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'65 Rubicon Rig

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by timsresort, Dec 27, 2020.

  1. Dec 10, 2023
    timsresort

    timsresort Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2014
    Messages:
    1,334
    Now very careful to not lose any bearings, pull the rack piston out. I have a tray under it, some will stay in the housing, but most will be inside the piston.
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    I used a magnet to fish all the balls out. If you lose one of these, you are tossing the whole thing, so very careful. The instructions I had said 24 balls, and I could only find 22, 11 of each color. (Some are glossy bright, some are dull gray). Take my advice and don't google how many balls you should have, but it turns out 22 is the right number for a small bore box like this.
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    Next is the pitman shaft bearing snap ring. It was stuck in there good.
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    I got it out in pieces, I really needed better internal snap ring pliers, which I now have coming from Knipex. The kit I'm using from Edelmann has new snap rings.
    [​IMG]
     
    jeepstar, Rubicloak, Stakebed and 8 others like this.
  2. Dec 10, 2023
    vtxtasy

    vtxtasy oldbee 2023 Sponsor

    Tucson, AZ
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2006
    Messages:
    1,240
    A lot depends on what your time is worth to you. Rebuilding is not that bad. There is some liability involved if your steering decides
    to make a hard left or hard right turn. Ask me how I know, though it was on a gear that sat for many years and was not rebuilt or
    driven. Don't loose your balls. Not sure what the different colors are. Maybe some are blue.:rofl:
     
  3. Dec 11, 2023
    Mjragan

    Mjragan Member

    socal-Simi Valley
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2010
    Messages:
    89
    This is the factory(Kent More) tool for taking that piston out and reinstalling it. You can use any 5/8 OD tube or dowel. It makes it a lot easier to reassemble the tool goes into the center of the piston and holds the bearings in place as you insert the piston back into the gear box, the bearings go back together light/dark, light/dark, ect
    15535F10-B17F-4081-A2A9-F9B153813725.jpeg
     
  4. Dec 14, 2023
    timsresort

    timsresort Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2014
    Messages:
    1,334
    Next, drive out the sector shaft bearing and 2 seals.
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    I kept it all in a stack to remind me which way it goes in. The torrington bearing is directional, the letters go in the case first. (Drive from the non-letter side)
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    Next pull out the stub shaft, valve body and worm shaft.
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    I am going to drill and tap this for ram assist, like what we have with the 3-turn box currently in the jeep.
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    Some layout for the holes. The left one goes on the casting seam, the right goes centerline with the long drilled passage that you can see the casting bulge for, as well as the plug put in at the factory after drilling.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Dec 17, 2023
    timsresort

    timsresort Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2014
    Messages:
    1,334
    Clamped it down, started with a 1/4" bit on the way to 7/16".
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    The right hand hole goes all the way through, the left hand hole goes into the passage, so it's kind of shallow.
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    Tapped the through hole with a 1/4 NPT x 18 pipe tap, and I used a second tap to make a bottom tap for the blind hole.
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    I cut off 4 or 5 threads, started the first tap, removed, then used the bottom tap to go the rest of the way.
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    This is the kit I'm using, either Summit or Amazon.
    [​IMG]
    Now, some assembly required, is an understatement. But it looks much worse than it is.
    [​IMG]
     
    jzeber, Fireball, Jw60 and 2 others like this.
  6. Dec 17, 2023
    Lilbuff63

    Lilbuff63 Member 2022 Sponsor

    Sonoma County Ca
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2014
    Messages:
    279
    That definitely looks intimidating!
     
  7. Dec 18, 2023
    timsresort

    timsresort Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2014
    Messages:
    1,334
    I organized all the small parts, to the area they go to. I also thoroughly cleaned the housing, ready for reassembly. On the rack piston, there is one big O-ring with a teflon shield that goes on pretty easily, with a liberal amount of PS fluid on everything from here on out.
    [​IMG]
    The piston could then go in the box, if it would go, but it won't go, with a new fat O-ring.
    [​IMG]
    Solution I saw online- wrap with tape to protect the teflon, and add a "ring compressor" made of a hose clamp, over night.
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    While I'm waiting for that, I reinstalled a new sector bearing, then the 2 seals and washers and big new snap ring.
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    Next I followed the instructions for the valve body, input shaft, worm shaft. Several O-rings, 3 on the outside with teflon rings, that are a little bit of a struggle. Just keep it lubed up at all times. There is one little sneaky O-ring internally, but the diagram shows it. Also the new input bearing and seals can go in.
    [​IMG]
     
    3b a runnin, tymbom, blalp! and 6 others like this.
  8. Dec 19, 2023
    timsresort

    timsresort Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2014
    Messages:
    1,334
    Old and new input bearing, seal, dust shield.
    [​IMG]
    Over night the O-ring compressed enough to get the rack piston in. It still takes some force, but it's in.
    [​IMG]
    Then the valve body with all its new O-rings, input shaft, and adjuster nut slide in the other end, and just start the threads on the nut. Lots of lube again.
    [​IMG]
    Then I got the piston lined up to accept the balls. I will put them in the left hand hole, one at a time, alternating color, the first 14, 7 light, 7 dark. As I put them in, I rotate the input slightly to get them to rotate around the worm.
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    On my next one, I would line up all 22, alternating in a line, that way I can't forget the last color I just put in. But this worked. After the 14 go in, they will eventually appear in the right hand hole.
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    Next, load up the little tube with the remaining 8, alternating.
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    Tyrap the halves together, and cap the ends with grease to keep them in. The tyrap tail acts as little handle to get the tube in over the 2 holes.
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    With all the balls in place, I carefully cut the tyrap, and install the little clamp that holds it in place. Turn the input, it should travel freely though full travel. Exhale now.
    [​IMG]
     
    blalp!, 3b a runnin, Stakebed and 9 others like this.
  9. Dec 21, 2023
    timsresort

    timsresort Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2014
    Messages:
    1,334
    I tightened the adjuster nut at the input shaft, (sorry no photo), but I put it back the the stake marks I put in during disassembly. Then install the new sector top brass gasket, the O-ring goes up. Bend the tabs over the body, then center up the gear, and slide it in. Torque the top cap bolts.
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    Install the big O-ring behind the front cover, tap the cover in, then the big snap ring.
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    2 quick coats of satin black, and some pipe plugs in the assist holes for now. This thing is ready.
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    I found another one of these 800 boxes, so I am going to go through it also, while it's fresh in my mind. I think I'll either keep the first one as a spare (probably wise, as they are not getting any more plentiful), or sell it if the right person comes along. The second one will go into Sierra next week when Nick is here for the holidays.
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    Merry Christmas, everyone, I hope you all have a wonderful holiday.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2023
    73 cj5, tymbom, Andrew Theros and 9 others like this.
  10. Feb 18, 2024 at 9:20 PM
    timsresort

    timsresort Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2014
    Messages:
    1,334
    Back to getting the new 4-turn box in the tux. It finally worked out that I could get Nick up here on both of our days off coinciding. Drain it, disconnect the lines (4, since it has hydro assist), remove the 4 bolts to the frame mount.
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    Put a pitman puller on the pitman arm, and cranked on that thing with an impact. She no move. So about 3 seconds with a torch on the arm, and bang, she's off.
    Then I remembered the bumper has to come off, as it's too tight of a fit to drop out the bottom. Not a big deal, 8 bolts, and the winch thankfully can stay with this setup.
    [​IMG]

    We transferred the hydro line fittings to the new box, and cut off the little nub that sticks out on the input shaft. Not sure what that's for.
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    In with the new. This will be a much-anticipated upgrade to this jeep.
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    Out with the old big bore box. rebuilt by West Texas Offroad, AKA Redneck Ram. Nothing wrong, and Rubicon tested. I may sell it if anyone wants a pre-drilled and tapped Saginaw box.
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