Brake MC Bracket from Herm ?

Does anyone know if Herm sells the bracket by itself?

Does anyone have a part number for a MC that will go in the factory slot on a '65CJ5 ?

If not then my daughter will just buy the one/setup off Herm for $150.00

Thanks,
Jim

 

I would suggest doing a search on this before spending the money. Some people have had "difficulties" with this kit, some have had no issues. Make sure you purchase all the parts you will need. Trying to piece together a kit can cost much more in money, time, and frustration in the long run. That's why "other" kits cost a bit more, they are much more complete and few if any issues.

yes, Herm sells the bracket only. Did you check his web site? Have you contacted him?

 

I did check his web site but didn't want to be rude and ask only for the bracket etc.

If there are "OTHER" kits available that will work easily/install easier, then I'm all ears

The OEM looks like a pain to get off/to. I'm sure I have to drop the exhaust pipe.

Thanks,
Jim

I was going to use swing pedals but I don't have time/winter etc. That will come later.

 

Asking him is not rude at all. He runs a business and answering questions like that is simply part of business and customer service.

I installed the kit at the link below on my '59 CJ-5 this summer and I really like it. It was complete and easy to install. Best of all it came with pretty much everything needed except the tool to modify the lines. The metal lines needed modified but that's true of any kit. Everything lined up right out of the box. No shimming or messing around. Fwiw this is the kit Kaiser-Willys sells, these guys supply it to them. There are tons of reviews on the internet of both kits. Might check out E-Willys for some of them or do a search.

http://shop.rp4wd.com/product/willys-jeep-cj-dual-res-master-cylinder-conversion-kit

it comes set up for drum/drum, Disc/drum, or Disc/Disc.

I needed a new master cylinder and a few metal lines needed replaced so I took the plunge. I used it this summer and it worked awesome! It was very easy to install. I had to drill 3 holes in the frame I think was all other than the afore-mentioned line mods. I really like the remote reservoirs too. Much easier to check/maintain the system. The master cylinder has bleeders built right in too so bleeding is easy.

 

I should say the kit I linked to comes in kit form only, they won't sell just the bracket afaik. The master cylinder is a Wilwood unit so replacement parts are readily available from them, Summit Racing, Jeg's, etc.
I can take a couple pics later if you are interested.


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Sweet-that does look nice and easier to check/not to forget about it until .......

The holes you drilled in the frame, did you need an angle drill due to the engine block etc?

The lines you replaced-those just came off the MC to the "T" block going to the drums or ?

Pic ?

Thank you-we are looking to get her a setup that will be the best for her.

Jim

 

fb

 

IIRC, I bolted the MC frame to the outside of the frame & marked them for drilling from the outside. I used a regular drill.
The lines I replaced (3 of them) were straight lines already flared with fittings from Napa for about $15...you have to make your own bends, but a small tube bender is only a couple of bucks. The instructions that come with the kit are well written & easy to follow.

 

Ok thanks got it. I guess I was over thinking it.

Been awhile since I have been under the Jeep.


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Yup, the bracketry acts as a template to show you where to mark and drill the holes. There is no cutting of the original bracketry (single reservoir m/c). I had to remove my driver's side header to drill the holes but I have a V-6 and outside the frame headers. Was for the best as it turns out I had some cracks in the header that needed addressed. I'll get some pics today or tomorrow.


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Ok thank you again for the help-no hurry,
Jim

 

I just did the R&P install tonight and minus bending the lines it only took me 40 minutes to put on everything. That included taking off the old master cyclinder. I did have my exhaust off already though

I think total time will be about 3-4 hours installing and it is really cool because you get to keep your pedals stock, which I like. The guy that runs the place is cool also, I had to speak to him and he came right back to me far after their closing time.

 

Thank you.

Has anyone had one pedal hang up?

Haven't driven it in a while but if I recall one time driving I stepped on the brake and I could t push in the clutch. I did look under the Jeep and tried to move the pedals side to side but couldn't.

Thanks again for the update.

Jim

Pics?


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Mine did that before tonight but I had that fix planned out for when I did the upgrade. That problem with the pedal hanging is related to one of two things. One, and the more unlikely is your tub is not sitting on the frame correctly. That is unlikely but not as uncommon as you might think.

Two, and the most common is the pedals get out of line on the shaft as they become worn. The fix has been covered on this forum but I can't seem to find it right now. Basically I rebuilt my whole shaft assembly but it is not needed to go that far, I just wanted to do it. People put washers in to fill in the empty space that allows the pedals to move around and bind up.


Hopefully someone will see the comments and link the fix

 

Here are some pics I promised. Sorry if they aren't the greatest but the pto winch shaft is in the way for a good side view underneath. You may notice the pedal end has been cut off for the clutch. The end is still on the shaft to keep things located but I have a swinging clutch pedal I installed with the engine and transmission (cable operated, from the same vehicle) 23 or so years ago.
Lots of times the reason why the pedals hang up like that is simple rust. They don't get lubed like they should and so rust builds up causing them to hang up. Wear on the parts as mentioned above is another reason.

I mis-remembered, I had to drill 4 holes not 3.



A pic of the back of the bracket showing the pedal as well


A side/bottom pic. You can see the pto shaft in the foreground



The reservoir's. I made a bracket so I could use a couple existing bolts coming through the firewall that mount the clutch pedal. No extra holes that way. You could just as easily mount them to the fender, or pretty much anywhere they will be upright and you can route the feed hoses away from moving parts and exhaust.

 

Last time I was under it the channels were crushed some. The PO used it on his farm and he was 80 yr old.

 

Thank you very much for the pictures

I would really like to see the clutch setup if it's not to much trouble.

Just can't get the concept in my head to do that mod.

Thanks again for all the help,
Jim

 

One thing I would like to add, if you do the R&P kit whatever you do, do not follow the instructions for mounting the bracket. The technique described does not work and you end up with extra holes in your frame because you have redrill it. Just get a piece of card board make a template and use that while the bracket is in the correct position for a reference

 

Thank you -

 

That's funny, I followed the directions and as you can see I have no extra holes in my frame. Nor did I slot or oversize the holes
Worked just fine for me and several others I know of


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