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Another Clutch Question

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by FinoCJ, Aug 26, 2016.

  1. Aug 30, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    End Play is important and should be checked...........but that event or initial movement of the crankshaft under first loading only happens once as the clearance is taken up........in extreme cases while shifting between gears you can get it to repeat.........................if it still thumps under constant load , it's probably the main bearings.....................Put it up against a tree or immovable object.
     
  2. Aug 30, 2016
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I'm sure it's not possible to do it from the back. It's a two piece seal that you push into a groove in the block and rear main cap. No access from the flywheel side.
     
  3. Aug 30, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Jul 18, 2013
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    I think I get what you are saying - that the initial forward pressure from disengaging the clutch would move the crankshaft forward and get a clunk when it bottoms out, but as long as that forward pressure is maintained it should not continue to clunk repeatedly as it will be held in place against the forward stop. I certainly get repeating clunks or knocking while holding the clutch pedal in.

    I am going to go try to check endplay as well as take it out and put the engine under load against the curb and slowly let the clutch out and listen.
     
  4. Aug 30, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    I am not great at doing these small dial indicator measurements but here is what I got: crankshaft endplay of 0.02 (20 thousandths), and that was both prying the front crankshaft pulley in and out by hand as well as prying it in and then pushing the clutch in to move it back forward. If anything, the measurement would err on the side too large as I couldn't put the magnetic base on the engine block and get the dial indicator to fit, so I mounted it on the front axle. I believe the 'normal' specs would be 0.004-0.008? So how serious is my extra endplay - I don't have any feel for engine tolerances. I would really like to see if I could stop the 'knocking' by pressing/holding the crankshaft pulley in (or out) to see if its vibrating back and forth. Just not sure how to do that with it actually running and spinning and fan blade close by etc.

    As for the second test for the mainshaft bearings - when letting off the clutch to push the jeep against a big curb I did not notice much change in the knocking sound - it was still there but not any louder or more distinct. When I notice the sound to be loudest is right after I lift off the gas with clutch disengaged (pedal in).
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2016
  5. Aug 30, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    Hey , at this point were all guessing.............the end play clearance sounds as if it is excessive , although your measuring may not be exact as you stated.....the noise changing sometimes happens when parts are loaded and then un-loaded.................unfortunately it may be time to pull the pan and take a look.......again it sounds like it's in the rotating assembly.........which can be crankshaft & rods and bearings and perhaps some loose pistons or skirts...
    Tough call...........Hows the motor & tranny mounts?
     
  6. Aug 30, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    The rubber tranny mount looked like a relatively new replacement - motor mounts seem fine. They definitely are not wasted junk.

    I'll probably drop the pan and take a look see...is there anything I should be looking for and hoping not to see? I guess it would be a good time to replace the rear main seal as well.
     
  7. Aug 30, 2016
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    eh - the last time I worked on a rig with that 'sound' (as close as I can tell), it ended up being a busted skirt on a piston. Was not what I was expecting, but there it is.
     
  8. Aug 30, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    The Buick V6 motors are well known for oiling issues...........along with that main and rod bearings seem to suffer. Other than a cursory look from the bottom it's pretty hard to really get into replacing bearings or seals from underneath...........not saying it can't be done it's just really hard.

    Pull the Plugs..................Look at the oil when you drain it..........pull the pan and check for metal in the oil and or pieces that could be a piston skirt.........rotate the motor a little at a time while you take a small bar or screw driver and lightly pry the parts and look for excessive clearance while you look at the condition of each piston skirt............shake the rods and anything else you can grab, check the thrust bearing end play once again.........you can pull a main bearing cap off also..........but you should first do reverse torquing on all the parts just to see if any are now loose...........meaning if the part should be torqued at 100 lbs start the torque checking at say 85 lbs and graduate towards 100 lbs.
    Then take a cap off.........I would start in the rear and take a hard look at the bearing.
     
  9. Aug 31, 2016
    47v6

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    USA
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    this.
     
  10. Aug 31, 2016
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Spokane Valley, WA
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    My trusty old v6 from my '70 ultimately changed hands in a '65 CJ5 after being beat to death in my Willys pickup....

    Anyway, it had gradually developed a loud knock, and I didn't have the time or motivation to dig into it. I sold the jeep to a friend for cheap. I called him a week later and he found one bad rod bearing by doing the "grab and shake" technique. He changed that one bearing out and got another 10 years out of the engine before selling the jeep.
     
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