rear output on front output....

There was a thread about putting the front output on the rear, to eliminate rear break. What about putting the rear flange on the front, so I have room for a cv shaft and bigger ujoint?

 

The smaller u-joint is on the front to clear the starter and oil pan. The 4 cylinder drive shaft uses the larger yoke!

 

I dont have any worries with the start or oil pan.... i run a big yoke up front on my wagoneer axle. Only clearance issue sI face, is the side of the th400. but I think a cv shaft woudl work, if I can covnert to flange up front.

You have to remember, this isnt running on a stock cj5 or even a jeep for that matter...

i'm running a 231 buick, hooked to a th400 from a cammando, with a d18 from 70 cj5. Front springs are 1inch lift springs for a 5, with a spring over, and closed knuckle 30 from a wagoneer.






The front axle has been turned down since this picture,, and now my top joint binds. Which is why I need a cv shaft installed. Ive got a cvshaft from a wagoneer awaiting instalation but need a way to hook the big yoke up.

You say the 4cylinders ran big yokes? Can I use the front yoke on my transfercase?

 

Some model 20's from Wagoneers, FS Cherokees, and Jeep pu's used a CV joint drive shaft up front. Just get a CV yoke from a model 20 that has coarse (10) splines (most did) and use that. The 20 yoke will fit on the 18 front output fine. I've done it tons of times. The rear companion flange from a park brake 18 doesn't match up to any CV joints that I'm aware of which means custom one-off parts, i.e. expensive. Nickmil.

 

I had the same problem with my front drive shaft binding at the top yoke. I was told at a reputable driveline shop that a CV actually has a little less angle available than a regular u joint. He showed me a CV and a standard yoke assmbl and showed me the angle thay could achieve and he was right. I took a grinder to mine and relieved some material so it wouldnt bind. Check and see how much your bind really is. I didn't have to remove much at all to get it free. I'm putting in a D30 and I hope the larger u joint will not bind up.

 

Cant grind anymnore, and it still gonna bind. I build my own driveshafts, and test fitted a cv shaft on the rear flange, it will work, but tis tight to get the caps in.
The point of a cv shaft, is to give you better angles. They arent made to run at higher angles. With 2 joints, you achieve the same angle, via 2 seperate anlges, instead of all at once. Im startign to wonder if the frotn drivesahft from a 80's cherokee can be made to work?

A ford explorer dshaft will also work for me, if I had 1310 joint instead of 1210.

If the d20 has the 1310 joint I guess thats the way to go.