Metering Valve needed?

I converted my 70 CJ5 to front discs and rear 11" drums. I removed the 10 lb residual from the primary outlet and added a 2lb in line. I also plumbed in a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. After doing some internet research, I decided to put a metering valve in the front circuit.

I guess my question is, was the metering valve a good idea? Is it really necessary? I was contemplating just taking it out if its not necessary. I'm having some issues bleeding the front brakes, they don't seem to be getting pressure like they should be. I'm contemplating just removing it.

Any input would be appreciated. TIA

 

A true metering valve holds off pressure to the front disc brakes until sufficient pressure rises in the rear drum brakes to keep the fronts from locking up too soon. Unnecessary in an early CJ imho. This may be part of the issue you are running into with the bleeding. The metering valve is very much effected by adjustment and condition of the rear drum brakes also. For example, if the rear drum brakes are out of adjustment and cannot build enough pressure until late in the braking cycle, the metering valve will remain closed too long delaying application of the front brakes.
I'd remove it personally. I would keep the 2lb. residual pressure valve in the front disc brake system. Do you have a 10lb. residual pressure valve in the drum brake system? That is also necessary and if not could be adding to the issue.
I've seen other items sometimes called metering valves in service information but really aren't unless they serve this function.

 

It's an actual metering valve. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Brake-Metering-Hold-Off-Valve,8904.html

According to the instructions, its supposed to let 75 to 125 psi build before letting the front brakes apply.

I left the 10lb residual valve in the master cylinder for the rear. I did adjust the rear brakes also.

Initially I had installed the secondary piston in the master cylinder backwards. After fixing this I was able to get the fronts bled and caliper movement, but it still seems like the pressure is not high enough. Maybe I'm just not used to non-power brakes. I'm going to give it another shot at bleeding the entire system again. If I'm still not happy I will take the valve out. I will have to fab up some new brake lines, but I'm still dealing with just a rolling chassis, so it's not like I don't have time.

Thank you for the input.