brake master cylinder vs. outlet bolt

This is a multi-part question I'm hoping yall can help me out with. I'm re-doing the brake system on a stock '59 CJ5. It has the original style single reservoir master cylinder. I replaced the master cylinder and all attaching hardware to include the outlet bolt, outlet fitting, and crush washers. I torqued it down tight but was still getting leaks from between the bolt and the fitting. A jeep supplier/expert recommended I just tighten the bolt more, so I did...and then all of a sudden it got much easier to turn. So my first question...did I strip the bolt or the master cylinder? One part costs $8 and the other $50, and I'm guessing I probably stripped the $50 one. Once I buy the new part, does anyone know what the proper torque is for that bolt, and any advice on getting a tight connection there? Many thanks in advance.

 

A trick that sometimes works with those crush washers is to torque (tighten) the banjo bolt down, then loosen, then retighten. Doe this a couple times. This puts a crush on the washer/seal to create a good seal and keeps them from relaxing and loosening later. Before you do this check the surfaces the seals contact closely for a good sealing surface. I've seen them pitted from corrosion (remanufactured), mis-machined, and pitted from poor casting.

 

14 or 15 ftlbs. Not a whole lot.

What ever yahoo told you to cinch down on that bolt as hard as you can was an idiot!

 

Oh, yeah. Maybe that 8 dollar hollow bolt collapsed, if you are lucky and that is all you have to replace.

 

On closer inspection, looks like the bolt cracked, right around the hole that the fitting slips over. Still covered by warranty, so that's good. Appreciate the help everyone.