old style Lockheed brakes in your "kit" are a PIA because they do require the drums be mounted inboard of the hubs, the studs have to be swaged, and they are not self adjusting as are the Bendix design. The four eccentric adjusters are a real PIA to fool with. It is like going back in time to the WW2 Jeeps.

That said they will work fine if that is what you want to do, and are willing to put up with the regular, and tedious, manual adjustment they require.

That said, if you can return them and get a refund I would recommend doing so, and try to get a set of the Bendix backing plates and use those instead. The advantage is the drums are mounted outboard of the hubs, and they are self adjusting, just a better design all around compared to the old style Lockheed brakes.

The Bendix backing plates are getting scarce, but I have managed to find them by searching Ebay and the classifieds on several Jeep forums. I do have more of them than I need, if you want to go that route. The ones I am willing to sell are rusty, with some pitting, but they are straight, and will work fine. If you want a pair of them I will sell them cheap. But nice ones still show up on Ebay from time to time if you don't want to fool with cleaning up rusty old ones, and all the other parts such as drums, hardware, cylinders and such are available at any decent auto parts store.

 

Yeah life would be so much easier if I could return them but I bought em like 2 months ago. It’s alright. As long as I can stop I’m happy.

is there any way to be 100% sure my lugs on my hubs are swagged on? I’d like to do as much work as possible before I pass em off to a machine shop, but not destroy anything in the process. Honestly finding a machine shop in my area that will swag might be tricky.

 

Two months shouldn't prevent a return as long as you haven't hurt the parts.

But, if you can't return them, I understand not wanting to waste the investment you have made.

If your Jeep had outboard drums then you will need to press out the wheels studs and replace them with the studs made for inboard drums which have a longer splined area. QTM has them.

Search for a Youtube video by "Metalshaper" to see how this must be done. It is easy to ruin the hubs doing this if not done right.

Yours probably are not swaged, as the outboard drums are not intended to be, so you should be able to knock them out with a hammer being sure to support the hub to avoid bending it.

The rusty front backing plates I have are no worse than the one on the right in Howard's picture, though I have a pair of rear plates that are a little worse, but these things are pretty heavy built and even when badly pitted are plenty strong enough.

Good Golly! I just looked at the price of that kit you bought. I think I am in the wrong business.

 

Is there a Honorable mention regarding the 2 that I sold You ?

 

That is truly CRIMINAL that someone would sell those as any kind of "upgrade" Unfortunately there are those out there that are willing to rip off anyone they can to make a buck.

 

Ya it’s a bummer in hindsight I wish I woulda researched a little more but at the time it seemed like the best “all I one, everything is here kit”

As Long as I can get a shop to swedge my studs and my Jeep can stop it’s not a total loss

 

I bought some NOS adjuster cams to make sure that it wasn't me adjusting them incorrectly. They are a pain when new much less when they have been abused for the last 75 years.

 

Lockman,

Yes, that pair of plates were the best ones I have ever managed to find, and very much appreciated.

I have them loaded up and ready to install on my 67 CJ5, sometime this coming week if things go according to plan.

They are why I offer the ones I was going to use to others for a low price.

 

Your a Good Man, Sir

 

I might be naive here. But what is to stop me from just sliding the hubs on and putting the drum on the outside?

 

You will leave the brake lining exposed and have 11 x 1 brakes.