1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Question about Shackles

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by FinoCJ, Apr 4, 2014.

  1. May 29, 2014
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,652
    Update with a question: the first picture is the old 5.75 inch shackles and the second picture is the new 3.25 inch shackles (Warrior). I expected to get more forward angle on the bottom of shackle with the 2.5 inch reduction in length. The front shackles have been torqued to 30 ftlbs, and are definitely free to flex (jumped up and down on bumper to verify). I even loosened them to hand tight and still no forward shackle learn. I have not replaced the rear shackles yet - so the jeep probably has excessive rake, but don't think that could cause the front shackles to stay vertical like this but that is the next step.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    My first thought is that the rear spring mount is bound/seized up, not allowing the spring to pivot properly and spring is literally bending/arching to reach the shorter shackle? I also intend to remove the shocks just to make sure they are not having any affect - I may have to go to a 2 inch shorter shock with the lift reduction anyway. Any ideas or suggestions? many thanks
     
  2. May 29, 2014
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

    Siskiyou Co.
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2012
    Messages:
    815
    Something I just noticed, it looks like you have some lift springs. Depends on the manufacturer, but they might be shorter, pulling your shackle back to vertical.

    Also, there is a town near here called Orofino...
     
  3. May 29, 2014
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784

    Either position with either length shackle at or near vertical +/- is probably the "Worst" position they could be at statically...............when ran at vertical that goes away from the natural geometry and flex that the leaf spring was designed for in both flex and ride.

    Running at a Negative arching towards the rear under compression the shackle tries to shorten the spring and if you were to hit something it could allow them to flip up against the frame which normally bends or breaks the spring. The proper starting point as I mentioned earlier is to have them arch away from the fixed point at say 20 degrees or so thereby allowing the spring to grow in length as it compress's ...........

    On your shocks , get a few buddies over and have them stand on the bumper and get an Idea how short the shock will go under full compression till it hits your axle bump stops. If you can take the top bolt off then see if there is anything left in compressed travel..........Then jack it up and let the suspension hang and take another measurement.........that will be close to the travel and length of a shock you should have for normal driving.

    Your springs look to be lifted which means they have been re-arched which means they are shorter than stock between the pins........that's why the shackles are off.......although not designed for your application up front I have seen guys semi-correct that by using a modified set of boomerang style shackles........which can have clearance issues at the bumper.........the correct way unfortunately to fix that would be to re-position the rear fixed mounts while under compression to get the shackles in the correct position.......that sometimes also means some correction in the steering department..................Your not the first one to run into this issue with lifted springs.
     
  4. May 29, 2014
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,652
    yup - I am trying to get away from the vertical shackles and the possibility of getting the shackle reversed and flipped in against the frame - and was hoping shortening the shackles and the movement of the leaf spring up 2.5 inches to the new shackle would also allow the spring to move forward a bit along the circular arc. It might have, but its miniscule - the lateral movement along the circle at a near horizontal radius is minimal.

    FWIW - eye to eye length of front springs 40.5 inches as best as I can measure (maybe they were stock length springs arched). Don't think I would be interested to move the spring mounting position forward. The 'best' solution probably is to get correct length springs - I know that depends on lift amount - so for those using a 2-2.5 inch lift (like the BDS system), what would a good eye to eye spring length be? This could get expensive fast :(
     
  5. May 29, 2014
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    The spring needs to be relaxed so if you need the height your going to get the same eye to eye.........you could take a leaf out and combine that with your shorter shackle and see how that effects your ride height , ride and shackle position...........Just a thought!
     
  6. May 29, 2014
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,652
    Sorry, let me clarify and break my thoughts into 2 parts: 1) What is the ideal length spring eye to eye cord length and 2) possible options to work with current springs.

    1) Not sure I have the money to get a brand new or nicely used set of springs, but would still like to know what the ideal set-up would be so I can at least make a decision with some understanding of various trade-offs. From what I am learning the leaf spring eye to eye chord length should be about 2 inches longer that the eye to eye length of the spring/shackle mounts - this would provide the extra distance needed to get the shackle to have the proper alignment. Ideally a lift spring should still have this same eye to eye chord length, but the spring with more arch would be longer when measured along the arc of the spring. I guess the key question then is, if the direct distance between the spring mounts is 38.5 inches for this Jeep, then the ideal spring would is about 40 inches eye to eye chord length? In a perfect world I would buy a 2 inch lift spring that had about a 40 inch cord length (and of course would be more like 43 inches in arc length to accommodate the extra lift) - I assume if you buy a lift spring kit this would be accounted for from a reputable retailer.

    2) The measurements for the current springs are 38.5" chord length - which is the same as the mount distance and thus the vertical shackles. Arc length of spring is 40.5+ inches. The spring would have to be mostly un-arched (flat) to provide enough chord length for proper shackle alignment. Can the arch in the leafs be removed by a spring shop - seems like if they can add arch, they could also remove it? Might be a better way to flatten the spring than removing a leaf without changing the spring flex as much. A very small amount of arch of the springs and the 3.25 inch shackles might be enough to clear 31s.

    thanks all - this has been super helpful for my understanding
     
  7. May 29, 2014
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    Fino,

    I think your over thinking this .........there is no Ideal eye to eye length other than in your case the stock length between the eyes that Willys engineered into that vehicle.......so lets back up a second and first ask what are you trying to accomplish?
    If its lift......then the only way to get lift is to either move the springs over the axle ( adds about +5-6 inches from stock) or have a lifted spring as you do with arch built into it. The arch is the lift that someone required and it's basically
    re-arching the spring to make lift.........which in another since is making the spring pack stiffer to hold the weight up higher.........Lifted springs because of that do not ride very well but neither does the stock 8-9 spring packs.

    Someone who installed that package first perhaps had a different Idea and was looking for even more lift as the shackles were the wrong length from the start as Stock is only 2.75" C/C.... by installing the long shackles it changed the Castor angle on the front end and also the Pinion angle which will hurt the drivability ............I'll bet there is also some issues at your steering brought on by the lift? Sometimes the springs just need to get seasoned a little ......or relaxed to the point where they start to fit the application or you have a set of custom ones built to your specs.

    No one can tell you which way to go unless we know what your looking for? Hope this helps!


    Note: Your "Steering Linkage Clearance "thread............. needs to be connected to this "Question about Shackles" as the problem starts here!
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2014
  8. May 29, 2014
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2011
    Messages:
    5,421
    there was another post about shackles . and both jeeps look like springs are too short . or too much arc in spring packs . I just wonder if you were to just use stock shackles , that the front of spring would possible move forward . I just ask this because I have had rancho 2 1/2 springs for years and mine are forward of pivot point in front. one other question about picture of shocks . never seen them mounted like that . I guess things have changed over the years
    here's other thread
    http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?109067-one-shackle-is-up
     
  9. May 30, 2014
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,652
    "Fino,

    I think your over thinking this ........."


    Probably true....but seems like one should be able to buy/make aftermarket lift springs that do not cause the shackles to be vertical by having the necessary arch for the lift and the necessary length for the shackle position. Seems like my current springs are designed to be run flat with minimal arch - so trying to use them as a lift spring with extra arch has the problem of being too short.

    there is no Ideal eye to eye length other than in your case the stock length between the eyes that Willys engineered into that vehicle.......

    I think I understand what you are saying - and that is what I am asking here: How much longer should the spring be than the mount distance to create the correct shackle alignment (I think you have mentioned about 20 degree angle). Seems like that would be accomplished with about 1.5 inch longer spring than mount distance given a reasonable shackle length of around 3 inches or so. For that matter, what did the Willys engineers design (ie stock spring length)?

    so lets back up a second and first ask what are you trying to accomplish?

    Currently I am trying to lower the vehicle from its current lifted height (approx. 4+ (?) inch lift with both spring and shackle) to a more moderate 2-2.5 inch (clear 31x10.5) lift and hopefully improve handling/steering characteristics with shorter shackles, improved caster (might also need shims) less bump steer, etc.

    No one can tell you which way to go unless we know what your looking for?

    In short: 'Ideally' I am looking for a spring (not necessarily these springs) that will provide a 2.5 inch lift over stock (which is lowered from current state) without being too short and causing shackle issues. Was wondering if anyone has info on the length of the springs for 2.5 inch lift such as BDS or Rancho or whatever. It just gives me a comparison to work with. My 'ideal' is what would be the best solution if money were not the issue - such as getting new springs. It might be worth the money if that is the root cause of the problems. Otherwise, also looking at solutions that might use current springs - possibly through removing the arch lift to make the spring 'longer'? Not so interested to change the spring mount locations.

    Hope this helps!

    YES - MANY THANKS and I hope my description is more clear.

    Note: Your "Steering Linkage Clearance "thread............. needs to be connected to this "Question about Shackles" as the problem starts here!

    Agreed - more reason to shorten the shackles as well as to get correct length springs. Then can look into shims and steering clearance if needed.
     
  10. May 30, 2014
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,652
    Dropping down to short shackles did not help as shown in photos - didn't quite drop all the way down to stock 2.75 inch shackles, but dropping from 5.75 to 3.25 had almost no affect. Basically - it does appear the springs are too short for the amount of arc/lift. Shocks are mounted upside down as the shock body doesn't like to fit between the mount and steering stop bolts on the axle. Seems to be somewhat common possibly because newer shocks have larger diameter tubes? Plus, if I can ever get the correct spring and shackles and correct caster, that might create some additional clearance to mount shocks upright.
     
  11. May 30, 2014
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784

    Short answer is call a good spring manufacture ( Deaver , Alcan , ) and get a set of springs that have a true 2.5 -3 inch lift.......they will naturally be longer because they will have less arch and lift.

    Yours look to be the stock 1.750" wide spring.......is that correct? they also look to be a fairly thick material maybe 5/16" ? and maybe 5-6 leafs? With nothing to loose I think I would still pull a leaf and see what you get? They may be just fine ................the only downside may be that they could be over stressed by the weight and not last very long but I think it's worth a try.
     
  12. May 30, 2014
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,652
    Thanks Tarry -

    yes to all the questions - springs are stock 1.75" wide, 5/16 thick leafs with 5 leafs. Any suggestion as to which leaf to remove - the bottom/shortest one? The spring pack does ride stiff as you already inferred - at 160lbs I can jump up and down on the bumper and only get a 2-3 inches of movement so maybe it can support the load. Mechanically removing the arch from the springs isn't really an option - guess it could weaken the spring too much?

    I will be on the road (and beach) for most of the next 2 weeks - so my short term plan is to finish putting the shorter shackles on the rear (which seems to have the same overarched, short spring issues as the front) and get it back to drivable. Will also research replacement springs with proper lift and length.

    thanks
     
  13. May 30, 2014
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,470
    Just for the record - there are 2 ways to measure springs and BOTH need to be used for the correct fit. One is Hole to Hole in a straight line (fit from sitting). The second is along the top spring from Hole to Hole (true spring length). This ensures you have the proper fit at rest and in motion.

    I got this from a guy here in the Springs that builds his own springs and runs a suspension shop (where I get my U bolts made).
     
  14. May 30, 2014
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    Chuck,

    You are right...........and for this thread to help Fino and others out it may help to expand a little on this subject:

    Most spring people only talk in the true length of the spring from eye to center bolt which is measured on the curve........They also talk about Free Arch which is the measurement from the top of the spring pack using a datum line through both eyes.

    On all stock CJ's the axle pin is centered and we see measurements that should be equal from either end..........although on allot of other vehicles there is an offset pin with a short and long side of the spring. These offset springs can also be used in the CJ's when a stretch in wheelbase is desired , but this would also result in drive line , castor & steering issues that need to be corrected.

    Confusing yes! But for the most part these spring guys know the stock dimensions between the eyes on the chassis or you should tell them that and can usually build a spring that fits and offers the results that each owner is looking for except when it comes to lifted springs and unknown sprung weight........here lies the guessing game whereby results are its either to high or not high enough or its too soft or to harsh of ride. Common Complaints these spring guys deal with.

    On my next build I went a little out of the box and had Deaver first build me some single leaf arched setup springs........of the length , width and off set I desired for both front & rear.......once the chassis and suspension is finished and all the components and weight is installed I will weigh the sprung weight and add whatever weight the occupants are along with additional gear and then he will finish building the spring packs with the Free Arch / lift & ride I desire............even then the fixed mounts opposite the shackled ends on the chassis will be just tacked in place and adjusted for proper distance to get the correct starting shackle angle we desire once its set on the ground...........I guess this could be called going the long way around and thus eliminating most of the guessing?
     
  15. Jun 2, 2014
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,652
    Thanks fellas - have had minimal time to investigate further and will not be able to for another week. Having the proper terminology will help while gathering info. I think my use of the term chord length is probably not standard terminology for automotive practice (would be the same as the length along the datum), and will ensure to clarify the true, along the curve length. It helps when we all speak the same language.

    Initial review suggests cost may not be totally limiting - might be able to just replace the springs with proper length and can also get the lift I want with proper length shackles and alignment. Of course, the exhaust system may have to wait for the summer.
     
  16. Jun 3, 2014
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,470
    Just for you to think over, I have both a set of Skyjacker Softrides and BDS springs here on projects. If you want to see them in person before ordering a set.

    I also use the Shackles from McRuff on my rigs. He makes those from a pattern I gave him a few years back. I keep a spare set in the box if you want to check them out.
     
  17. Jun 3, 2014
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,652
    Thanks Chuck - I might take you up on that in a couple weeks when my travel schedule settles down. Are both your Skyjacker and BDS set-ups the 1.75" wide leafs? Do you think the two set-ups are pretty comparable or are there some differences? I have gotten only a few recommendations so far, but seems the BDS come with a lot of positive reviews.

    thanks
     
  18. Jun 5, 2014
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,470
    Both are the stock 1.75" wide setups. The Skyjacker is for a lighter rig (3A on a 5 frame) and the BDS is for a 5 that will have a hard top on it at some point.
     
  19. May 28, 2015
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,652
    Reviving an old thread of mine here as I am back to this project - question is really more about leaf springs...

    As my current front leaf springs are too short - front shackles hang vertically - I am basically, wondering if the following springs that I found on CL would work :
    A set of front Superlift leaf springs (supposedly never used 4" lift springs) has the following dimensions (under no weight - just sitting on floor):
    1.75" wide (appropriate for ECJ)
    38" straight line eye to eye
    6.5" free arch
    20.5" straight line center pin to eye
    no info on true spring length (length along the surface of the top leaf)

    My jeep has straight line eye to eye measurement of 38.5" between the spring hangers. I assume the superlift springs would begin to flatten under the weight of the vehicle and would lengthen the straight line measurement and help get my shackles at proper forward angle?

    thanks all
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2015
  20. May 30, 2015
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,470
    James - measure along the leaf eye to eye, that is the proper way to measure the springs to see if they fit. With that much lift noted, who knows what that may be.
     
New Posts