Anyone Start With A Marine Buick 225 V6?

Possibly finally found a Buick 225. Wondering if others have tried a marine engine and what issues they ran into. Verified that it is a 225 by block casting number.

Already have headers, rebuilt Motorcraft 2100 with adapter, and rebuilt 225 distributor with Pertronix.

Thanks for your comments and help
Dennis

 

Interesting topic, getting my popcorn . . .

 

I have used several marine motors as I live right next to Puget Sound and these motors were very common in early 70's boats. You have already hit the parts that were different in marine applications. There always seems to be a lot more corrosion in them. Don't believe anybody that says an almost 50 year old boat never saw salt water. If going for a block for a full rebuild it should work fine.

 

As Daryl alluded to, salt water can kill an engine. If it was raw water cooled, it is likely junk. If it ran a heat exchanger and ran antifreeze in the block, it should be fine.
Exhaust manifolds and possibly the waterpump, there are only minor differences. It could have a big sump oil pan.
-Donny

 

Only repeating what I've heard on here about similar topics... make sure it spins the right direction.

 

Thanks for the comments and help!
Have verified that it is a standard rotation, crank machined for pilot bushing, and as far as I can determine before teardown reasonable “corrosion”.
Pick up this Saturday and will start tearing it spart.
Dennis

 

Why bother???
There are plenty of auto versions out there to buy..
Even if the motor is free.. you can sure pay more down the road.
(East coast, rust belt, negative Nancy talking here)

 

I did not start with a marine, but I ended up with one. Mine is used and low hours. I may have to remove at least the intake manifold because the little bit of painters blue tape over the carburetor opening was torn. Other then not having checked for the machined pilot bearing yet. The exhaust studs will need to be removed. I see nothing else different on my engine.

 

IDK if 225 blocks are similar, but 283 Chevy marine blocks were thicker castings than blocks intended for automotive use, according to Chris Craft. YMMV, Good luck !

 

The blocks and heads have higher nickel content to resist corrosion.

 

Engine delivered, removed everything marine specific and posted on Cxxxxslist hopefully for a few bucks. Also posted the 198.

Still had water in it, now for the complete tear down! At least I can set up engine and T19/Dana18 to locate and weld in the motor mounts in the frame I got from Don - big step forward after being on hold for over 2 months!

Then disassembly and rebuild.

Dennis

 

This is sometimes the case on high nickel content. On Chevy small and big blocks, you may find 020 and 010 behind the timing chain cast in the front of the block denoting high nickel. They are stronger too.
-Donny

 

Check the piston to cylinder clearance carefully. Marine engines were designed to run at a fairly constant load for extended periods unlike auto engines that were up and down in load range. Marine engines typically were machined with slightly higher clearances than auto engines. I know when I worked at an engine performance machine shop that's how we machined the cylinders. How much depended on the type of pistons used and the type of boat the engine it was going in. Fishing boat was one thing, drag boat was another, whitewater alcohol injected twin turbo big block was another clearance.

 

Nickmil
Good advice, thank you!
Dennis