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'66 Cj5 Tux Resto-mod

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by truckee4x4, Jul 9, 2018.

  1. Jul 19, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    Body

    The body is going to be the hardest part of this build as there is a pretty substantial amount of rot and rust. That’s why it’s most likely going to be next summer’s problem.

    IMG_3429.jpg

    It is currently wrapped in a tarp in the yard, waiting for me to get to it hopefully next summer. I lose my garage workshop whenever it snows so the wife can park inside so the clock is ticking on this summer already. The plan is to get the tub soda blasted and then order replacement panels and channel from Classic Enterprises and slowly go through this and fix what I can.
    IMG_3433.jpg
    61619858871__A758B719-5264-423E-8E1F-2BE3B0F9C517.jpg
    IMG_3439.jpg
    This is going to be extremely difficult and will test my welding skills, and force me to develop some bodywork skills which as of now are completely non-existent.

    My goal is to arrest the rot, and try my best to end up with something decent looking that I can paint a correct color from 1966. The original color was Beige Gold Poly, and I happen to hate gold so eventually this Jeep is going to come back to life in either Presidential Red or Marlin Blue.

    I’m going to start with the Fenders next week, and see how it goes cutting out the channel and splicing it back in. They are pretty bad.

    I found a “new” tailgate from a 1967 CJ5 at JW for a steal, so I got that waiting in the wings to replace the OEM one that had two different spare tire mounts applied to it at some point.
    IMG_3382.jpg

    I'm also looking for a used under-seat fuel tank, so if anyone who ripped theirs out and went with an Rear tank has one to sell, let me know. Not sure where this one came from but it's not stock.
    IMG_3412.jpg
    Seats and Trim


    I’m pretty sure I have the original seats. They’re not in the greatest shape, so not sure what to do with them.
    Photo Jul 09, 6 09 03 PM.jpg
    I have a sneaking suspicion that it will be lots of money to have them refurbished.

    I do have a lot of the original Tuxedo Park chrome trim items, but a lot is also missing. I have:

    • Tux plates on side of hood
    • One V6 emblem
    • Hinges and latches
    • Bezels around headlights
    • Grab bar
    Missing and searching for:

    • License Plate holder (who isn't searching for this???)
    • Front and rear bumpers (and rear brackets)
    Had some good discussion in the Restoration & research forum about options for modifying Jeepster bumpers if I can't find one, so I am currently thinking about that. Fingers crossed I will be successful one way or another and if so I will have an almost-new US-made front crossmember to take off of my Jeep and sell to someone.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2020
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  2. Jul 20, 2020
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Thanks for writing all this up. I've been reading all your individual posts and it's fun to see a summary. I find threads like these great for ideas.

    The chassis looks fantastic!
     
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  3. Jul 20, 2020
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
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    I can verify this approach works very well. Several times people here have looked at a picture I posted, scratched their head and then helped me fix my mistake. (y)
     
  4. Jul 20, 2020
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    That was quite an update. Great work you’re doing
     
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  5. Aug 5, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Made some more progress over the last little bit will try to summarize and add some pictures. Thanks to all that have commented and are following along!

    Got the heater box cleaned up and rebuilt. As some have said I should probably put a new motor on it but that's not in the budget right now. I don't have the heater core portion either, so just trying to refurbish what I can without spending $.
    IMG_3764.jpg

    Finished up the air cleaner - is this the right decal for the front for May 1966? Some pictures have the "Dauntless V6" sticker?
    IMG_3851.jpg
    Fingers crossed all the holes inside that we brazed up will hold oil!

    Let's just say it's really nice to have a buddy with a crane. Thanks Chief!
    IMG_3790.jpg
    Got my tub and all my parts sandblasted by Arron at Battle Born Blasting out in the desert north of Reno on Pyramid Way last week. He wasn't cheap but he did a really good job.
    IMG_6155.jpg IMG_6159.jpg
    IMG_3969.jpg

    I am working on building a rotisserie at the Roundhouse to get some primer put on the tub as a stop-gap to arrest corrosion while I order some replacement panels from Classic Enterprises and plan to start doing some surgery. Huge thanks to @PieLut and @tommy b @Focker and @mike starck for making the 3D plans and uploading pics for me to follow. Will post some pics when I get it done this weekend.
    IMG_3986.jpg
    IMG_4021.jpg
    i'm not the best welder but they should be strong enough.
    IMG_4022.jpg
    Going to add some stand-off tubes to the tailgate and front mounting bars like Mike's, and weld up the legs tonight after work (and before the Penguins game!). I added some holes to the vertical "tub hangers" so I can through-bolt them for safety in "top" and "bottom" orientations instead of just welding nuts on and using friction.

    Warrior Products customer service gets a huge thumbs up for sending me (for free) the right (shorter) spring posts for the spring plates, which drastically improve the angle of the shocks and bring them inboard and back to nearly vertical. Note my beautiful "patriotic Blue" rattle canned 2008 Rancho RS5000 shocks that are on there for spacing!
    IMG_4020.jpg

    Looking forward to getting the rotisserie done this weekend, and primer and the start of tub triage and surgery next week!
     
  6. Aug 10, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Thought I would show some pics of the body now that it's on my homemade rotisserie, and I'm triage-ing what will get cut out and what will remain. UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67d5.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67d6.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67d8.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67d7.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67d4.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67d0.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67c5.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67ce.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67c1.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67cc.jpg

    Lots of work ahead! More pics in next post.
     
  7. Aug 10, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    10 UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67c7.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67be.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67d1.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67c6.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67b7.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67c2.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67b6.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67ca.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67b9.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67c8.jpg
    More pics:
     
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  8. Aug 10, 2020
    Oldriginal86

    Oldriginal86 Member

    Pasadena, Md.
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    Looks like a good start to the project. Obviously not this jeeps first go-round.
     
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  9. Aug 11, 2020
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    Cypress, Tx
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    Oh my :watch: as far as the rotisserie, you're going to love that thing (y):D, don't ya just love welding on new steel! :bow:, then you start welding on old jeep sheet metal, and, where did my welding skills go :shrug:
    I'm on board, let's rock this place! :cool:
     
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  10. Sep 24, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Wanted to post an update since it's been a while.

    On the body - well, I started to tear into it, and then began to develop some reservations about proceeding to cut out too much rot that I compromised the structural integrity, so I stopped. It's still sitting on the rotisserie until I can get down to the steel supplier in Reno and obtain some box tube and put in some braces. I did cut out the badly rotted passenger floor below the toolbox and then I got scared that if I started in on the riser behind it that the body would twist. So I decided to wait.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6923.jpg
    I did however just last week score a major acquisition of some of the hard-to-find parts - Tux chrome bumpers, rear "Z" brackets, and the license plate light/frame from a 1965 farm Jeep in Illinois.

    I asked for advise on what to do with the license plate frame in this thread.

    Ok - so to the bumpers. I know next to nothing about how to restore and repair 55 year old chrome bumpers. While I could easily just bolt them on and be happy, I'm doing this project to learn so it's time to learn how to refurbish bumpers. Here are a bunch of pictures:

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6a05.jpg
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6a09.jpg
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6a15.jpg
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6a12.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6a08.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6a3a.jpg
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6a37.jpg
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6a38.jpg
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6a3c.jpg

    As you can see, they bumpers have lots of dings, scratches, and some minor dents, and the front bumper is ever so slightly twisted. The rear sides are fully rusted and pitted.

    So what is the right way to go about restoring these? Is the first step to put them on the english wheel and/or hammer and dolly out the dents and dings? Build a jig and use a port-a-power to straighten? Do I sandblast or wire wheel the rust off the backside? And then - do you bother sanding them with like 2500 grit to get out the rust on the chrome, or is that something that gets taken care of when they get re-chromed? Do they get re-chromed on both sides?

    Eventually I want to have them re-chromed, but to me it doesn't make sense to just take them to the plater in Reno before I address the above issues.

    What would you do?
     
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  11. Mar 14, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Does anyone have a p/n from McMaster or elsewhere for the chrome “square throat” carriage bolts that attach the Tux bumper to the ends of the frame rails?
    0B9E506A-2410-4486-84D0-9F5E8FC5F16B.jpeg
     
  12. Mar 14, 2021
    givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Been here since sparky ran it. 2022 Sponsor

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    If it's similar to a regular carriage bolt, I bought stainless ones at home depot for my '78 f150 that has a chrome bumper. They looked great on it.
     
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  13. Mar 15, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Here's the p/n (I think) for the SS Carriage Bolts:
    92356A151
    McMaster-Carr.

    Update:
    Well, as I type this it's still snowing outside and I can hear the reverberations from the explosives of ski patrol bombing over at Squaw and Sugar Bowl, and winter has not released its grip on the Sierra Nevada quite yet. But, I am slowly awakening the Jeep project from her slumber.

    The Engine Rebuilder (Augie and Dustin Steinert at Superior Machine in Sparks) is nearing the finish line, and I hope to have the engine back in the next two weeks to get it on the stand and get it ready to put into the chassis. I decided to add assembly to the list of tasks the rebuilder took on, and they graciously agreed to also paint it for me for an affordable rate. My garage is uninsulated, and currently 50% occupied by my wife's car whenever it snows, and realistically it won't be warm enough to paint for a couple of months. As much as I really wanted to learn how to assemble an engine, I think it's best to pay a pro at this point and focus my efforts on the many many other tasks ahead. I'll do that on the next Jeep! :sneak:

    I've been following this thread about the potential of having a Holley Sniper ECU unit provide both electronic timing control and fuel control, but it seems like that's not quite possible yet. So I will eventually be installing a Sniper, but letting the distributor control the timing mechanically. I'll save further updates there for when I have the Engine back and can add some pics.

    Other than that, I swapped out the replacement front cross member for the OEM chrome bumper, with some temporary bolts. I'll be adding a stick of 3x1.5" rectangular 0.122" wall tube out there tucked in behind the bumper to add support and strength to the frame. Anyone need a freshly gloss black painted Cross Member - PM me.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_739a.jpg

    I whipped up a quick dashboard stand from some leftover lumber I dug out of the snow (old dashboard shown with lovely naugahyde glue...yuck) so that I can throw up the new dashboard above the chassis and start in on gauges and wiring after the engine is in.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_73a8.jpg
    Next will be a Advance Adapters Chain Clutch, but waiting to drill/bolt that to the frame for when the engine is in and attached to the transmission so I can get a better sense of where it goes. Looks like I'd want to bend the bracket a little bit more to bring the sprocket out further towards the middle of the chassis but I'm not sure?

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_739c.jpg

    Hope to start in on running lines to the front brakes on a couple of evenings after work this week. Sadly (stupidly) I forgot to bring the old brake lines in before it snowed, so they are just outside the garage door buried under 6 feet of blue hard ice from where the roof sheds. So I don't have them to follow - does anyone out there have any pics, closeup and/or overhead, of front brake lines on a chassis with the body off, and dual reservoir Master Cylinder + Disc Brakes?
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6573.jpg

    Ordering the exhaust from Waldron's this week, they are 8-10 weeks out so wanted to get a jump on that.
    O6iDQ218T6qYv%XCABmbgQ_thumb_7396.jpg

    Looking at either talking to Stockton Wheel about custom wheels (waiting to hear back from them) or trying out the Wheel Vintiques Series 62 size 15x8" OEM Primer Wheels with 4.25" center bore and selling my Wagon Wheels. I might order one at Summit and see if the NOS hubcaps I got on Ebay snap over the nubs. BUT -- the bigger issue is whether the 4" backspacing will work with my frame/suspension geometry. Things almost work with the 3.75" backspacing on the Wagon Wheels.....the steering wheel is off because the tub is currently over the back half of the frame on sawhorses, so I need to jack the entire front end up and push the wheels lock to lock to see if moving the tires another 0.25" closer to the frame would work. I'm not a fan of spacers....so trying to avoid that route if possible.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_655f.jpg

    That's about it for now. Hopefully more soon!
     
  14. Mar 25, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Making some small amounts of progress.

    I fabricated a box tube to go behind the chrome front bumper. Since I pan on lightly wheeling this rig, I didn't like how the removal of the front crossmember for the chrome bumper removes a lot of the strength from the frame forward of the front spring hangers. I elected to go with the thicker of the two kinds of available box tube at 0.188" wall...not sure if this was the right call but I paid for it so that's what I made.

    Yz6sXKisTlWFQupdpeq4VA_thumb_7437.jpg
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7433.jpg

    Due to the large caterpillar weld beads a PO laid down inside the frame horns, I had to eliminate some of the bottom to make it all fit up right, and I added 2 plates of 1/8" flat bar at the top to allow for the change in height of the horns. And because I won't be able to get a wrench in there I had to tap the top/bottom holes.


    I don't 100% love the way the box tube doesn't curve like the bumper, and will slightly protrude out from the aft side of the bumper, but I don't think I can lightly V-bend this thick of tube, so I painted it. I suppose I could fab up a thinner one at 0.125" wall, but that would be another $40 and a trip to Reno since I don't have any on hand.
    iW1cF70fSkmzzWTQ7TjRlg_thumb_7434.jpg

    I also got the rear axle brake lines in. Learning my way through how to flare line and how to use bending tools, so they aren't pretty but hopefully they hold pressure. Tried not to go above the U bolts in case I ever bottom out. Gosh I'm not sure how I missed that big dent in the rear diff cover....

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_745e.jpg
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_745a.jpg

    I was almost done with the run of line from the rear cross member to the Rear outlet on the proportioning valve, until I slipped the tube nut on and went to flare it and realized that I didn't have enough line to fit in the flaring die. Oops. So back to the drawing board on that one tonight, but at least I have a pattern to follow.

    First step was bailing wire, second step was a spare section of 3/16 tube with crude bends w/ pliers, then I made the same shape bends at the forward end of the long run from the back "smoothly" with the right tools. I give myself a C+, but I can do better.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7460.jpg

    If (when) I do it again tonight, I'm starting at the forward end!

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_745b.jpg

    I made a crude diagram, and installed the proportioning valve on the outside of the frame rail forward of the pedal cross tube and aft of the Ross steering frame bolts. Hopefully this works and is easy to get to to adjust.
    hqoXmggsRKyqOrW2f61GPg_thumb_740e.jpg
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7428.jpg

    And, working my way through tire/wheel issues to see if I can use my tires, but change the wheels and get some relief in different backspacing from potential rubbing at full lock.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_742e.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2021
  15. Mar 25, 2021
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    Great work! :bananatool:
     
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  16. Mar 26, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Made some more progress last night -- man is it cold in my garage!

    Got the lines in from the MC to the Proportioning valve.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_746d.jpg

    And then got the front in:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_746e.jpg
    Looking at it this morning though, I think I made a mistake running the RH line on the outside of the frame, it should go inside alongside the front RH line, then bend underneath and then into the PV.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_746f.jpg

    It's hard eyeballing where the bottom and inside lip of the fender will go - am I going to have enough room?

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_31b1.jpg

    And also, in a scenario where I'm stuck in mud and spinning the front LH tire, seems like there's going to be a bunch of rocks and mud flung up at the PV. Maybe putting it on the outside of the frame wasn't the best idea....what do you guys think? Did I screw up? Or will I be OK if I armor the lines with fuel hose, or should I just fabricate a mudflap?:oops:
     
  17. Mar 26, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Depending on what kind of off-roading you'll be doing, I'd be a little worried about the lines crossing under the frame rail. One good rock hit and you have no brakes. Brakes are important! I would at least put some sort of skid plate under them or route the lines over the top.
     
  18. Mar 26, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Well I’m a lot better with CNC machines than I am at bending brake line, maybe I can fab up some armor for the whole scenario.
     
  19. Mar 26, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Yeah, it doesn't seem like a hard thing to make. You could armor your pedal pivots while you're at it.
     
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  20. Mar 26, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Can somebody take a couple pictures of the inside bottom corner of where the driver fender attaches to the body with respect to how it sits over the frame?
     
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