Turn Signal On Fenders?

I'm two weeks into owning a "67 CJ-5 project. I just noticed that none of the 1967 CJ-5's I'm looking at online have the turn signals on the fenders like the one I just brought home.
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos?pid=6019789931874367346&oid=102383953834162637012

Was this an option?
Could these fenders be from a different model year?

Any information is much appreciated.

Jim

 

The fender marker lights were added in 1969. They are the same otherwise. It is also cheaper to buy the fenders with marker lights so I would saw they have been replaced. Not uncommon for this to happen.

 

Invalid page from the link but CJ's never had turn signals on the fenders. There were marker lights added in late '69. Earlier '69 had reflectors on the sides of the hood right behind the hood latches.

 

Looking at your photos those are not the original fenders and the signal light on top was added.


https://plus.google.com/photos/102383953834162637012/albums/6019789926009545825

 

Yes. Those lollipop lights were added by a PO.

 

Thanks everyone, very insightful.

Unfortunately I have no VIN number plate on the firewall and have yet to find anything on the frame yet, so there is still much to uncover with know about this vehicle. The title has a 10 digit code that is difficult to decipher all that it means. Service manual showed up today with misc engine parts I've ordered, so our fun is starting to begin. I have started it without an alternator but will hopefully have it now running in next couple of days, then on to getting it to stop. Disc brakes?

 

Over rated....
10" drum or better would be 11" drum

 

I respectfully disagree with Jpflat2a on discs being overrated. Especially if you drive on muddy trail or where it's wet. 11" drums can and do work well but discs are self cleaning, fewer moving parts so are less complicated (easier to service), less maintenance, and parts are readily available (although parts are currently readily available for 11" drums). Discs can be a little more work to get set up properly initially but once set up that's it. Ive been down both roads and now everything I own gets discs at least on the front.

 

:iagree:

 

I would take the middle ground here...

Just comparing disks with drums, disks are clearly better. About the only technical downside to disks is that they have a higher unsprung weight than drums. Drums may have an advantage for manual brake applications because they are self-energizing.

Disks are better in the rain since they are self-wiping, they have a longer service interval, they are much easier to service, and they do not fade like drums.

But the 11" drums are still a big upgrade over the 9" and 10" drums. The 11"x2" Bendix brakes used on Jeeps were also used on the Ford F100 pickup (more than 500K annual sales for decades, and many still on the road) and many other cars for many years, so parts are widely available and cheap. It is very unlikely that parts will be scarce or expensive in the foreseeable future.

The 11" brake conversion is an easy bolt-on proposal, and will work with the existing brake hydraulics. You can also easily run cable parking brakes that are actually effective and hold the Jeep on a hill. Some owners here have addressed the fading and water problems of drum brakes by drilling the drums.

Because of the pedal design on these Jeeps, you typically run manual disk brakes if you convert. No personal experience with these, but modern cars with disk brakes are always power boosted. (My '66 VW Squareback had manual disk brakes, but that's one of the few exceptions to the rule). Without a power booster, I understand you must run a soft organic disk brake pad. Does this require more pedal pressure than drums, which self-energize? Don't know - I would expect so. Certainly a softer pad will not last as long, but changing them is no great chore.

So yeah, disk brakes are the premium choice if you want to upgrade. But the 11" drum conversion has a lot of appeal too.

 

Tim has covered the difference's between Drums & Disc's quite well above but I would like to add to that just a little along the topic of Manual Disc brake's.

Putting Disc's on an old Jeep that has Floor pedals and a frame mounted Master Cylinder is basically destined to be a Manual System due to the lack of available space under the floor to install a suitable normal vacuum power boosted system. But , that application can still be done correctly if you understand basic Brake Hydraulic needs........

Just to touch briefly on that a standard Drum system and its related Master Cylinder piston size and related pedal ratios develop a brake line pressure of about 800 PSI. Conversely a Disc system which requires more fluid volume and a higher pressure of about 1200 PSI..........So can you effectively make your disc's happy with your floor mounted Manual System? Absolutely , as long as you address the needed pressure's and volumes required by using the correct sized Master cylinder bore and related pedal ratios. There are some aftermarket folks out there when selling kits that have done the math correctly...........while others that make a junk yard swap struggle with brake performance.