D30 pinion preload

I'm trying to setup the pinion bearing preload on my D30, without any good results. Wondering if I have some parts out of order. Haven't been able to find a pic of all the parts on the shaft. Here's what I've got:

Put large oil slinger on behind pinion gear
Bearing cone
Race with shim (depth) pack in housing
Small oil slinger (concave side faces yoke end of shaft) behind outer race
Race
Shim pack (preload)
Bearing cone
Dust shield
Yoke
I'm pretty sure this is the correct order, but no matter how many preload shims I install, I still find the preload is too tight. I added .006 shims behind the inner race as my new pinion is marked -1 and the old pinion is marked +5 I added .006 to the intial preload pack to compensate for the depth shims I added. Any ideas out there?

 

Why would you put a shim pack between the race and bearing cone? :? Just doesn't sound right. Looking at "Essentials Parts Catalog" from Quadratec pictures and something doesn't seem right. Great pictures in this catalog for all moving parts. (WWW.QUADRATEC.COM).

 

my parts book shows:
pinion gear
large oil slinger
inner bearing cone
inner bearing race
large pinion shims (inner, in housing)
smaller pinion shims (outer, on pinion shaft) CORRECTED
outer bearing race
outer bearing cone
small oil slinger
pinion seal
yoke
washer
nut
pinion yoke nut, torque to: 200-220 ft lbs
pinion bearing rotating torque: 15-35 Inch lbs
I am no help in the set-up dept

 

My only experience is with a D44, but the way the parts are stacked sounds the same as with the D30.

The inner shims behind the inner race set the pinion depth. The outer shims go around the pinion shaft between the outer race and outer cone, but are smaller in diameter than the inner hole of the race, so they arent actually touching the race, they just hold the outer cone farther away from the race. This is what sets the preload, If you add more shims, it loosens the preload. If you take shims out, it tightens the preload. It sounds like you have everything in the correct order.

I would just start adding more outter shims, in increments of 0.005 until the pinion preload becomes too loose, then you've narrowed it down to within 0.005 of adjustment. Then you're in the ballpark, and can fine tune it from there.

HTH.

 

yes my bad
I said I was worthless on set-up
I meant to say what's already been said
sorry for confusion
are you with me?

 

My dana 30 had the shims between the large oil slinger and the bearing not underneath the seat. Both of the ones I have torn apart were still setup from the factory and both were done this way.

 

Mcruff said
(My dana 30 had the shims between the large oil slinger and the bearing not underneath the seat.)

Mcruff
Are you talking about the shims used for setting the pinion depth? Or the preload shims?

 

Pinion depth.

 

Pinion depth is not for the faint hearted. Myth says to measure accross the cap surface with a straight edge. This is incorrect as it can put you .030 to .040 off. A proper pinion depth gauge is best (which nobody has). Crush sleeves is a whole 'nuther can 'o worms.

IMO, pay to have it done properly for a lifetime of service.

 

Thats what I used. A good friend of mine has one, my tools from work were actually easier to use.

 

Posi, the concave slinger/shield doesn't go behind the outer race, it goes between the outer bearing cone and the yoke. That's why you're having trouble. That slinger is to help keep oil from being splashed directly against the pinion seal and causing a leak. Plus, in the position you have it now it will inhibit oil from getting to the outer pinion bearing. That's why you're preload is too tight, you're essentially adding an extra .030" or so of an inch to the distance between the bearing races that isn't supposed to be there. Nickmil.

 

Thanks, nickmil. I had a feeling it was out of order. Here's the rub. Someone must have worked on this axle before and somehow got it to work. That old oil slinger has two punch marks on it where I used a punch to drive out the outer bearing race when I took it apart. The punch marks coincide with the two relief cuts in the housing at the outer race. Go figure! Thanks again.