While i've got the tranny and TC out

Is there anything else I should check or change? I read somewhere about replacing a bronze bushing in the flywheel, or something like that?

I haven't had any clutch problems that I am aware of (except for linkage issues from time to time). How do inspect the clutch?

My fear is to do all this work, then have something go out a few months later and be right back in it.


Plus I have a week or two to wait since I just sent my T86 rebuild kit back to Herm. Once he gets it he will put together a hybrid (T86 case/adapter and T90 internals) rebuild kit and send it my way. I've been wrenching every day for a week straight and it is bugging me not having anything to do now. I even played 9 holes of golf tonight for the first time in a few years.

 

Looks for cracks in the clutch disk (you have to unbolt the pressure plate) and in the flywheel. Also I believe that clutch disks have a min. thickness requirement just like disk brakes so check that as well. Resurfacing the flywheel while its all apart wouldn't hurt either

 

The only bronze part I can think Of is the pilot bushing. I just give it a visual when I pull my trans out, If anything looks out of ordinary, I start measuring everything. As for the cluch you have to pull it apart to check it out.

 

My pocket book is fine, my wife's on the other hand.....

Sparky, you know clutches? Although i've only owned manuals, the only clutch issues i've ever had were hydraulic related.


Anyone got any part numbers/recommendations for this stuff? I figure I might as well go big or go home while there is already grease under my fingernails.

 

I bought my clutch kit for my 71 from NAPA. It include everything needed to change all the clutch components: TO bearing, pilot bushing, new clutch disk, new pressure plate, and the alignment tool. All that was left to do was resurface the flywheel, which NAPA also did for me

 

I don't see anything listed at napa online. Oreilly auto has this:

FENCO/FENWICK AUTOMOTIVE PRODUCTS
DYP New Clutch Kit
1 per car. NU5472-1 Each $182.99
COVER TYPE: D - OD: 10.4" (264mm) x 1 1/8" x 10T SPLINE 1 YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY

Autozone has this:

CLUTCH SET-MATCHED for a
1968 JEEP CJ5

DURALAST NU5472-1 LLT $149.99

Are these decent quality?

 

I got the Napa kit as well. For some reason mine didn't come with a pilot bushing tho? but had all the other goodies Joe lists. Anyhow - my part number was MU5472-1. It set me back 2 C-Notes.

 

Thanks Bob. I called NAPA and they are ordering one in just in case I need it. The guy on the phone recommended the LUK brand clutch kit over their NAPA brand. It was also about $30 cheaper. Any complaints with LUK clutches? He said they were better regarded than the NAPA line.

 

i replaced mine with a luk... it's been through alot and is still hanging in there.

edit -- NAPA guy not pushing his own stuff?? that's got to be a first... i was told spicer didn't make u-joints and the napa one was top of the line once. wish i could stumble across your NAPA one day.

 

Instead of running a bronze pilot bushing, it may be possible to get a roller bearing type. They last longer and don't wear the input shaft of the tranny. If they're good enough for our Nascar late model, it's probably good enough for a CJ5

 

i got a centerforce dual friction clutch for the jeep, it didnt come with anything except pressure plate and clutch disk i ordered the throw out through napa and pilot somewhere else i dont remember but can't wait to install

 

i got a centerforce dual friction clutch for the jeep, it didnt come with anything except pressure plate and clutch disk i ordered the throw out through napa and pilot somewhere else i dont remember but can't wait to install

 

If your clutch was worn out, I'd say you have to replace both the cover and the disk (aka plate). Since this is more PM than anything, I'd say you can consider not replacing the clutch cover. Of course, I'd only suggest this if your clutch cover is nice and smooth, there's no obvious wear of the fingers (diaphragm clutch) or the spring pivots (Borg and Beck style?), and you don't see any blue spots or cracking in the cover or the flywheel. NB I'd only suggest this approach if money were tight, ie on a student's budget.

If you reuse the cover, I don't see any point to resurfacing the flywheel either.

I'd definitely replace the disk, throwout bearing and pilot busing, regardless of their apparent condition. The throwout bearing can often be a source of trouble, and the pilot bushing is too cheap not to replace it. Replace the disk because installing a new one will lengthen the amount of time before you have to separate the engine and transmission again.

 

I pulled it today and decided it is worn enough to go ahead and replace everything. One question, how do I hold the flywheel in place to loosen the bolts?

 

There's a pro tool that holds flywheels. I've always put a bolt in the block and laid a screwdriver across it, with the end in the teeth of the flywheel. Place one hand on the screwdriver and and the other on the breaker bar.

 

Thanks guys. I used an approach similar to what timgr described for the clutch cover, a socket extender braced against the frame, but was worried about damaging teeth on the flywheel if I braced against them. I'll give it a try tomorrow.