71 Wheeling Rig

It's only because I've spent the last 3 months organizing the shop. So technically this job took me three months and 8 minutes.

 

Great project. I took the 64 apart for floor board repair and wiring rebuild. Years later, it's still in pieces.
Not gonna try to do all those fixes at one time anymore.
You do good work and interesting write ups.
I'm Following this thread.

Dave

 

[QUOTE="Fireball, post: 1771634, member: 94303]Fixed until I finally buy the new pedal.[/QUOTE]

Nothing's more permanent than a temporary repair.

 

A clean shop is a sign of a sick mind.

 

That is for certain. I purchased an aftermarket hood for my 3B back in the 75-76 time frame and of course it didn't fit for crap. Soooo, Saturaday night special-built up an aluminum frame and pop riveted a sheet of fiberglass over it for a temporary fix. That fix stayed there for about two decades, duct tapped patches and all. Some of that framework still resides under the current version.


I had a similar problem with my home brewed throttle pedal in my 3B for most of a decade. It only got fixed last year when that got remodeled and I put a "Z" strip under it to retain the roller.

 

Need to finish a couple other projects before I get back to working on Jeeps again but I can keep gathering junk in the meanwhile.

Picked up a narrow track D30 for the '71. It's already got 3.73s so I'll give it a going through, probably put in an ARB locker, and switch to disks with some Chevy caliper brackets I already have:


Might rebuild the 11" brakes on this axle to put in the Rear in place of the 10s on the Jeep. Or I might not. Sounds like a lot or work for not a lot of real world gain.

 

Do the backing plates have holes for parking brake? Might be worth the trouble if they do. I’m very happy with my 11” rears

 

When I redid my 30 I put discs on it. I moved the 11” brakes to the rear, ( just replaced the wheel cylinders for rear ones) I really liked the upgrade to the 11” brakes over the 10”. For me it was worth the effort.

 

No but I still have the transfer case parking brake on this Jeep so it doesn't really matter. As noted by Rozcoking23 I would just need to put the smaller sized rear wheel cylinders on them.

 

Consider the calipers and master cylinder you will be using before committing on rear wheel cylinders. The rear may not need the smaller bore if you end up using something like k10 calipers.

 

I'll second Jw60
I am running midsize GM calipers up front and 11" drums on the rear with the 15/16" bore cylinders. Even with the drums adjusted tight I would prefer just a little more rear brake.

 

Worked on one of my own screw-ups today.

When I did all the work getting the radiator into this Jeep, I *thought* I left a 1/8" gap between the cowling and the radiator core.

I thought wrong. One of the tubes has rubbed through and is just starting to leak. You can see it bubbling the paint:

I could smell anti-freeze when driving and I hate the smell of anti-freeze.


Since it's a tiny pinhole and the radiator is fairly new, I'm attempting to repair it. I don't have anything to loose. If it doesn't work I'll can buy a new $200 radiator. I'm not really in the mood to drain the radiator and pull it for this small repair, so I worked on it in place. The coolant level is below that top tube and I let it sit a week allowing the leak area to dry out. I simply undid the top bolts and tipped the radiator back for access. Yep, a nice gouge in the top tube:


Ive had mixed luck with JB Weld so I'm trying this AlumBond that seems to be reasonably well recommended by radiator professionals:


Cat is helping:


Sanded, degreased, and patched. We'll see if it holds:


With the hole plugged, it was time to address the real problem of things rubbing. To allow for more space, I made a rubber spacer for the upper mount from left-over floor mat material:


Then I took a chain saw file and slotted the holes in the upper cowling. Right hole done, left one still to go:


With everything re-assembled, I've got well over 1/8" clearance now. I'll throw some more coolant in it tomorrow night and we'll see what happens.

 

Nice repair. I have tried gas welding aluminium without sucess an expensive condenser coil. A lot depends on the composition of the material , rod and flux
used. It needed to hold 600psi. Saw a guy demo welding a soda can with a small hole from an ice pick and a miniature oxy/acetylene torch. I was impressed.
Keep us posted on how this holds. Seems like it would work on brass too. Good luck.

 

Those guys are good aint they........Ive ruined a few cans trying to do that.....I better stay at my day job

 

I looked into the aluminum solder sticks, but radiator tubes are so thin I'm pretty sure I would destroy things trying. The epoxy seemed like a much better chance of success.

 

This was at Johnstone Supply. They guy probably had a lot of practice. I think the trick is the tiny pin-point flame. I am not sure what the price is on
that small torch set and if it could be justified for a one time use. I suppose if you got proficient at it, you could weld brackets on an aluminium radiator.
Learning tig welding and getting a tig welder is on my bucket list. Even just to play around.

 

I just got my Grandads Soldering iron out and heated it with a torch and soldiered up a hole in a brass radiator tank,I have a hard time trying to soldier with a torch on thin stuff....and I have ruined my share of radiator tubes.....hope the epoxy works....

 

That works! A big iron I take it. I have brazed miles of copper. Brazed copper to steel, brass to steel and steel to steel and stainless. Soldered miles of copper and know that old flux
that has been sitting in your garage or in the heat of your work truck does go bad. Having the right product for the job goes a long way.

 

I did not know that.....I remember something about tinning an irons that filing the iron and covering the tip with soldier....I have a severe case of CRS

 

That’s a long Swedish nut lathe .