Bad Engine Noise

Is #1 blue? If so then definitely pull that cap.

If bottom end doesnt give any clues them measure valve lifts.

 

What are you waiting for? Check the torque on the last main bearing cap..........as I mentioned above and then remove the cap...........1/2 of the bearing will be inside.........If you don't feel comfortable doing this then try and find a fellow there that can help..........you just half to inspect these parts............."but rather quite a lot of a silver shiny gunk"................... Sounds like babbit ( bearing material)

 

Yes, go slow. Take pics of the bearings. They will be shells that snap into the caps. Dont scratch them. Take a pic. If you see what looks like scratches in the crank journal or metal on the bearing, you have found your issue. The "babbit" material looks a bit like lead and is soft.

Types of Engine Bearing Damage | KnowYourParts

 

Yes . take your time............Once you get it off post a picture that should tell the story...........I also sent you a PM with my phone number , call if you like tomorrow.

 

Looking at your pictures, I see nothing out of order or indications of something that would make a pronounced tapping noise. As mentioned, pull rod caps one at a time and check the bearing shells. An indication of something wrong is when the bearing insert is loose and doesn't stay put in the cap. There should be enough tension to hold it snug in the rod cap. If any are so loose that they just fall out and/or rock around in the cap, they have been beat pretty hard and are suseptable to spinning (failing) if they continue to be used. The tabs should all protrude to fit the notch in the rod cap.
Also, my guess that engine has been apart before because the main bearing bolt heads don't all match. An original engine usually has all matching hardware.
The graphite-like sludge in your pan is worn metal, likely from the cam and lifter wear. Flakes are usually indicate bearing material.
I suspect you will find a worn camshaft in there. Most of the current oils just don't have enough zinc for flat tappet cams.
Good luck tomorrow with your research!
-Donny

 

Looks like an old Motor with many miles , excessive crank thrust end play that has eaten up the thrust bearing and also allowed #3 to bang up against the main Cap.........

Sorry but looks like it's Time for a rebuild. Was the torque still in place on the caps?..............May as well pull a few rod bearings while your there.

Not the end of the World.......looks like you caught it in time before the crank went away.

Make sure you save the old parts so you can show it to the crank grinder..........he may have to weld up that flange and re-grind it to re-establish the correct end play.

 

If the engine has been bored over I think it would be cast into the top of the piston.
The crank could be ground and polished. If you reuse your camshaft you have to make sure you keep the lifters organized.
If I were doing a full rebuild I'd go with new camshaft and lifters, timing chain, etc.
Check for a cylinder ridge, it can be felt by running your finger along the cylinder wall. It will give you an idea how worn the engine is.

 

If you pull the engine, you can get a crank kit that includes a reground crank and the needed bearings. A quick search shows ca $200 exchange. Since this is a running engine, you could not even pull the heads or remove the pistons.This is the least you can do, IMO.

Or, have the heads done, hone the bores, and install new cast iron rings while you are at it.

If you pull the heads, remove the pistons and measure the bores, you will find they are tapered. A shop will tell you that the bores must be straightened and fitted with new pistons. Cast iron rings will usually seat fine in tapered bores, but the engine won't have the longevity of a complete rebuild.

 

You WILL need to replace the cam and lifters. Every one of these engines I have taken apart had missing lobes and or crushed lifters. The cheapest rebuild kit last I looked was Buick 225 V6 1964-1971 Master Engine Kit from Northern Auto Parts
You will need to take it apart first and maybe have a machine shop bore to an oversize cylinder and cut crank if required to undersize. You may want to have the block trued up and the heads as well. The valves can be lapped if you want to save money or fully redone if you like.

Get it apart and decide from a cost perspective what makes sense.

Might be cheaper to do a FI 4.3, or maybe you just like the 225 and want to keep it no matter the cost.

 

The motor needs to come out...........and completely torn down , then measured........if it's re-buildable then the block needs to be boiled out and thoroughly checked...I would doubt that the pistons and the cylinder walls will look much better than the bearings did at the crank.........Probably New pistons and rings , resize the rods , bearings and probably a new oil pump , camshaft , timing gears and chain & lifters, also take a look at the rocker assembly...........do it right the first time.........if you do it will last you longer than you will probably have the Jeep.

Take a look through this thread: Blueprint 225

 

Thats a great price

 

Yep..............By the time I go through one , for just parts , machine work & extra's the Tab is over $2k

 

Been a while since I've rebuilt an engine, but i did not have an engine stand. You can build the engine on the bench if you can turn it over. As I recall, the parts are heavy, but not monstrously heavy. You can man-handle the engine and engine parts pretty well.

You can set the engine on a pallet or directly on the garage floor. Prop it up with blocks so it will sit upright. Don't worry about the engine; just don't let it tip over and hurt you. The oil pan will support the engine.