Any Fix For A Loose Side Mirror At The Mirror's Pivot Point?

Hey guys...any help greatly appreciated. Anyone have a good fix for a loose Side mirror pivot point? I've restored the originals but what I assume is a set screw doesn't tighten things up enough to hold the mirror tight. Anyone have a pic of the mechanism under the mirror? That may help me understand how that phillips screw tightens things up in there. Any other 'fixes' let me know. Not interested in replacing these with new or aftermarket.

 

Mine have three screws, and they tighten the friction on the ball end. However the plate inside can get distorted enough so the grip range is no longer fit for purpose.

 

If it’s trash otherwise I’d hit it with a center punch around the opening. Distort it enough to be sticky.

 

I believe it’s just a ball and socket, and the screw smooshes them together to create a friction fit. If the screw doesn’t work, there is a slight chance you can pop the glass out and lock the ball and socket together using epoxy.

Or you could probably put a small spot weld on the visible part of the ball to lock it in place.

But personally I’d just buy a new one. You can get a pair for under $25, probably even cheaper if you shop around. And they have three screws so they will stay tight: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ST9PTM9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V7F6TY0HZ4FH39SR2BE3

 

ummmmm...

 

that link is for a wrangler, not a CJ.

 

I know. But the mirrors all mount the same and will fit on OP’s existing arm. Just buy the cheapest mirror set and ditch the new arms.

 

yes I saw that. But unless OPs original mirror has some sort of value I’m unaware of, replacing makes the most sense in this case. Floppy mirrors are unsafe and new mirrors are cheap.

 

It’s a factory part I would assume. his Jeep is a restoration back to stock.

 

and reproduction psarts are NOT known for quality.

 

This Is a Typical issue in design . Your OEM's are most definitely a thicker & better qaulity steel than the repro's , hence the OEM design of 1) locking screw vs 3) needed on the repro's. One can literally see & feel the differences , on a side by side comparison.
To save this, It's on you, but I know you can do it.
I suggest that you R & R your OEM locking screw, mostly 'cuz the # 2 Phillips head is booger d , then adjust to where you like it & tighten.
Then, bare metal clean the ball & socket area & apply a 2 part epoxy. after 24 hours of curing time, you can touch up with paint. It shouldn't move after this is done.
My Repro's move in the Hi-way wind , but that's what I've got. I need to take my advice on mine.... soon.
Good Luck.

P.S. I'll say it again...... That is one impressive paint job , that you have on your Rig .

 

Epoxy on both areas or just on the ball?

 

I say.....Experiment. ! Epoxy between the Ball & socket would be the best bet. One does not need a lot of it.

Ya Know..... The other design problem is that one cannot get a straight access to the hold down screw, 'cuz of the end of the arm. I reckon that the best bet would be a # 2 ' L ' head Phillips driver , on the Fresh screw , along with the epoxy ?

 

With the ball loose try to get some epoxy into the socket.

 

It's priceless to me. After almost a 2yr frame off not about to cheap out now. Or replace them. But total get where you mind's at. On any other jeep/project I'd ditch them too. 74 Cj5 Renegade Restoration... Progress & Pics

This may be the ticket... I can get the wire up in there while also keeping the mirror in the right place I need it. Thinking slow feed, medium/low heat. Just to get a good quick hit on it. Start on the ball, drop down to the outer metal mirror. Figuring the mirror metal is thinner than the ball joint. Sand, repaint.

Agree definitely pulling that screw out (both sides similar). I buggered them up by trying to tighten them up. I like BoopiJ's quick tack idea. But think maybe you're onto something too with epoxy. Tack holds in place so I can take it back off then epoxy sets it in for sure. Sand, Paint and hope. I have to say the Renegade yellow paint did come out amazing. Today I took it out for the first real drive. Gas station, around the block, drug store. Nothing long ... just to test it out. And sunny day... It was looking sharp! Still several things to do.

 

I think I’d try loctite cylinder sealant before welding. Loctite is anaerobic, so it will only harden inside the ball/socket. It might even work well enough to restore normal operation.

I’d be worried a weld would hold too well, and it would damage the works the first time it was bumped.

 

x10 on that. The repros I've seen don't hold even when new.

 

Great Idea! Did not think about Loctite. I used the anaerobic Loctite for the Harmonic Balancer / Oil seal Ready Sleeve. Not sure it will hold enough on this application. But in order of "easy to try"...this is at the top of the list. It is worth a try at least. Maybe the Loctite will hold enough to remove things and use the epoxy. I still do like the quick small spot weld. I think for this jeep, bumping it or hitting it after the weld won't be a factor. So no worries about ruining something inside.

I also don't like the repos shape. They are more square, where these OEMs are a rectangle.

 

The philips screw is there to adjust the tension of the swivel. The housing shell gets stretched from use and you end up where you are. The ball stud has a triangular plate on the inside behind the glass, held by the rivets/screw. Its supposed to clamp tension on the ball stud, but yours has been bent/distorted so it no longer takes up sufficient tension.
Is your glass held in with a rubber gasket, or is it crimped in the metal housing? If rubber, you may be able to remove the glass to get to the triangular plate to bend it flatter.
I doubt there is enough surface area for epoxy/locktite to be effective, but you might not have much to lose.
I think Grote is the manufacturer of that mirror, so that may give a direction to search.
-Donny

 

Great information on the inside workings of that joint. Thanks Donny. Unfortunately mine are crimped at each corner like a dimple on the shell. I only wish I would have had this part in mind before I sent for new mirror and then painted things. I wasnt' thinking at all about whether they actually held tight. Think I have several great ideas to try now.