Detroit Dreaming

Good day Gents, I searched first, but to no avail,
Was on the phone with West Coast Differentials attempting to order a Detroit Locker when I was asked what my gear ratio was and what spline axle. I was hoping he was going to tell me this information but then realized how dumb that would be since the jeep is 36 years old, what are the chances that everything is still stock.
I told him that I would call back. I pulled the diff cover off and counted 44 grooves in the ring. I read 44-9 on the ring gear, so I am assuming the pinion has 9 grooves. Now, how do I figure my gear ratio from those numbers? I divide 44 by 9 and get 4.88, doesn't sound right?
I moved on to the axles to determine the spline. First, pulled one wheel off and after 45 minutes of trying to get the brake cover off, gave up and went to the other wheel. Pulled it off and and realeased the slack tensioner and then pulled the brake cover right off. Why do things always work that way???? Anyway, removed the cap, the carter pin, the big bolt the carter pin was through and now I am stuck.
I read up a bit and deternined that there was no C clamp or anything in the diff that had to be undone before pulling the axle, hope that part is right, so purchased a 6" puller from pep boys, hooked it up gave it a few turns, got real tight, then snap, the puller broke.

Ok, am I missing something here or do I need a super duty puller?

To sum up, according to the information above, can you please help with determining my gear ration? Can I assume that I have a 30 spline axle? If not, what is needed to pull the axle out, or what haven't I done to enable the axle to come out?

sorry for the long post, but here's a pic to make up for it:

 

looks like a 2 piece to me. should be 19 spline w/:v6:.

 

You need a real badass hub puller. I bought one through the Snap On dealer and it cost about $90. If those hubs have never been off they're gonna take some wallopin' to get them to move. I originally bought a puller from JC Whitney to try to get mine off and it seized up in the threads. You might try a tool rental shop to see if you can rent one. You're on the right track. The hub will come off and leave the axle in place. Then you can get to the bolts/nuts that keep the axle in.

 

I have been reading all night on how hard it is to pull the hub off. It sounds as if it's pretty likely the spline is 19. I am inclined to go with that and order the 3.92 & UP, 19 SPLINE AXLES Detroit Locker, 187S-12A. That seems like a whole lot of trouble just to look at the axle to confirm it is a 19 spline. Do you think I am taking too much of a risk here???

BTW, the lowest price I have found yet is $468 from drivetrainspecialists, anybody seen it offerered for cheaper?

http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categories/detroit-lockers/products/product-453.html

 

Give us a better picture of that carrier.

 

I have uploaded some pics on my webspace. Please use the links below. Each pic is approx 600k so dialup users may be a little slow to load.

http://members.cox.net/crawfordj/hub1.jpg
http://members.cox.net/crawfordj/hub2.jpg
http://members.cox.net/crawfordj/hub3.jpg

 

How about another shot of the differential, this time so we can see the carrier better? It doesn't quite look like an open carrier in your first picture.

 

ok, sorry man, not sure what "carrier" is so took my best guess, wrong again. Anyway, here are four more pics of the diff, hope to get the "carrier" in there somewhere.

http://members.cox.net/crawfordj/dif1.jpg
http://members.cox.net/crawfordj/dif2.jpg
http://members.cox.net/crawfordj/dif3.jpg
http://members.cox.net/crawfordj/dif4.jpg

 

Sorry. The carrier holds the ring/pinion gear and transfers the power from the driveshaft 90* from the driveshaft to the axles. It looks like you already have a powerlock limited slip driveshaft, so you might want to skip that detroit if its in good shape. It's good news for you!

 

You know, the first time I went out, I didn't even think it had limited slip in it b/c of the wheel spin, but I think it was just taking a while for the limited slip to kick in. I suspect that would be a sign of being worn out??? Can such a piece be refurbished???

So thought I would go with the detroit since it has such a great reputation. Always open for suggestions though.

Were the pics as good enough or do you think I could get a different view to see the carrier?

 

Pics are fine. Powerlocks are rebuildable if the gears are in good shape. If the spiders, side gears and cross-shafts are good, you can purchase replacement clutch packs for about $30. When you seal up the differential you'll need to add gear oil and a limited slip additive - this is important. I think you can find examples of brand names with a search. Equa-slip by sta-lube sounds right, but I'm sure others will help tell you what you need.

Herm the Overdrive Guy (www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com) can get the clutch packs. If it was me I definitely keep the powerlock for a good balance of off-road traction and street driveablity. I just spent several months finding good used ones for my '65.

Lucky bastard is all I can say!

 

Joel's assessment of the PowerLock (PL) is dead on, though it may help you to have a little more information.

Randy's Ring & Pinion has a good review of differential types: http://www.ringpinion.com/content/technicalhelp/default.asp?pid=128

While the PL is maybe the best limited-slip differential (LSD) available, it's not a locking differential. A locker does just that - locks both rear wheels together. Equal power is sent to each wheel, even if one wheel has zero traction.

A LSD sends some power to both wheels. The LSD has clutch disks in the carrieir that send some, not equal, power to each wheel. With a LSD, if one wheel is in the air, the wheel on the ground may not get enough power to move forward. It depends on the terrain. The LSD also has better manners on the street - no quirky jumps left and right, as sometimes with a locker. It's a compromise.

If you want the ultimate for crawling on big rocks, choose the locker. If you buy the locker, you can surely sell your PowerLock - they are highly sought after.

 

KC4MC -

I bought a monster hub puller to get my tapered hubs apart. I'm just down the road in San Marcos if you decide to pull the hubs your welcome to borrow it.

Bob

 

KC4MC, you're gonna love this place! You ask for advice; you get it in spades, with offers to borrow the tools you need! How cool is that? I whined once too often about a carb issue, now I have guy in Florida sending one to try out! A good Marine stationed in Hawaii offered up some speedometer clusters just because I mentioned I was in the market for a replacement! (It was a lotta whining) Oh, you're gonna love this place! I'm soooo far in debt to these guys for the help and support I've gotten, I think I might just rewrite my will!!

 

Steamer,
You are right about that. I was just thinking this morning that you guys could charge for membership to the board. I know I have paid for a lot worse help.

As it stands now, can't see how I can go wrong by rebuilding the PL, so I guess axle pulling is in my near future. Just have to get in touch with Herm or somebody to send me the clutch packs. If it doesn't work out for me then I will put in the locker. As it stands though, that was a pretty nice find that wasn't listed by the seller when I purchased the jeep.

 

The clutch packs can be purchased at anyone who deals with Spicer Products. Six States Distributing, Border Parts in California, Herm Tilford, R&P, Drivetrain Sales, etc., etc. If you can purchase them locally without having to pay shipping that would be the way to go. Try and get the all steel discs if possible. The other type uses a fibre friction material and don't last near as long and have to be soaked in the stinky Friction modifier before installing. Nickmil.