disk brake conversion help with the lock o matic hub

Need opinions or options on this. I purchased a disk brake conversion for my 70 CJ5 which has warn Lock-O-Matic hubs. After putting everything back together, there is about a 1/4" gap between the hub and the warn part. Am I going to need to look at a different disk conversion or is there a locking hub conversion. Been researching on the site for a better part of the afternoon, needless to say I am stuck. Any ideas are appreciated.

 

That's not a Warn disc brake bearing hub.
What axle is this going on? What parts are you using to do the disc conversion? Have you test fit the calipers and pads on this to see if they line up? What wheel bearings are you using? What brackets and calipers?

 

I got the kit from parts dude. I spoke with him and he said another person with the lock o matics had some issues but thought he got the kit to work. The kit came with 2 pre-assembled 7/8 rotors with wheel hubs and pressed in wheel studs. Timkin bearings and cups. The rotors fit 78-81 CJs. The caliper brackets fit on the axle fine with clearance along with the caliper. The spacing between the outer hub and the inner is the problem. The axle should be a dana 27. I bought the kit so that I wouldn't have to source out all of the parts and had hoped to get this on to start driving and of course stopping.

 

I figured it out, needed to use a little brute force to clear that space, just didn't push it on hard enough. There is a spacer to fill that.

 

Brute force wasn't the answer, but rather finesse. Those plastic clutch friction blocks on the Warn hub are held snug with a radial spring. They have to expand over the smooth drag nut locking your bearings. Usually you have to kind of twist and rock the Warn hub as you push it over the drag nut. Forcing it will break those plastic clutches, or worse, you'll distort the cages that hold them.
Be carefull when assembling the Lock o Matics on the spindle. I have more than a few that have been damaged from improper assembly.
-Donny

 

Yes, the spacer is to clear the wheels for the standard 15" rims. Sometimes the simple things stump me the most. Thanks for the help, I'm sure I'll be back for more.

 

I shouldn't have said brute force, although I felt like using a BFH. I did the twisting and pushing method, which worked well. I haven't made it to the passenger side of the vehicle, but I already know that the mechanism does not turn, I'm sure I'll be trying to figure that out tomorrow.

 

So this morning I had some time to work on the passenger side disk conversion, When I began to take the warn outer hub off, oil began pouring out as I loosened the six bolts. There were several bearings missing and the inner locking ring with the 3 set screws was severely damaged. The pudding inside the knuckle isn't really pudding, more of a liquid mess. Should I be concerned my inner seal is damaged? looks intact while looking down the axle tube, but hard to tell even though it is the short side of the axle. Or is there a chance the PO just poured a bunch of gear oil in. I really don't want to tear the axle apart if I don't have to. Second, since the bearings are missing out of the lock-o-matic, what would you guys suggest as a replacement.

 

My guess is that yes, the inner axle seal is shot. It should be replaced. You could probably get by by leaving the diff level down 3/4" inch but every time you get on a side hill with the right side down, you will fill it up again.

Unfortunately, Warn doesn't have parts for those any more. But the missing cap rollers are the same for all Warn hubs that style, manual or Lock-O-Matic, Scout/Jeep makes no difference. In fact, the entire outer assembly can be interchanged. You really should disassemble the entire hub and clean it up-while inspecting for other damage. My personal opinion is the Lock-O-Matics are actually stronger than the manual version when operating in auto mode. Some pretty beefy steel on steel there. In manual mode, still relying on those steel pins in the aluminum cap to transmit the power.

And yes, they should bolt right on using those hubs and discs. Ran that setup for about 35 years on my 3B on the D25 and only recently traded it out to all Scout II parts on the D44.

 

I guess I will just go ahead and replace the inner seals while its down. Getting nice weather and am just ready to start hitting some trails.

 

the missing pins for the lock-o-matics . just get some harden dowel pins

 

You need to make sure all the pins are present in those hubs because that is what is transferring all the torque to the wheel. There are twelve in there to distribute the load evenly. You may be able to find exact replacements at a bearing company as they are a standard roller bearing roller.
That drag nut (inner lock ring) with the three setscrews is critical to the automatic function of those hubs. You need to be sure the outer surface is smooth and the plastic clutches at the back of the hub are in good condition. The Lock o Matics come up from time to time on eBay and may be where you find the parts needed, but usually, the drag nuts are left behind somewhere else.
As far as the oil running out, your seal probably needs replacing. I used to run gear oil in my outer swivels until the globe seals wore so bad the oil leaked out. A little thinker juice doesn 't leak as bad.
-Donny

 

Thanks for the replies, already online looking for pins, also checking some yards for spares. If not, it looks like Warn part# 29062 may be a replacement for the 10 spline, anyone use this on theirs?

 

back again, found some time to work on the disk conversion. I pulled the front line off of the MC to remove the check valve, don't see one, unless I am missing something. Here are a few pics, maybe someone can give me some insight. The PO made some changes on this and finding them out as I go, as stated before, half of the bearings were missing out of the passenger side hub so there is no telling what has or has not been done to this.

 

My 70 didn't have any check valves in the master cylinder either. Just the sealing seat, no spring or anything else behind it.

 

Did you use the same master cylinder and run the 2psi valve in the line for the front?

 

Yep, at present, I've got a different Master Cylinder I'll be putting in, just haven't gotten around to it. But it's been working fine.

 

I was hoping to hear that brother, thanks.