Cj-2/5 Tjs-10 Dakota Build

To me it looks like the door is bolted right to the windshield frame and that meets up pretty good with the corner of the top. I will have to do a little more research. I like the top, it has big windows, the door side glass rolls down at some point it was insulated.

Its a Kemco All Steel Cab Ser No. F 2A 3A 300A

 

so the w.f. is at 15* relative to the cowl but it measures at 68" from the top of frame to top of tailgate. the 15* sounds about right according to the nets but it should be closer to 66.5" which if it was it would make that fit worse. as it would be leaning back even more.

Edit
I wonder if its a 5 top

 

A 5 top would have perfectly straight sides since the windshield is the same width as the body. It looks like yours angles in a little over the door openings so it would have to be for some sort of flatfender.

 

@1947cj2a I really like your wheel color. Just read the whole thread.

 

thanks! I was actually going for a more red color but its grown on me.
Edit,
picking up the doors from a buddy that was storing everything. will see how they all fit.

 

Went to the paint store and got a sample color matched in Krylon direct to metal oil based paint. I think its pretty close. Since I dont plan on adding body filler i was just going to paint with the Krylon. I have a pretty good idea of how its going to turn out but then again not going for anything special. the body has so many dents that i would have to bondo the whole thing and at that point i wouldnt want to take it out into the woods.


I am also going to give a shot at making my own seat covers. the brother in law has a sowing machine as the mother in law so i am going to see if i can borrow it. Thinking of just making slip on covers and adding some 1" high density foam.


Started on the cage. 1-1/2 x 0.120" DOM tubing. made three hoops. two will go to on the rear fenders and one will go across the windshield frame. with some tie bars. Thinking of attaching the front hoop to the dash, similar to the way my TJ is. Also picked up some three point belts from the Pick and Pull from a WJ. If i am going to have a cage I am going to have seat belts.


and finally took it for its first drive. I promptly ran out of fuel down the street from the house, dog was not amused. and this is where the problems started.
it started acting like a carburetor when starting off from a stop i had to feather the throttle. I suspect its the fuel pump?
the other issue is that the clutch got progressively worse and now wont go into gear. even with the rear tires on jack stands and in gear i can push in the clutch and the tires wont spin.


The throw out bearing is coming out i think its at about 1/2" of throw. however i can not spin it when the pedal is not depressed. it also spins when the engine is running but not engaged and i can not slip in any feeler gauges between it and the clutch fingers.

I was planning on taking the body to paint so I will be investigating it further once that happens. I will call Tilton Eng. and see if they have any ideas for trouble shooting.


I really wanted to do an external slave cylinder with a clutch fork but due to the two big pumps on the side of the transmission I was not able to. I did contemplate cutting them off and re welding the case in the very beginning

 

Make sure you have some slop in the clutch pedal when it's released. It almost sounds like it's not returning the clutch master cylinder all the way to release the pressure.

The Jeep looks fantastic by the way.

 

Thanks!
I am pretty sure i had free play in the clutch, I also have a physical stop on the peddle as Tilton says no more then 1" of travel on the master cylinder. In the picture above you can see some pitting/scarring on the slave/throwout bearing. that might have something to do with it.

Also for that brief time it did run it was great, i had a smile on my face the entire time even with out a windshield in 40*. tons of power and very responsive, steering was tight and easy to turn even at a dead stop. once i get the last of the bugs figured out I know it will be a very capable/versatile vehicle.
I also need to re think my shocks, I dont think the JK ones are going to cut it. its a very bouncy ride.

 

I was out of state on a job assignment so not much work the week before. I was able to figure out the high idle and stuttering. Apparently the computer needs a VSS signal (vehicle speed sensor) pretty much i need to hook up the speedo signal some how. So iam thinking if there is no after market solution for a pass through cable adapter to electronic connection for a ChyrCo computer I have two options.
One use a TJ/XJ wheel type build a bracket and have it driven or spun from the E brake drum. If i have to use the Dodge one build a bracket but modify the ring that Dodge uses from the rear differential once again make it fit on the e brake drum. I dont need it to give me accurate speed i just need to satisfy the signal.

I did get the cage all done. just need to finish welding once i pull it all apart for paint. I build the cage so it should fit underneath a hard top if I ever go that round. I do plan on welding or bolting up some sheet metal as a bikini top. I also plan on installing some three point seat belts.












This will all get trimmed ground down once its off and finished welded. I really couldnt come up with a good way to attach the cage to the dash. I could have done with out the front hoop but wanted to be able to run the sheet metal as a bikini top. plus more protection is is always good.
I also made plates on the back side on all attachment points.

 

It might look like I am just starting this build but it was time to take it all apart again.
Fix some oil leaks in the running gear, trouble shoot the clutch, come up with a VSS to keep the computer happy, and paint the body


Hopefully I will never have to do this again







I had Herm rebuild these and put them all together for me many years ago. once I added oil to everything it started to leak right away. leaked out of the seals on the PTO, from mating surfaces anywhere where it could leak it leaked. I cant blame him since all these sat for so long.
I had pretty good success on my 5 when I resealed it many years ago. The only place it leaks from is from the one spot on the oil pan where i pinched/tore the gasket

 

color matched up pretty good.


It turned out about as well as can be excepted...really close to original Picket Gray
Still need to paint the fenders, hood, W/F, tailgate a few other small things


installed transmission with out bell housing to triple check the clearance from bearing to clutch. made some small adjustments.


started reinstalling running gear after re sealing, cut a hole in the bell housing to help trouble shoot in the future. Got as far as re installing the O/D unit and realized something is missing.


Missing oil scoop.
at least I only put a couple of miles on it, it was still packed with assembly lube, and i am glad i took it all apart to re seal. this could have been expensive.

Also cleaned up the wiring a little bit and found my VSS sensor wiring, glad i didnt cut that one out.

 

Finished painting everything, on Saturday i drove down to Daryls and picked up the missing oil scoop for the OD unit. I ended up canceling the check i sent for the gaskets. I think I am done sending checks... Made my own gaskets for the PTO and PTO adapter and figured out what oil seals the PTO output shafts needed. Took Sunday off from working on the Jeep and took the wife and dog for a Sunday drive on the ferry to Poulsbo WA then to Port Townsend WA, it was nice to take a brake.


Painted, starting the reassembly


OD unit back in, PTO ready to go in. home made gaskets.


Maritime museum in Poulsbo WA


Matching color scheme to the 2A...

Light house in Port Townsend WA built in 1879 I think, before WA was a state.