Dana 25 spicer u joint where to get one?

I will keep this short and sweet--even though it's a long story starting with brake work--anyway I've determined the u joint in my Dana 25 is shot (not a needle left in it). I've got it all apart cleaning everything and decided to just rebuild the whole knuckle/seals etc.

We'll I took the u joint to local parts place-after measurements etc they tried to hand me a grease able joint. Don't really want to rip apart the knuckle to grease it all the time. Is there a sealed replacement and or one that has no seals like the original?? If so where do I get it? Part number?

I've been doing searches and came up with
http://walcks4wd.com/repair-kit-ujoint-front-axle.html

But if there is a local place I can get one I'd rather get her fixed this weekend. Thanks

 

If you live in a bigger town, any Spicer dealer should be able to get the non-greasable types.

 

non greasable is the same as greasable just with a zerk on it. Am i wrong? you could probrobly just cut away the rubber seals

 

Not sure in this application. It was my impression the non grease able-on say a drive shaft-- were a sealed unit. IE maintenance free. So any grease in the knuckle would just be for the bearings. I'm concerned the greaseable ones won't get the lube the need thru thru that hole without a gun. Least doesn't seem they would.

I suppose one could cut the seals--obviously just don't want to replace them again soon.

 

That's what I was going to say. Pull the rubber caps off and run them using the correct lube in the knuckles.
My Volvo has run for 170,000 miles as far as I know on the same U joints. How many miles are you planning to put on your front end?

 

Sorry about that-yes I understand how it is supposed to work-my point was that if I put a greaseable joint in id have to grease it and it would no longer be lubed by the knuckle pudding. Only the bearings would be.

The rig wont really see payment as a rule so perhaps pulling the seals would work fine. Guess I'm just stunned to find that the correct ones are no longer sold. I was thinking a sealed joint would be a good alternative as lubrication wouldn't be a concern.

 

http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=acton&key=40507

well found someone with the original style--pricey

 

well like I said. I dont think there is any difference between the greaseable ones and the "maintinence free" non greaseable ones except for the absence of a grease fitting. In any case im sure any of the 3 types will work for many years to come because its in a sealed knuckle where water and dirt wont be getting to it like open knuckles.

 

i would just take the rubber seals off and run it. take the zerk off too and run the pudding. the pudding will get in there where it needs to go and you will be ok. really the only difference is the grease able ones have veins drilled in the center of the cross shafts to disperse the grease to each cup.

 

On my Jimmy, the open knuckle Dana 44 has non-greasable joints. This probably doesn't apply to the closed knuckle 25, but one of the reasons they use sealed joints is the articulation of the axle at max turn leaves no room for it.

 

There are replacement greaseable u-joints available for open knuckle axles. They use a special low profile cup type fitting that requires a needle adapter for your grease gun to lube them. They fit with no issues, even at full lock. I agree, one with a standard zerk fitting wouldn't work. I would think the oem's used sealed joints for cost and less maintenance reasons on the assembly line and at the dealership.

 

Looks like I need to check out the u-joints on my rebuilt 1972 D30 axle now. Don't see any zerks, better make sure huh?

 

I would to be safe. Probably most people put the non-greaseable ones in but there are greaseable ones.

 

I rebuilt the axle myself with all new stuff, but that's been a few years ago and I don't even remember where I got the parts from. I can only hope I bought the "right" u-joints, I'm sure I didn't know they needed to be zerkless.

 

I should clarify my earlier post. The correct replacement grease able joints have the shallow "cup" for greasing the joint that requires the needle adapter. A correct replacement u-joint will not have a standard zerk fitting.

 

Well I thought I'd follow up with what I found. Ended up on the opposite side of the state for work and went to an old napa parts house I used to go to when I lived in lake city. Told the old codger what I needed. He dusted off an old book he had-confirmed it was the knuckle ujoint not the driveshaft-- walked in the back and got two.
We checked it against mine and found it matched up. Then he says "oh by the way there is a notation in here to remove the rubber seals in closed knuckle applications". So there it is-right from the maker of the joint

Which by the way is Precision 365 super strength. 015-2053-8 made in the US of A

i got it installed tonight. Left the rubber on until it was all installed then used a little pick to peel out the rubber and cut them.

 

http://midwestjeepwillys.com/cj5-cj6-frontaxleparts.html #19 Less that $30