Overdrive With Pto Help

Trying to remove this overdrive. Can anyone tell me how to get the PTO extension shaft out?





Richard

 

There should be a star shaped snap ring in the shaft keeping a square bolt tight. Remove snap losten bolt.

How to Remove an Overdrive | Herm The Overdrive Guy

 

Thats the overdrive bowl gear planetary thats left in the T/C housing. That shaft should just wiggle out to get to the snap-ring and square tab lock.
-Donny

 

Sometimes the bearing on that shaft swells slightly and makes it difficult to remove. Try and wiggle it out first. If you cannot get it out any other way I have put the nut back on the shaft solidly and gently used a slight hammer to remove.

 

These instructions might help you understand how to disassemble it.
http://www.cj-2a.com/_Media/saturn_od-2005.pdf

 

The 6 spline shaft that is sticking out has a needle bearing in it that is intentionally a press fit into the planetary hub on all overdrives EXCEPT Saturn.
Normally you don't take the rear cover off, or the nut, and you are able to gently pry the housing back from the transfer case which will pull the shaft out for you.

As nick mentioned, if you slide the closed end of a box wrench over the threaded end of the shaft and put the nut back on, you can tap on the side of the wrench to overcome the press fit and pull the shaft out. Is is not attached to anything, but it will rotate as it comes out.
It takes an 1-1/16 open end.
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_3103_1_.JPG

If you don't have a wrench, I run a loop of gas welding rod, fence wire, or hanger wire through the cotter pin holes and swing an implement (hammer handle, pry bar, wrench, axle etc) inside the loop to tug the shaft out. THEN the job of pulling out the square snap ring, lock plate, and drive nut can be performed, and the bowl gear will slide right out.
You may notice I ran the nut on backwards to assure there wouldn't be any distortion of the cotter pin holes or threads.
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/IMG_3104_1_.JPG

Just for giggles, you might measure the , 'stickout' to see how it compares to the .677 reference I seem to hear so much about.


I do agree, Herm said it best as follows:
How to Remove an Overdrive
How to remove an Overdrive from a Dana 18 transfer case:
1. Remove the five 3 ½” mounting bolts that attach the aluminum housing of the rear assembly to the transfer case only.
2. You should be able to get that aluminum housing to come back a little, so that you can put a screw driver in between the aluminum housing and the transfer case.
3. Be careful not to damage the aluminum housing when you use two screwdrivers, one on each side to pry the casting to the rear.
4. What is happening is that there is a cage bearing inside of a part called a spyder blank, and this spyder blank shrinks and conforms to the shape of the cage bearing housing making it a tight fit.
5. You have to pry evenly because if you don’t you only make it tighter to remove. When you have it back far enough that your screwdriver is too small, then add a piece of wood for a shim and continue until it is removed. This is the only way to remove the rear assembly without causing possible damage to other parts.
6. Do not remove any other bolts or parts as they do you no good except to give you a bag full of parts that you my lose.

 

PS. Based on the step in the shaft, yours is a very old WARN unit. It takes a different output bearing, so if you are going to replace it, read the part number off the old bearing. It is not the bearing that ATV or Advance sell for that application.

 

Thanks all for the replies.

Richard