Building my 66 CJ6 to look capable of things it will never do

Oh, and regarding the size of a 14 bolt, yeah, I know. Just put a 14 bolt and Dana 44 HD under that 57 IH you see behind the CJ6. Building that for my son, but it is nearing the end of my work. I put Saginaw power steering (it was a lot like a Ross system!), a tilt column, a dual chamber chevy master cylinder, ran all new brake lines, plus the rearends both completely gone through, under it. I don't do body work. The bed, hood and front clip are at the sandblasters, and when I go get them I'll take the cab. Someone else will have to do the paint, but it was an amazingly rust free and straight truck for its age. A-120 4x4.

I'll probably run 255/85/16's and I want to be low and wide for stability. Thanks for the concerns though!

 

You should be able to use that old BOP Bell Housing, but the Ford Borg Warner T-18's pattern is different............you can elongate the two top holes in the tranny ( been done a thousand times ) to get those two on top to line up. A true Ford T-18 case will also have two un-drilled bosses that are between the upper and lower pattern on the transmission.........you can drill those two un-drilled bosses out and then put two new holes in your old BOP Bell-housing...............the bearing collar also needs to be turned down a little to fit the smaller OD large hole in the Housing...............as far as the clutch linkage if you like the cable it can stay.

But , before you get excited the tranny you have must only have a 6.5" stick-out on the input shaft to work....................

 

Im confused you found a ford trans and a scout T ,,,,, the T case could be a d20 or the uber cool d300......makes a big difference

 

Yes. As far as I know, I'm going to need both the ford t-18 and the scout t-18 with the scout adapter and Dana 20 to make a working combo. Put the scout output shaft in the ford case, do some drilling, plugging, tapping, and I'll have a t-18 and Dana 20 bolted up to the v-6. I'm understating all the work, but I've been reading and watching, and I think I've got it. Wheelie has had an amazing detailed build going on this. I may keep the Dana 18 if I can, cause I think an overdrive would be cool. Had one on a 64 tuxedo park cj5 with an f-head years ago and it was exceptional for road use.

Got the axles / springs out from under her tonight. Rivets cut off and drove out. Tomorrow night will be quality time with the grinder, then I'll start welding holes shut. Won't have my 3.5" wrangler springs til the end of the month per quadratec, so I have nothing but time. No way I can plan too far ahead without the springs as I am doing a front shackle reversal while I'm at it and I'll need the actual springs to set the shackle angle- actually at both ends. Still waiting on the hangers and all from Barnes off road, but I suspect they will arrive tomorrow or Wednesday.

 

Axles are both out. No spring shackles were damaged. Putting them in the classifieds in just a minute. A friend of mine who I planned on getting the 4.10 Dana 44HD front from has come up with a 4.10 12 bolt rear, so I'm going to look at it this afternoon. May be an alternative to the 14 bolt, depending on what he wants for it.

 

I like the counter balance in the last pic

 

Funny that you mentioned that. It was nearly perfectly balanced where the front jackstands are-could literally just use those two. I told my son to set that on there so someone doesn't unknowingly capsize the apple cart!

 

I'd recommend using a Jeep adapter instead of Scout. The Scout T-18 adapter "clocks" or rotates the transfer case down quite a bit reducing ground clearance at the low point of the transfer case. The Jeep "clocks" it up higher. Otherwise they are identical although there can be rubber mount bolt pattern differences (wider vs. narrower) depending on what year and model the adapter was used.


Sent from my iPhone

 

Oooooooooooooooh. I didn't know that. ..................recalculating.............

I've already drilled and tapped my T18 case for the Scout adapter. Will the jeep adapter use the same holes I drilled?

 

Yup. You can tell a Jeep adapter because the top two transfer case holes in the adapter are virtually horizontal. If you look at the Scout adapter the right top transfer case mounting hole is lower than the top left. Put the adapter on a table on the bottom mount surface a d put a straight edge centered on those two top transfer case mounting holes. It will be readily apparent.
Not saying you shouldn't use the Scout adapter. It works quite well. Just something to be aware of if you are trying to get every bit of belly clearance under your Jeep.

Otherwise they are the same other than the rubber mount bolt pattern differences I
Mentioned above. You can re-drill and tap the bottom of the adapter if you are careful to fit different mounts also, so that is really not a big issue.


Sent from my iPhone

 

You are a wealth of information as apparent by this and many other posts I have read. Thank you for the info!

Big Hub Dana 44 front and 12 Bolt rear are being delivered tonight. I may have paid a bit much for them, but they are both excellent and will require little more than new calipers, wheel cylinders, and some paint.

Didn't get to the frame grinding and cleanup yet. School Board takes up some of my time but I really enjoy it. Selling insurance doesn't really give me that feeling that I am contributing or making a difference, but being on the Board of Education does.

 

It would appear that, for once, my procrastination was a good thing. Now ISO.........

I learn so much here. Thanks for that.

 

Rearends were delivered last night...and I guess the guy I bought them from wasn't sure what was what. The Big Hub Dana 44HD has flat top knuckles on both sides..chaching! Makes it easy to drill and tap the passenger side for steering. The 12 bolt rear actually has ten bolts...and it is a Dana 60. The build code (603322-3) shows 1972 Chevy C-20 Dana 60 with 4.56 gears...chaching! I'm ordering wheel cylinders and shoes for it today. Rearend first, then I'll work on the front since the back is sooo light right now.

 

One bit if advice, do not use bolts to bolt the arms on. Use appropriate studs, cones, and lock nuts. Bolts tent to shear. Watched it happen on several occasions.


Sent from my iPhone

 

You bet. I have a local machine shop I've been friends with for twenty years who will do the drilling and tapping for me on a mill. I ran / managed machine shops and did plastic injection mold design for 6 years after college. Never learned G code programming so I became a dinosaur quickly. I was able to find the exact layout for the stud holes on the passenger side on another site if anyone needs the link.

 

I may be getting ahead of myself, but I was looking at my fuel tank options for the cj-6 this afternoon after we shot the frame on my sons truck with por-15. I'm going to either put a 7" thick large flat tank under the rear seat or a 7" wide tall skinny tank between the rear seat and the tailgate. What have you all done for non-stock fuel tanks, keeping in mind I can't do between frame in rear as I am keeping the hitch? Should I post a separate thread for this?

 

Here are a few pics of weekend progress. Frame painted. After all work is done it will be recoated with POR-15. Both rearends high pressure powerwashed with degreaser and hot water. Dana 60 stripped and all perches and mounts removed. 4.56 gears verified as correct. Dana 44 front set on table and calipers and truck steering arm pulled. Pic shows flat top passenger side. Stamped number confirms it is 1975 Dana 44 HD. Has Spicer lockouts! They work! Have to pull the passenger knuckle off for drilling and tapping and then get the gears changed to 4.56 Do I have to change carriers going from 4.10 to 4.56???

 

Case change on a Dana 44 is 3.92 down to 5.38 and 3.73 up to 2.54.
So, 4.56 and 4.10 share the same case on a 44.


Sent from my iPhone

 

Thanks! Again, a wealth of information. I anyone has some really clean 4.56 gears for a Dana 44, I'm looking.

 

Check out fuel cells they make them in all kinds of sizes and shapes to fit most any where.