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Cj-2/5 Tjs-10 Dakota Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by 1947cj2a, Oct 31, 2020.

  1. Feb 5, 2021
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    I’m adding a post to try to get this thread to kick over to a new page. My horrible internet won’t load all the images before timing out. :banghead:
     
    baldjosh likes this.
  2. Feb 5, 2021
    45es

    45es Active Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

    Naches, WA
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    Mar 31, 2007
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    Here, this might help. :D Starlink You knew it was coming.
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  3. Feb 5, 2021
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2015
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    6,384
    If they’ll match my current monthly price, I’m in.
     
  4. Feb 5, 2021
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

    PNW
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    Nov 11, 2017
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    sorry about that, i dont know how to resize images. I just load up on Imuger and do it that way.
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  5. Feb 17, 2021
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

    PNW
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    Not much but a whole lot of sanding, the welder is still in the shop, trying to find all the odds and ends. having a hard time locating my windshield hinge bolts.

    [​IMG]
    wet sanding and cleaning all the old grime. I believe the original color is Picket Gray

    [​IMG]

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    Fender repair

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    New hat channel

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    Rust cut out

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    [​IMG]

    I already have the tailgate ready, next up is the grill and the windshield frame. The windshield frame is going to take some work. I want to at least primer it all at the same time.
     
  6. Oct 9, 2021
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

    PNW
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    Its been some time since I have had the time to work on this. Works been keeping me busy been home a total of 4 weeks since March. Its still going on, currently have the body back on the jeep. Getting ready to run the wires and making sure everything will bolt up. as with builds like this some clearance is needed...

    [​IMG]

    Decided to recess the tail lights and reverse lights

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    After I got done all the body/welding I think I am going to need, I brought the tub back to the front garage and placed it on the jeep to see what will have to be clearnced.

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    First thing, the OD unit to PTO adapter. Will have to fab something once the body comes off again for paint

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    Clutch pedal to hat channel

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    engine intake to drivers side fender

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    Its getting to be a tight fit. Realistcly I should of probably gone with a simpler 4cyl and a stand alone fuel injection unit. something something 20 20

    [​IMG]
    The drivers side fender Hat channel does not line up very well to the mounting holes. The passenger side was a no issue.
    I am scheduled to go to S. Korea tomorrow for work so will have to look into this when I return
     
  7. Oct 9, 2021
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    Forgot to add some things

    [​IMG]

    Battery tray needed some clearance as well, battery will have to be moved around a bit to make it work

    [​IMG]

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    Also needed to raise it a little bit. also wanted to make it a bolt on part as room is getting scarce.

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    A lot of light sanding but the original color is coming back
     
    Stakebed, 73 cj5, melvinm and 3 others like this.
  8. Nov 26, 2022
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

    PNW
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    I have not given up...
    Still working here and there on this project. recentlhy ordered a bunch of parts to re wire. new PDB, connectors and so forth.

    [​IMG]
    The converted air box, using an old LR Defender intake hose. actually a pretty good fit.

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    Mounted the computer using riv nuts

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    finished up the acc pedal, using part of the old Dodge Dakota pedal assembly.

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    I also cut about 2.5" from the clutch and brake pedals. I never liked the angle my feet were at. at full stroke these are just above the floor boards. it also puts the brake and acc much closer together.

    [​IMG]
    also using riv nuts mounted the clutch reservoir

    Need to finish up wiring
    finish up fuel line
    I also had to order a new fan as the factory Dakota one was sitting to close to the radiator and engine.

    Sorry for the big pics but the site i use to host changed the settings and I have no idea how to re size any more.
     
    Stakebed, Buildflycrash, Jw60 and 9 others like this.
  9. Nov 27, 2022
    jeepstar

    jeepstar Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

    Sheboygan
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    Jun 28, 2006
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    Good to see an update. This is a neat thread. 2 years in my shop and I'd still be in head scratching wondering why i would attempt something this challenging phase.
     
  10. Dec 11, 2022
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

    PNW
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    I think I am just about done with all of the mechanical stuff. accidently ordered the wrong fuse box so have to wait for the new one to arrive then the electrical can start.

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    Since i have a manual steering box I really dont need the power steering pump or oil reservoir. however i am having trouble finding an idler pully from a none power steering engine in this vintage.

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    So i took the box apart and noticed that there is a sealed bearing on the pully side. so i could run the box like this but have no way of supporting the end of the shaft. I could cut the shaft down, the other issue is i would have no way of keeping the shaft from walking back. I will either machine something to fit another bearing on the back side then cut a grove for a snap ring? or cut the shaft and hope for the best?
    This and figuring out a way to run heater hoses is the last of the mechanical thats left.

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    the dakota fan wasnt going to work. it sat way to close to the radiator and too close to the engine. I pulled it out and went on reworking the whole thing with an aftermarket fan.
    test fit with no trim work on the extra material, 18 gauge steel.
    [​IMG]
    new skiny fan fits right at home

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    with the old fan i only had about 1/2" of clearance to the thermostat and about that much to the radiator. everything is held in place with riv nuts. really starting to like those things.

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    lastly was this hole in the fender to clear the intake, I really should of chosen a simpler 4cyl...
    used riv nuts to attach the cover

    [​IMG]
    and covered, it should clear the tire. when the jeep gets taken apart for paint i can clean up the welds and paint with the rest of it.
     
  11. Dec 11, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    I'd be worried about running the power steering pump pulley without the back of the shaft supported since the front bearing wasn't designed for that.

    It seems like a making a bracket to attach a generic idler pulley in the same spot would be better. Here's some options at Summit searching for 6 groove metal pulleys with hardware: https://www.summitracing.com/search...ending&keyword=Idler Pulleys&kr=Idler Pulleys
     
    Stakebed likes this.
  12. Dec 11, 2022
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    Thanks for the idea!
    I see the difference now, it's all about where the bearing is.
     
    Fireball likes this.
  13. Dec 14, 2022
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    Went to the local pick and pull to see what I could come up for a idler pully in place of the PS pump.
    Found a AC delete pully from a early 90s ZJ with the 4.0L that was the same diameter as the PS pully for ~$13.

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    new pully next to the PS pump. the aluminum spacer, washer and back up spacer came up with the pully.

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    The back up spacer will not fit over the shaft and it was to wide to fit inside the PS pump.

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    spacer machined and installed. note the two surfaces dont like to weld to each other very well.
    I also had to machine the weld off so the spacer would fit flush up against the back up spacer.

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    then the whole thing was welded onto the pump. this should prevent the shaft from spinning.

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    The end of the PS shaft was also machined down to give the spring washer the room. I dont know how much it matters but thats how it was on the vehicle I took it off of.

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    Reinstalled.
     
    melvinm, Stakebed, 73 cj5 and 2 others like this.
  14. Dec 14, 2022
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    I also finished up the Battery hold down and finally got the new fuse box.

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    the battery tray was modified to fit the battery I plan to use. I also utilized some left over parts like the hold, down, J bolt and another long bolt.

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    I didnt have a cupler nut so I welded three nuts together. and since I hate having random sized bolts next to each other I drilled out and welded the same size nut as is on the J bolt.

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    Eaton fuse box, 6 relays and 12 fuses. 6 fuses for each really. I went this way so I can also use factory looking plugs.

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    Note to self, check hood clearance tomorrow...

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    I am also using an Eaton power distribution relay. I plan to use this for the starter only, each out put stud is good for 70 amps. one will be on the starter, the other i dont know its blank for now.

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    For the alternator I went with a 140amp circuit braker from Napa

    I forgot to add, each power lug on the fuse box powers half the relays and fuses. so I plan to use one side from the battery to run the lights, brakes, flashers and a few things. that way i wont have to have the key on to use these.
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2022
  15. Dec 15, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Nice!
     
  16. Dec 31, 2022
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

    PNW
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    Got all of the factory wiring done. everything works.
    wired the horn to the fuse box, wired key power to the fuse box, wired the starter to the Eaton relay to the key.
    waiting for one more socket to finish up the passenger side turn/run light.
    Next is to finish up the engine wiring and make the 4 relays work.
    Then wire loom everything button up a few other small things, then take apart and paint the body, build a roll cage, rebuild drivers side seat. the list never ends.

     
    73 cj5, Rich M., blalp! and 3 others like this.
  17. Jan 3, 2023
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    Its runs!!
     
  18. Jan 8, 2023
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

    PNW
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    Got most of the wiring cleaned up. Temp wired the tach and ran a wire to where it needs to be hooked up but due to space that will have to wait till the body comes back off. the last wire to run was the wipers. all and all I am using half the fuse box. so 5 fuses and 3 relays, one seperate relay for the starter and another big fuse for the key to acc/ign.
    [​IMG]
    its pretty busy down there with all the wires but once i get some seat time and the body comes off for paint i should be able to clean up a little bit more. just need to make sure it all works first. I decided to do away with the AC pump for now, I might make it into an OBA system like my TJCJ. the plan for this is to just have my old jeep back but slightly better with the fuel injection.

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    The dash, the only extra things are the reverse light switch on the left of the steering column. I really couldnt come up with a very good way to have it come off the transmission. and the heater control there on the left bellow the speedo. I really wanted to come up with something for the choke and throrrle cables but nothing came to mind so i used some body plugs. the rest of the holes will be covered up by the data plate. I also wanted to re use my Amp gauge maybe make it into a volt gauge but hate ruining good classic gauges for an experiment. So i went with an after market Bosch volt gauge. All other gauges are stock and working.
    The only issue is the oil gauge, it wont come back to 0, if anyone knows a good gauge guy let me know. would love to get it fixed.

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    its been pretty tempting to throw the shifter back in and go ripping around but i am holding off to get the rest of the things mounted up give it a good once over.
     
  19. Jan 16, 2023
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

    PNW
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    [​IMG]
    all systems are a go...it didnt even throw any codes. Idles a little high but i think its idle control sensor. the truck i got this mess from had a high idle before i took it apart and i never changed out any sensors. conformed the fan turns on and off...which is nice.

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    got my new intake hose curtsey of a Land Rover 200tdi engine. its turning into a real soup.

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    I bought this top from a member on here, but I think it might be from a jeep that had a non foldable windshield like you see every now and then.

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    it sits forward about 1.5" unless my windshield is that far off.

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    its also wide.

    Currently trying to dissemble the windshield frame to replace the glass.

    waiting on an over flow canister for the radiator, new sensors to fix the high idle, and pin for the transfercase levers as i cant find my original after 10+ years of moving them around. also borrowed a tubing bender from a buddy and bought some DOM 1.5"x0.120 wall to give building a cage a try.
     
    melvinm, blalp!, Stakebed and 4 others like this.
  20. Jan 17, 2023
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    I don't know about the tilt mismatch, but a lot of the old flatfender tops had pretty wide fillers for the doors. For example on a different brand of top:
    [​IMG]
     
    melvinm and 1947cj2a like this.
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