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Building my 66 CJ6 to look capable of things it will never do

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by bcurtman, Jan 9, 2014.

  1. Jun 16, 2014
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
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    1,212
    just kidding, it came out very well, pat yourself on the back.
     
  2. Jun 16, 2014
    cj6/442

    cj6/442 Sponsor

    Fallbrook, Calif
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2008
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    2,734
    looks great ,, I like the look of the rig sits nice , I know that feeling of driving it when it's been all over the garage for a LONG time ....

    maybe the front tires will rub on the shocks when twisted? I had to backcut my ford towers and reduce the angle built into them ....
     
  3. Jun 18, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    283
    I was able to use the stock front shock mounts on the HD Dana 44 and the Ford towers-no rubbing lock to lock. Haven't twisted it but I think the shocks are angled enough that it will never be a problem. Clutch issue was corrected with a hole saw cutting a new perfectly round pad out of the same old mudflap and 2 minutes with a grinder removing 1/8" of metal by the clutch lever-bolt head was hitting on it. Brake issue is an easy fix too. The master cylinder I used does not have a built in residual pressure valve, so I ordered a 10 psi for the rear and a 2 psi for the front. They'll be here in a day or two-problem solved I'm sure. I'll install the brake light pressure switch at the same time-had forgotten to put one in. Also ordered a thermal switch for the electric fan. I bent the shifter a bit more to my liking last night, and I need to make a few bends to the foot pedal linkage for the accelerator-it kinda cramps my foot as it sits right now. Still have to wire lights, turn signals, and gauges, but I can fire it up and drive it, and that makes me smile.

    I'm gonna be posting some leftovers for sale. Aluminum wheels, hardtop in bad condition, heater, extra t-90 and transfer, extra steering column, glove box door, turn signal switch, etc. Keep an eye on the classifieds and as time allows I'll put up pictures and a price.
     
  4. Jun 20, 2014
    TexasBlues

    TexasBlues JEEP-Hockey-Holic

    Marietta, GA
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
    Messages:
    529
    yummy... you should be VERY proud!!
     
  5. Jun 20, 2014
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2011
    Messages:
    2,119
    Nice job, putting full size axle on the jeep and making look god :)

    I would like to know the distance from outside tire to outside tire because i'm planning to put dana60/14 bolts combo in the future and i want to compare you're set-up with my scout 44 set-up




    keep on the good work !!!


     
  6. Jun 23, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    283
    Outside of tire to outside of tire on the front is 77" The front is a tad wider than the rear, which is typical of chevy axles.

    Took it out for a shakedown run yesterday. Gearing is a little tall in the T-86 even with the 4.56 rears. None too powerful taking off and uphill. It is getting a T-18 for sure, and I'm starting the process of rounding up parts, so if you have something, let me know. I'll be looking for the close ratio version, as I don't need the deep first gear. I guess a T-19 would work as well??? Isn't that the biggest difference as far as the ones out of Scouts? I know, a Ford version is what I need.

    Developed a nasty miss when I got about 3 miles from home after a 20 mile run, and then a horrible hissing sound. Turns out that #5 cylinder blew the porcelain out of the spark plug. I've never seen that happen before! the plugs were very old and the crimp on the porcelain had corroded away. New plugs, new wires, and timing set correctly and it runs WAAAAYYY better. Just hadn't got around to that yet...

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Jun 24, 2014
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    12,529
    There are 3 first gear ratios for T-19's. 4.02-1, 5.something-1, and 6.32-1. T-18's had two ratio's, 4.02-1 and 6.32-1.

    If you want a T-19 you will have to go with an aftermarket adapter as the Scout T-19 to 20 adapter has no provision for a mount, and neither does the Ford case ;).
    With the T-18 you can use the Ford case and Jeep or Scout adapter. Might look at some of T-18 build threads and do a search on this (if you haven't). Lots of good info on here with a few pitfalls to watch out for.
     
  8. Jun 24, 2014
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
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    3,784
    Novak sells a T-19 4-Speed close ratio 5.00 low gear w/ full syncro's in all gears adapted to whatever your configuration may be.
     
  9. Jun 25, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    Someone not too far from me had called wanting to buy my Dana / Spicer 18 transfer case if I did a swap. If you are still following this, I have one mated to a T-90c listed in the classifieds. I am going ahead with the swap to a T-18 transmission, but may or may not end up keeping my transfer, as I would prefer to go to a centered rear output Dana 20, 203, or maybe even a 205. Depends a lot on whether I find a tranny with a transfer bolted to it already that will work for me. Eliminating one adapter would be nice.
     
  10. Jun 30, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    283
    Is the NP435 transmission a bad choice? It seems like it is very closely related to the T-18. Can someone give me a heads up on its good and bad points as far as installing behind my 225 V-6? I'd like to put one in front of a Dana 20 centered output transfer case. Thanks!

    For what its worth....winch, people, new front springs, extra PS pump, master cylinder, maybe heavier fenders....these are all things that have contributed, but my front springs are settling DOWNWARD quickly and my awesome shackle angle has diminished to an undesirable angle. Do I move the shackle or add a leaf?
     
  11. Jun 30, 2014
    jeepermc

    jeepermc Active Member

    Western WA
    Joined:
    May 25, 2011
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    1,193
    I have an NP435 in my flat fender. They are very similar to the T-18 as you saw, with one downside worth noting. The adapter for the NP435 is 5-6 inches where the adapter for a T-18 is about an inch thick. It won't matter in your application because of the longer rear driveshaft, but worth noting when considering this swap in a swb jeep.
     
  12. Jul 6, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    283
    I guess my search for a T18 is picking up speed. We took a 3 hour or so cruise Friday and by the time I got home, my T-86 would not stay in first gear at all. No indications of trouble prior to this. It just started growling a little in first and then progressed to shaking the shifter and spitting it out of first and now letting out the clutch results in the shifter immediately heading towards the dash. 2nd and 3rd are fine. I did a little reading and this sounds common.

    So, I have this T-90c sitting in the barn. Anyone have a cheap adapter to put that behind my 225 til I gather all the T-18 stuff up? Bummer.
     
  13. Jul 6, 2014
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    12,529
    If the T-90 is the long shaft version ( I can never remember T90c vs. b vs. whatever) then put the guts from the T-90 in the T-86 case. One shift fork will need changed as well.
     
  14. Jul 7, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    283
    It's that easy? I can just put the T90C stuff in the 86 case... then I'm on it. I just wanted to be able to drive it through the summer and do the engine rebuild, T-18, and Dana 20 or 300 all at once this winter. Thanks a ton. There is no price that would cover the knowledge on here.
     
  15. Jul 8, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    My T90 is a "c" version. I took the cover off last night, separated it from the transfer case, and flipped it upside down to drain. Everything appears to be in excellent shape inside. I'd like to put these internals into my T-86 case. As I understand it right now, I will need a "j" input shaft (11-1/2") and a matching 18 tooth cluster gear to make this work. New, those are $377 from Advance Adapters (716014 and 716018 ) and I can buy a T-18 and Dana 20 for very close to that. If someone wants to trade a J shaft and cluster gear, both 18 tooth versions, for my 16 tooth C input shaft and cluster, I'm up for that. Otherwise it looks like I am headed towards the T-18 sooner. I can drive it with a bad 1st gear for a while-carefully. Ill just have to be creative when taking off on hills and use the transfer case. We just cruise the gravel roads-so its not seeing any heavy use.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014
  16. Jul 14, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
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    Jan 8, 2014
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    So, not quite that easy....I just ordered a Omix-Ada 18880.09 input gear and a 18880.22 cluster gear along with a rebuild kit. Go figure, the t-90 I had in the shed had the wrong gears to just swap into the t-86 case. I should be set now. I found a t-18 with a Dana 20 behind it, but it's 3 states away and I think I'll just wait and do all that with the engine rebuild this winter. That will give me time to catch someone going that way or coming this way to get it home. I'm hoping this is a good fix for the meantime and gives me a sale able t-86 when I'm done with it. I'll also soon have the "c" transmissions 16 tooth input and 35 tooth cluster available, and I understand they are desirable pcs.
     
  17. Aug 3, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    Been away for a while. We took a brief family vacation to northern Michigan-beautiful country. Got back late Friday so yesterday I hopped on the tranny issue.

    I need some help....

    I gutted the t-86 and found the cluster gear really chewed up. We removed the reverse idler gear as well. Slowly took apart the T-90 and transferred everything from it into the t-86 case with the exception of the new cluster gear and new main drive gear. It all went very smoothly, but now I have a problem. No second gear and seems like it want to be in more than one gear at a time. I made sure to use the t-90 shifter and housing on the t-86 case as the 2nd and 3rd fork is a different width. I know I brought this on myself, and I'm getting to that. When I take the shifter housing off and put everything in neutral, I have wiggle wobble slop in both synchronizers in front of and behind the 2-3 sliding gear.

    Hers what I think I did to cause this. The t-86 had a big hole Dana 18 behind it just like it was supposed to. It leaked from every orifice at every opportunity. The 18 behind the t-90c however looked nice and dry. It's a small hole version. So I put the small hole adapter plate from the t-90 in the t-86 and I took out the small (maybe 1/4") spacer on the output shaft and it all bolted up. I need someone to confirm or deny that I either can't run a small hole 18 behind a t-86 or that leaving that spacer out is creating the slop between the main drive gear and the shaft with the 2-3 gear on it. The t-90 stuff showed basically no wear. At least pulling the transfer case won't be as involved as removing it all again. In the meantime, my t18 Dana 20 combo from a 70's cherokee has arrived...

    Please let me know your thoughts. Just to head off the theory- I am sure that all the bearings in the main drive gear hole are properly in place for the other shafts pilot. I can take a large screwdriver and basically take up all the slack, which tells me something is missing spacer wise at the back end. Thanks in advance for your input.
     
  18. Aug 4, 2014
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    You need that spacer on the mainshaft. You are correct in saying it controls the mainshaft endplay. You can put a small hole transfer case on the T-86 case like you did. You remove the rear bearing retainer and bearing that centers the large hole case, install the T-90 rear retainer, and the small hole bearing that centers the transfer case in the T-90 rear retainer. The spacer goes between the mainshaft and that bearing and keeps the transmission mainshaft from sliding rearward.
     
  19. Aug 4, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    Just going from memory on Saturday...but does the big hole bearing holder (that the bearing sets fully inside of) actually set the bearing farther towards the transfer case-allowing room for that spacer, and does the small hole bearing adapter (that the bearing just sets in a little bit) actually have the bearing farther towards the front of the transmission, maybe requiring a different thickness spacer??? I'm going to take it apart tonight (transfer case off of tranny) but that's what I seem to remember, and perhaps is why I took the spacer off the shaft when I put the small hole adapter on the back of the tranny.

    I appreciate the input more than words can say. I hope I can be of help to all of you some day as well.
     
  20. Aug 4, 2014
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    12,529
    I can't remember for sure if the T-86 and T-90 spacers are the same thickness but I'd use the T-90 unit to be sure as that is the mainshaft, retainer, etc. that you used.
    You mentioned in your pm that the shaft felt a little tight which is why you removed the spacer. Remember, the mainshaft nut clamps the mainshaft, spacer, bearing, and transfer case input gear all together. When tightened down it will pull the mainshaft back slightly giving you clearance needed for the blocking rings, etc. and then it should rotate freely.
     
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