What Did You Do To Your Jeep Today?

I don't think so. Alan wrote 1.35 euro which is $1.65 a liter.

 

suddenly, a tesla seems like a worthwhile investment.

 

ATTABOY........Keep drinking that Kool-Aid.....

 

1 US gal = 3,785 liters
1 liter = 1,35 euro or in US $ approx 1,65 $ at this time
1 US gal = 6,25 $

 

It's less than half the cost here. I would still drive it for fun at 6,25 but it wouldn't be for long distance.

Work is maybe 3k away.

 

You could do as Alan does and just drive it on the tracks between the farms on the way to snd from the village.

 

Hooked the trailer up to it and put the kids in their seats and dropped off an engine hoist I borrowed from a friend nearly a year ago. Day before that I fueled up at 2.56 a gallon.

 

As long as someone else pays the Electric bill. My Daughter has a Chevy Volt. She says it like running two Air conditioning unit in the house all night to charge it. She puts gas in it at $4.00 a gallon here in Nor Cal. we already have Roving Power out adages, And our Gov wants another Million Electric cars by 2025.

 

Didn't really do anything on the CJ5, but I did take advantage of the 1'2 off sale at Pick N Pull today. I found a nice set of leather manual adjustable bucket seats out of a late model VW Pissant or whatever they call them. As close to prefect as I've seen. $34.95 out the door for the pair..I think they will go nice in the CJ5

 

Got the ball joints replaced. The axle beat the upper part of the knuckle to death. I probably should've replaced the knuckle but....

Looks like the splines twisted too. The spindle bearing fell apart so I had to replace it. Apparently the short side wt d30 shaft is not the same length as the nt. I hoped the long side was just different. Guess I'll be ordering a set of shafts now instead of later.

 

I can see that. The data I found (I don't own electric so can't say what it would costs in my area) it looks like 15ish dollars per full charge when charging at home. Not as expensive as putting gas in my XJ or CJ right now but still way cheaper.

 

I don't even like crossing the tracks. I have a fear of stalling so I always go at speed and it's not fun with 10 leaves on each corner.

 

The f150 lightning would work for me. The Expedition gets the long hauls and tows enough.

 

I built a new framework for the New Drivers seat and modified the tilt up Passenger frame so that I can still access the under seat tool box. The VW Pissant passenger seat back folds down onto the base and make it easy to flip the seat up. I used a 1/2" clevis and pin and floor bracket to hold the seat down. What even was factory is Looog gone. These are some of the nicest seats I've seen at Pick N Pull. Especially on 1/2 price weekend for $34.95 out the door for the pair.

 

Hauled a mega load of crap to the dump yesterday. The trailer, loaded, weighed 1960#. It felt really good, aside from the drop in power.

 

I rode the blue cj6 a 100 mi or so this morn. I've had some problems with it ever since I changed the engine. The old engine ran well, but had some cracks in the block. Got hot on me once when crawling slow in hot weather.
I found a different 225 v6, rebuilt it and put it in with a 252 Comp cam, bored .030 over, HEI, 4barrel Offy w/ Holley 390. I fought a leaky rear main for a long time, until a member here mentioned a different brand of rear seal that he had tried and it helped tremendously. Thanks Rich M. My biggest problem was lack of power. It just did not pull well at all when going uphill, even to the point of downshifting. I pulled the dist., timing cover, pushrods, all just trying to find something. Lo and behold, I found some pushrods bent. Bout half of them were bent, so I started checking length. 8.700 I think was the length. I remembered the machinist who did the work on the block and heads, saying that he thought this engine was a 64 or earlier because of valve design. I never thought much about it until I went to the TA Performance website to look for some new pushrods. There, I found 2 different lengths, 8.700" and 8.596" I think, which it stated was for the earlier Dauntless motors.
Little light bulb come on in my tiny brain and said, you need the shorter pushrods. It worked!! My cj6 runs like it should. I had simply used the same pushrods that were in the motor when I got it. Obviously my valves weren't closing all the way.
Yes, I should have checked that when I rebuilt it, but I didn't know the different year models had different length pushrods.
YE HAH

 

Glad you got that sorted! I know the frustration of a crappy leaky runner that shouldn't be.
Put in that Enginetech seal? Mine occasionally " spots" when idling still but doesn't when driving and the dipstick hasn't moved so it was a win for me.

 

It's a great feeling when a good mechanic fights thru the problem, discovers & learns how to make it right !
Good Job, Fellas !

 

Looks like you really scored there, Rodney. Notch one up !

 

Loaded the kids up and played the phototag game a little bit and met up with some local Jeep club folks for some lunch.