Front drum to Disk conversion

I know this has been talked about before, but im looking for some clarification.


Im looking to replace my drum brakes with disk in the front end of my 75 CJ-5, it has stock Dana 30 with Warn locking hubs.
The conversion kits i see online are around $900, a lot of money..... I don't have many options for donor CJ around here.
For what i can understand, Any CJ newer then 1976 with disk brakes should work with no problems ( correct me if im wrong).

I guess the other info im looking for is what else would work with little to no problems.
If im searching Craigslist or junk yard for parts, is there other vehicles that will be interchangeable which may be more available?

Thanks

 

1977 was the first year for optional disk brakes. At some point a few years later, they became standard ... not sure which year.

Go to "car-part.com" and do a search for complete 4WD front axle for a '77 CJ-5. The idea is to change complete from knuckles out - I don't recall whether you need the axle shafts or not. For the Boston are there were at least a dozen listing, some incomplete (likely good for what you want). All the places that listed a price were less than $300 for the complete axle.

When you call, make it clear you want disk brakes and only want the knuckles out.

You can also try some of the 4WD forums. The 30 is a throw-away part for the Pirate guys. The parts would be cheaper private party, but availability may be an issue. For just the knuckles out, you might be able to afford shipping them.

 

You'll need the axle stubs too. It's a pretty easy swap, but be aware that some old style wheels don't fit over the brake caliper...like the Jeep slots, without a spacer of some sort. Great upgrade though. Lots of info on this forum. I'd search for a bit to really get yourself educated.

 

Get some 1/2 ton GM/Chevy truck brackets and calipers with a 501311 (I think) inner hub race, and they work great.

 

It looks like this is not going to be a easy task, But very doable with the proper info going into it. I guess a simple plug n play is not going to happen.
Thank you all for the feedback.

 

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?107629-2-Bolt-Disc-Brakes-for-Dana-30

 

That looks like what i need... I have never had anything that heavy shipped to me.. I am very interested.

 

Does the dana 30 disk swap work like the dana 27, using 1 1/8" rotors and chevy k10 calipers and brackets?

 

supertrooper - yes sir, you got it.

 

When I converted my 75 to disc 20 yrs. ago I sourced from the Dana 30 knuckles outward off an 81 CJ. I also used 1980 wheel hubs in order to use the 6 bolt locking hubs instead of the weaker 5 bolt hubs.

FWIW,
Mike

 

Easy is relative. If you get all your parts from a later model CJ as noted, then with a little mechanical knowledge and tools you should have no problem. It was one of the better upgrades I've done, it really helps on the road to keep the Jeep in a straight line when braking hard...and it helps off-road too since the calipers and disks shed water and dirt much better than drums.

 

Easy is relative. If you get all your parts from a later model CJ as noted, then with a little mechanical knowledge and tools you should have no problem. It was one of the better upgrades I've done, it really helps on the road to keep the Jeep in a straight line when braking hard...and it helps off-road too since the calipers and disks shed water and dirt much better than drums.

In a nutshell:
1. Get the knuckle, all mounted brake parts on the knuckle, outer axle stub shaft, and all parts of the hub (spindles, 6 bolt locking hubs, etc.)
2. Replace the seals and bearings (cheap insurance)
3. New calipers, brake pads, and rotors
4. New ball joints (highly recommended since you're in it this far)
5. Master cylinder for Disk/Drum combo.

I think that about spells out the basic stuff. Obviously "new" is always dependent on the condition of your donor and existing parts.

Interestingly enough, when I did mine I just bought the whole axle with parts intact and took them apart when at home. I found that the '79 axle shaft was a little larger diameter than my original '74 axle shaft so I ended up changing out the entire axle, not just the stubs. Then I sold the donor axle housing with differential.

 

you forgot the axle u joints do them too...

 

If I would of known at the time I did my 73' Dana 30 axle it would of save me money. I paid $300 for 85' knuckle out parts only to find that I used three parts from them.
There was so many changes to the stub shaft and seals it gets confusing. These parts are the only parts you will need. Knuckles, calipers, and rotors. You can use all the parts you already have. Why buy extra parts if you already have them. The problem that you will have is. I had to machine the back of your 6 bolt hubs, so the rotor will fit flat on the hub. (Rotor goes on the back side of the hub.) also you will need the correct wheel studs.

 

Thank you all, this is good info

 

There are kits out there far cheaper than $900 contact R&P 4 WD Parts Inc at 503-557-8911 or do a simple google search. They have front and rear disc conversions in true bolt-on for almost half the $900 and are all new parts...


Sent from my iPhone

 

This^. You can use GM caliper brackets and calipers and Jeep rotors. Machine the back of your existing wheel hub so the rotor sits flat. I had to take a little more off of my hub after skimming them flat because I couldn't get the pad on the back in but it was really easy and cost effective. It helps to have core calipers to go with the brackets and it's alot easier to find off the shelf brake lines if they aren't the metric calipers. Sometimes slight grinding on the knuckles is needed to make sure the brackets sit flush but it's a really easy practically bolt on deal with the right collection of a few parts.

 

here is my stalled progress.

I bought universal brackets, Calipers, brakes,and longer studs.
my hub to rotor match wasn't that bad so i used hand grinder and flatten the hub to match/mate suffice.
Now my problem is i cant get the back pad to fit. Same problem as jeppermc .

To fix this problem, do i have to pound the new studs out and have the hubs machined?

 

Search the forums for 501311 (I think) ... You may need a different bearing race on the back to give you the right spacing .

 

sounds like the thicker race could solve the problem, but not for every application. I'm not sure if it will work for me. What i would like to know is if i have the hub
machined down significantly if that would solve my problem.